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Viale della Stazione di Ostia Antica, 00119 Roma RM, Italy
Hop on the commuter train at Lido Station (next to the Piramide Metro stop) and make the 25-minute trip to Ostia Antica, Rome's ancient port town and administrative center. The teeming city of up to 100,000 residents is relatively well preserved...
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Largo della Salara Vecchia, 5/6, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Roman Forum is where ancient Rome began. The sprawling archaeological park gives us just a hint of what the Roman Empire once was—a dominant and diverse society. The Forum itself was the political, social, religious, and commercial focal...
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Via di San Gregorio, 30, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Palatine Hill was home to an early Roman settlement and had major significance for the city's history. Legend states that Romulus founded Rome on that hill in 753 B.C.E., and Romans even maintained a cult site sacred to the founding father for...
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Piazza del Campidoglio, 1, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Capitoline Museums house a collection of ancient sculptures in a pair of buildings designed by Michelangelo in the mid-16th century. The architecture on its own is stunning, but add to that brilliant frescoes and museum halls decked out with...
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Piazza Navona, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Even with Segway tours rolling through and street performers loudly competing for audiences, the 15th-century Piazza Navona somehow retains a shred of grace and elegance in modern Rome. Calm Renaissance palazzi face the piazza’s centerpiece,...
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00120, Vatican City
Painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512, the frescoes on the Sistine Chapel ceiling are considered some of the finest art ever produced. These religious paintings include nine scenes from the Book of Genesis, of which The Creation of Adam is...
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Located across the Tiber River from the Centro Storico, Trastevere is a kaleidoscope of ivy-covered buildings, complicated Italian history, and bombastic nightlife. The heart of the neighborhood is Piazza Santa Maria, a large square where street...
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Via dei Chiavari, 34, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
One of Rome's best bakeries and among the city's most historic institutions, Antico Forno Roscioli is a family-run business. Depending on the time of day, you might find patriarch Marco or his son Pierluigi hard at work. There are a variety of...
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Vicolo del Gallo, 14, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This historic bakery in Campo de' Fiori serves good pizza bianca and excellent pizza rossa, as well as assorted slices, cookies, and pastries. The neighboring annex across the alley (Vicolo del Gallo 14) serves sandwiches and baked goods. Drop in...
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Via Guido Reni, 4/a, 00196 Roma RM, Italy
Maxxi, Rome’s first major contemporary art museum, cost 150 million and took renowned architect Zaha Hadid 10 years to complete. The result—a vast, bold space with exhibits on architecture and art—proves that modern Rome can produce masterpieces,...
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Via degli Specchi, 6, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This pub, owned by the Piedmont-based Baladin brewing company and Lazio's own Birra del Borgo, opened in September 2009 and was quickly canonized as the best place to drink Italian beers in Rome. There are over 120 labels to choose from, ranging...
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Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, 4, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
During the late 19th and most of the 20th centuries, the Testaccio district hummed with activity from the sprawling slaughterhouse. Thought animal slaughter was moved away from Testaccio in 1975, most of the building has been preserved. In recent...
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Via Ostiense, 106, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
Tired of the crowds? Go to the Centrale Montemartini in Ostiense. No lines. In fact, no other people. At all. Usually I am the only one there. Wander the ancient Roman sculptures and extraordinary mosaic floor set in the former power plant;...
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Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Roscioli family, famous for their nearby bakery Antico Forno Roscioli, opened this restaurant/wine bar/gourmet shop in 2005. Book several days in advance for lunch or dinner and be sure to request a ground floor table near the back of the...
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Piazza degli Zingari, 4, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
A 10-minute walk from the Forum, Gelateria Fatamorgana sells Maria Spagnuolo’s edible works of art. Each flavor is made from all natural ingredients, without chemical additives or artificial flavors, and many are lactose free. Spagnuolo’s...
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Piazza della Minerva, 42, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome's center, it's a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi...
