Seoul in the evening
Collected by Joseph Cyr, AFAR Local Expert
This caffeinated capital is non-stop: colors and tastes come at you in a continual cacophony...with the occasional quiet moment...One of NE Asia's largest and most fascinating cities.
Chungmuro 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Seoul is full of street food, and open-air markets and sidewalk stalls abound. But wander the avenues at night, and warm light from under tarps beckons; it's the poh-jahng-mah-chah. Literally meaning "covered/tented wagon," these are an...
Euljiro 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Arguably Seoul's most memorable and most exotic street snack, buhn-deh-ghee (silkworm larvae) are pure protein. If you've ever had boiled peanuts, they're quite similar! They're a snacking ritual in the Korean capital, so sooner or later, if you...
Deoksugung-gil, Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Bukchon, the historic neighborhood between Gyeongbok-gung and Changdeok-gung palaces in the heart of Seoul, is the home of buk-chon son mandu, which translates as "handmade dumplings." Even though this is a Seoul chain restaurant, the namesake...
Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Tired, but determined not to succumb to jet-lag on my first evening in Seoul in almost two decades, I went for a walk in the Bukchon neighborhood...no backpack, no camera--just my iPhone in my pocket. One of the first things that caught my eye was...
Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In the middle of a metropolitan area of twenty million, Seoul's historic Bukchon neighborhood has kept a traditional village feel. "Hanok"—traditional courtyard houses, with upswept tile roofs and latticed sliding doors—line the hilly streets....
78 Namdaemun-ro, Myeongdong 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In the Korean capital's Myeongdong district, you're not limited to 'Seoul-food;' you can also taste distinctive dishes from Jeonju city, in the country's fertile Southwest. Go to "Go-gung" (pronounce: goh-goong) restaurant. The restaurant's...
513 Yeongdong-daero, Samseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
During my last stay in Seoul, I spent most of my time in the historic heart of the city north of the Han river. I did take a Sunday afternoon, though, to walk around the Gangnam district—the chic high rise–dominated neighborhood south of the...
종로51 종로타워 17층, 공평동 Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
One of the most distinctive buildings in central Seoul is the 33-story Jongno Tower, a triangular glass and steel tower topped with an oval floating above seven stories of emptiness. Across the street is the traditionally reconstructed...
Cheonggyecheon, Jongno 5(o).6(yuk)ga-dong, Seoul
Chong-gye-cheon stream and park is a several-miles-long ribbon of pedestrian tranquility in the heart of Seoul. For decades, an elevated expressway ran through the heart of Seoul. The air pollution and congestion made people forget that a stream...
99 Yulgok-ro, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
I spent the better part of a summer afternoon on the grounds of Changdeok-gung Palace, wandering the old courtyards and lush gardens of one of the most visited sites in Seoul. Originally built in 1405 as a secondary palace, this complex served as...
55 Ujeongguk-ro, Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
A window-display near the Jogye-sa temple in central Seoul...now, THAT's a paper lantern! Buddhist temples were not allowed in Seoul during the years of the Joseon (Yi) dynasty (1392-1910); the new rulers were suspicious of clerical involvement in...
South Korea, 서울특별시 Jongno-gu, Gahoe-dong, 계동길 37
On my first evening back in Seoul, on my first visit in almost twenty years, I could hardly believe I was in the middle of a metropolitan area of over twenty million people. I was staying in the Buk-chon neighborhood, in a 'hanok'--one of the...
Myeongdong 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
"Oh-deng" is a street-food classic found on the streets of Seoul. It's kind of hard to describe: formed crab-cakes, or white fish sausage (sounds weird, tastes great!). Late one night in Seoul's Myongdong district (think Times Square meets the...
Chungmuro 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Myeongdong is a dizzying shopping mecca where every major Korean cosmetic and fashion brand has a store—or several. The Korea Tourism Organization estimates that more than 1 million visitors pass through the area every day. Anchored by the...
81-3 Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
If you're planning a trip to Korea in the fall, mark your calendar--October 9th is "Hangul Day"--one of the few national holidays in the world to celebrate a writing system. Beneath the 20-ton bronze statue of King Sejong the Great--who...
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