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Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Quietly inhabiting the lovely Via dei Banchi Vecchi, Il Goccetto (not to be confused with the Italian pro-marijuana organization by the same name) is a secret hidden in plain sight: a cozy, wood-paneled wine bar with 18th-century ceiling...
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Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
Every Saturday and Sunday on Via S. Teodoro, tucked just off Circus Maximus, Rome's best farmer's market takes place. It's run by Campagna Amica, an Italy-wide organization that promotes local, sustainable agriculture—so all of the products sold...
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00184 Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
No matter how many postcards you've seen of Rome's iconic Colosseum, you just don't get it until you pass beneath its crumbling arches. Built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E., the huge amphitheater held 50,000 spectators and marked its...
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Piazza di S. Luigi de' Francesi, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
In 1589, the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi became the official church of Rome’s French community, and with true Bourbon flair, the church's decorations are a celebration of France's power and wealth, with gilded stucco, lavish...
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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Via Beniamino Franklin, 00118 Roma RM, Italy
The "new" Testaccio Market opened in a modern building next to the Ex-Mattatoio (former slaughterhouse) in the summer of 2012. The space was much larger than the original market, which meant there was plenty of room to grow new businesses,...
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Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
The Galleria Borghese, which is set in the large public Villa Borghese park, was born in the 16th century as the collection of Scipione Borghese, a powerful Cardinal and nephew to Pope Paul V. The Cardinal amassed an enormous number of ancient...
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Lungotevere dei Mellini, 35, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Altar of Peace, also known by its ancient name, Ara Pacis, is a 1st century BC monument embellished with marble reliefs. The structure's carved stone surfaces depict religious processions and allegories, all of which glorify the family and...
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Piazza di Pasquino, 69, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The newest addition to Rome’s growing number of boutique luxury accommodations opened in central Rome in March 2015 on a square just off the exuberantly Baroque Piazza Navona. The suites-only hotel is the work of hoteliers Emanuele Garosci...
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Via Dandolo, 51, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Via Dandolo, an early 20th-century street, winds its way up the slopes of Rome’s Janiculum Hill from Trastevere to Monteverde Vecchio. Along its sinewy path are villas built for elite families during the 1920s and ’30s. Leafy gardens...
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Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Armando Al Pantheon is right around the corner from the Pantheon, but it feels a world away. The interior is small, warm and inviting. They have many classic Italian dishes and a few specials of their own. The wine list is reasonable and...
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Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Gabriele Bonci's famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried...
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Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Roma RM, Italy
Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome's best trattoria,...
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Via Evangelista Torricelli, 2/12, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
In spite of being utterly delicious and in a popular destination for dining, La Torricella manages to fly under the radar. A long-established fixture in Testaccio, this pizzeria-ristorante serves delectable, consistently delicious food in a...
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Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Deep fried globe artichokes likely have their origins in the Jewish Ghetto. Yet you will find this regional specialty on menus all over the city, including at Flavio al Velavevodetto where carciofi alla giudia (Jewish style artichokes) are only...
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This 1st-century wonder will take your breath away. Not only is it one of the city's most ancient sites, it's been in continuous use for centuries. Originally built as a private temple, today it is a Catholic church and the resting place of...
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Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
One of my most memorable stops in Rome was of course the Piazza San Pietro and with it, the Basilica, and Vatican City. This huge square was laid in 1657 and holds the 400,000 worshippers and visitors who crowd this vast area in times of...
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00120, Vatican City
No, you are still not allowed to take photographs of the Sistine Chapel while visiting Vatican City. Yes, I did it anyway just to try and capture the awesomeness of the accomplishment by good ol' Michelangelo. Like so many incredible artistic...
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Via del Pigneto, 105, 00176 Roma RM, Italy
This small craft beer pub and shop in the heart of Pigneto specializes in ultra hoppy American and European beers, as well as sour ales. There is a nice selection of whiskeys, as well. You can drink around 6 beers on tap or buy bottles to take...
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Largo Marguerite Yourcenar, 1, 00010 Tivoli RM, Italy
The 2nd-century Roman emperor Hadrian spent much of his 20-year reign traveling through his empire, absorbing architectural inspiration from Greece to Egypt. His vision for a luxury villa was realized in Tivoli, a Roman suburb, where he...
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Piazza del Duomo, 26, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy
It was love at first sight. Everything about Orvieto is charming, with the exception of the Duomo (Cathedral) which more appropriately would be described as elegant and grand, especially the facade. Originally a thriving center of Etruscan...
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01016 Tarquinia, VT, Italy
A half-day visit to Tarquinia, close to the coast and 92 km north of Rome, offers a unique opportunity to escape the crowds of tourists and view exceptional ancient murals and artifacts. Tarquinia was one of the 12 cities of ancient Etruria, the...
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Piazza Trento, 5, 00019 Tivoli RM, Italy
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When Cardinal Ippolito d'Este narrowly lost the Papal election, he assuaged his frustrations by embellishing a spectacular villa in Tivoli, a village in the hills east of Rome. The villa itself was brilliantly outfitted in 16th century frescoes,...
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Via dei Biscottari, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza In the area of the Norman palace, near the market, there are still some little medievalbotteghe(shops) below the level of the palace. Via dei Biscottari is where they used to make the pastries and cookies for the king. There is...
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Piazza Indipendenza, 90129 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza Within the Palace of the Normans, there’s a chapel of the kings. “It’s sumptuous,” Fabrizia says, “all covered with mosaics. It’s like getting inside a golden box of jewelry.” Piazza del Parlamento 1 This story appeared in the...
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Via dei Benedettini, 20, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza This 12th-century Norman church [St. John of the Hermits] has five Arab-inspired red domes. It’s a narrow little church with a garden filled with jasmine and succulents— a very peaceful place. Via dei Benedettini 3 This story...
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Piazza Verdi, 90138 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza Palermo’s opera house, built in the 19th century and inspired by ancient Greek ruins in Sicily, is the largest in Italy and the third largest in Europe. You can catchRigoletto,La Traviata—I love all of Verdi and Puccini; I’m...
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Piazza Cappuccini, 1, 90129 Palermo PA, Italy
Walking through Palermo you get the feeling that much hasn't changed in the last hundred years or so. That is especially true at the Capuchin Catacombs. The catacombs contain skeletons and mumified bodies of various citizens of Palermo. The...
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Via generale Magliocco, 19, 90141 Palermo PA, Italy
Seeing the locals and businessmen slowly sauntering in for their espresso or lunch, you get a sense that these locals don't realise what great food they have at their fingertips. Whether you are after a coffee, sweets, something for lunch or a...
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Piazza Marina, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy
Perhaps my favorite thing about Palermo, aside from the colors, the people, the life and the beach, is a plate full of panelle, fried chick pea fritters, for lack of a better term. In Piazza Marina, I usually head to Nni Franco U' Vastiddaru or...
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98050 Lipari, Province of Messina, Italy
Pure heaven! Go to the Aeolian Islands off the Northern coast of Sicily.
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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza

At her cooking school in Regaleali, Fabrizia Lanza (right) learns from Sister Lidia how to make zuccata, a traditional candied squash dessert.

Name:Fabrizia Lanza
Age: 49
Hometown:Palermo, Italy
Occupaton:Formerly an art historian...

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90010 Ficarazzi PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza This central square is famous for carts that serve Sicilian antipasti in front of the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, which has amazing 18th-century sculptures, perhaps the most extravagant art Sicily produced at the time. Via dell’...
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Southern Europe
by Fabrizia Lanza People line up at seven or eight in the morning to order a big dish of soup made with tripe and intestines. You can getpanelle(pancakes made from chickpeas) hot from the vendor. They also sell the most famouspanino—spleen stuffed...
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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza Palermo’s art museum, which houses medieval and modern works, is around the corner from the Mura delle Cattive (Wall of Widows). It’s in a well-preserved palace of the 15th-century Gothic Catalan epoch—we belonged to Spain at the...
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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza A restaurant built within Palermo’s ancient walls, where chariots were once housed. Under these enormous vaults there is a library, a garden, and a bar—it’s a fantastic place for drinks. Foro Umberto I This story appeared in the...
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Piazza Europa, 38, 91023 Favignana TP, Italy
Favignana is the largest of the Egadi Islands off the western coast of Sicily, the butterfly shaped island is small enough to easily explore by bicycle or moped. Stay: Cas’almare , a small boutique hotel adjacent to the sea and an ancient roman...
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Via Teatro Greco, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy
The Island of Sicily has many wonders. Taormina is a popular resort town on Monte Tauro and has an old Greek Theatre that is still used for performances. The sitting has awesome views of the coast and Mount Etna. I would like to go back and actual...
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Mt Etna, 95031 Adrano, Province of Catania, Italy
To see Sicily properly, you need to rent a car and drive. This is not a problem until you get to Mt. Etna......very curvy steep incline so here is where we had an Italian guide drive us(strongly recommended). At the rest area(before the cable...
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97100 Ragusa, Province of Ragusa, Italy
We drove into Ragusa - Sicily in the late afternoon, walked the cobbled streets, devoured a locally made nougat gelato and on the drive back down from the old town were met with the beautiful sight of the traditional houses lit up by their...
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Via della Giudecca, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
Stumbling across a place and people whilst on your travels is one of the major drawcards that keep the travel bug alive. This was one such moment. Walking the old streets of Ortigia, we came across Laborotorio Pupi, run by the Vaccaro-Maurceri...
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Via Etnea, 270, 95100 Catania CT, Italy
I keep coming back to Sicily for more. This time brings me to Catania, the more overlooked of the island's two large cities. Its unique charm and beauty merits an overnight visit for sure. Spinella, a local institution, attracts Catanians and...
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Corso Umberto I, 159, 97015 Modica RG, Italy
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is has been at this location since 1880 when the father of Francesco Bonajuto introduced fine sweets of Arabian and Spanish origin to the Modica locals. Upon entering this beautiful nook of a store which happens to be the...
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Contrada Scavuzzo, 92010 Realmonte AG, Italy
With a love for the prints of Massimo Vitalli, a visit to the Scala de Turchi in Realmonte, Sicily was a must do for me. Seeing the sheer scale of the cliff face along with its stark whiteness was something I will not forget. We set up a picnic...
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Via Pardo, 29, 95131 Catania CT, Italy
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Make a meal of fresh sea urchin at Osteria Antica Marina among the bustle of the fishmongers in Catania. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image courtesy of Osteria Antica Marina
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Contrada Barbaro, 91013 Calatafimi TP, Italy
The Greek theater at Segesta may not be as large as the theater in Taormina, but it certainly doesn't disappoint in terms of wow factor. It also doesn't have the ridiculously crowded and touristy atmosphere of Taormina, with busloads of...
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98030 Castelmola ME, Italy
High in the mountain above Taormina, a similar village appears, without the crush of tourists. Castelmola is a beautiful little place with chessboard paving, tiny artisanal shops, and peaceful bars dotted throughout the network of courtyards and...
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90015 Cefalù, Province of Palermo, Italy
With the abundance of Sicilian produce (think lemons, oranges, eggplant, tomatoes from Mt Etna) - it is no wonder that the early morning markets are overwhelmed with options. Grab your bags and head out early to get the best variety --- and make...
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Vulcano, 98055 Lipari, Province of Messina, Italy
What’s that smell? It’s the entire island of Vulcano, the Aeolian Island most famous for its clumpy, mineral-rich mud baths and healing hot springs. Laghetto di Fanghi is the name of the famed mud bath closest to the dock. A massive pit of greyish...
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Contrada Regaleali, 90020 Sclafani Bagni PA, Italy
Regaleali is one of five estates run by the Tasca d’Almerita family. Call ahead to book a vineyard tour. Snacks such as estate-made ricotta accompany the wine tasting. Visitors can stay overnight in the estate’s baglio, a farm villa. Villa Tasca,...
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Via dei Mille, 4, 95030 San Pietro Clarenza CT, Italy
Sicilian vintner Arianna Occhipinti enrolled in RAGUSA winemaking school at the age of 18. Since then, the 32-year-old has gained notoriety for the natural wines she produces from her vineyards in Vittoria, on the southeastern tip of Sicily. Her...
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SP79 Km 91, 92013 Contrada Passo di Gurra, Menfi AG, Italy
The cookbook author Judy Witt Francini offers weeklong culinary tours in Sicily that include cooking classes at this renowned winery. From $4,000 per person. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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92017 Sambuca di Sicilia, AG, Italy
Brothers Gunther and Klaus Di Giovanna oversee the vineyards their great-grandfather first planted in 1860. Tours are by appointment and include a tasting of the estate’s wine and olive oil. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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90027 Petralia Sottana, Province of Palermo, Italy
One of Sicily’s most historic producers of nero d’Avola, Feudo Montoni estate dates to the 16th century. Its Vrucara wine, made by 44-year-old winemaker Fabio Sireci, is considered one of the best expressions of the grape. This appeared in the May...
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91010 San Vito Lo Capo TP, Italy
In the height of summer, this national park is swarmed with Sicilians worshiping the sun and sea. To get to the beach coves you hike a hot and dusty path along the mountain cliffside. As we ascended the craggy cliff down to the second cove, we...
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Via Fatebenefratelli, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
A. Caraceni is often described as the very best in Milan when it comes to tailors. At this shop, you'll only find high-quality suits, impeccable cuts, and polished styles. The Caraceni tailoring legacy goes back more than a century, when the...
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Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan, Italy
Style and design filter into day-to-day life in Milan, but Women’s Fashion Week (September 19–25) is the height of the city’s creativity. The event, staged by fashion’s biggest labels, also spurs local restaurants and galleries to show off their...
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Galleria del Corso, 4, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
For the last decade, Peck was the only place in town to stock up on the best of the best Italian foodstuffs. Now there’s a new gourmet go-to: a sprawling emporium in the basement level of the Excelsior department store. Choose from thousands of...
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Via Brera, 28, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
The Pinacoteca Brera is Milan's public painting gallery with an enviable collection of early Renaissance to late Baroque paintings by the very best of 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Though Bramante, Rubens, Raphael, Piero della Francesca and...
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Piazza Pio XI, 2, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
The Ambrosiana Library is an oasis for book lovers. Founded in 1609, the library contains over 800,000 books and 35,000 manuscripts, including writings by Dante and Leonardo da Vinci's Codex Atlanticus. The pinacoteca art gallery is a treasure as...
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Via Palestro, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
GAM bridges the gap between Baroque and Modern art with a collection of Italian and European artwork from the 18th to the 20th century. Van Gogh, Manet, Cezanne and Gaugin hang with Balla, Boccioni, Canova and Segantini. Best to make it double...
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Via Guglielmo Marconi, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
The Museo del Novecento (Museum of the 20th century) is a visual lesson in one century of Italian art history. Housed is the 1930s Palazzo dell'Arengario by Rationalist architects Piero Portaluppi and Giovanni Muzio. The Novecento also houses an...
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Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
The Sforza name is well known even to those of us not intimately familiar with Italian history. Originally built in the 15th century, this massive citadel was at one time one of the largest in Europe and even today you can just imagine the...
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Piazza di Santa Maria delle Grazie, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Besides the fashion and the Duomo, another great reason to visit Milan is the famous Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci, located at the Santa Maria delle Grazie. It's better you reserve the tickets ahead of time since they only have limited time...
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Largo Isarco, 2, 20139 Milano MI, Italy
Fondazione Prada reopens its Milan exhibition space in a 205,000 square foot space designed by OMA (by Rem Koolhaas). Prada always has the most engaging shows-- getting the best of contemporary art.
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Corso Magenta, 15, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Sometimes called "Milan's Sistine Chapel" because of its profusely--and beautifully-- decorated walls and ceilings, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is well worth a visit. The Renaissance paintings commissioned by the Sforza family (the primary...
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Via Giulio Cesare Procaccini, 4, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Fabbrica del Vapore is an easygoing arts center in Milan, occupying an old steam factory: a place where many different exhibitions, performances, and casual social gatherings take place year-round. It is best to check the website for specific...
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Via Antoine Watteau, 7, 20125 Milano MI, Italy
Leoncavallo is both a cultural center and a concept. The buildings lining the run-down road are covered in amazing art by epic artists and upcoming writers. During the day, you'll find photographers documenting the work or shooting for fashion...
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Via Neera, 24, 20141 Milano MI, Italy
Artist Dan Flavin's last installation is the Church of Santa Maria Annuciata in Chiesa Rossa, fondly known as simply Chiesa Rossa. Flavin's light installation is a technicolor dream of electric hues across the main nave and central apse.
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Via Giorgio Jan, 15, 20129 Milano MI, Italy
In the 1930s, architect Piero Portaluppi was the toast of the town, designing the most innovative and beautiful houses and buildings in Milan. Walking through Casa Boschi di Stefano, you find a great example of early twentieth century Italy, from...
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Via Privata Cuccagna, 2, 20135 Milano MI, Italy
Country kitchen and slow food oasis in the middle of Milan. This is the place where you will want to have your Sunday, especially if the weather is good and you can get an outdoor table. Cuisine plays homage to Lombardy's best and favorites, using...
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Via Savona, 50, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
An interesting place to have lunch with a friend, talking about work, reading a newspaper, or sipping very good wine. Chef Kokichi Takahashi elaborates on the Italian food culture. Taste fresh ravioli and oven-roasted cockerel or omori chocolate...
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Via S. Pietro All'Orto, 9, 20100 Milano MI, Italy
Salsamenteria Di Parma is a unique restaurant that specializes in cheese and ham. With light jazz music playing in the background and a relaxed atmosphere, this spot is perfect for lunch!
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Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 286, 20142 Milano MI, Italy
The café Erba Brusca sits on a plot of land at the city’s edge, where concrete blocks meet grassy meadows. Italian staples such as buttery white polenta and roasted speziata sausage are made with herbs and greens grown on-site. Reserve a table on...
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Tucked in an alley near the historic downtown you'll find this small restaurant serving traditional, regional dishes (at a great price especially for the area). With open-air courtyard seating surrounded by vines, it makes for a relaxing lunch....
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Via dell'Orso, 4, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Il Refettorio Simplicitas is my favorite place to eat when I visit Milan. The executive chef, Giovanni Ruggieri, uses simple, fresh, and local ingredients to consistently turn out powerful flavors you never knew you always wanted to taste. Echoing...
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Vicolo dei Lavandai, Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
A pleasant way to spend an evening in Milan is to stroll along the Naviglio Grande, a 12th century canal in the south of town. The warehouses along the towpath are now home to lively restaurants and bars. I recommend El Brellin. The second floor...
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Via Ponte Vetero, 21, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Every city has an eatery that’s a mainstay for shoppers, and in Milan, it’s the tony Brera neighborhood restaurant Convivium. House specialties include complimentary rosemary flatbread, four-cheese pizza, and sea saltencrusted sea bass for two. ...
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Piazza Tito Minniti, 20159 Milano MI, Italy
Isola is Milan's sleeper neighborhood because of its great location, hip shops and local vibe. It is also a great area to hang out in because, well, it feels like a neighborhood. Weekend street markets, clever graffiti, cute boutiques, artisanal...
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Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 34, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
While few in number, Milan's canals can be charming. Naviglio Grande, the largest, is my favorite to walk along. Lined by shops, outdoor cafes and bars, there is life alongside the water anytime of day. If you're lucky you'll catch the Antique...
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Via Alessandro Stradella, 4/A, 20129 Milano MI, Italy
This wine bar in the Buenos Aires neighborhood is a wonderful example of Italy's drinking culture—reasonably priced, carefully chosen, enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Here you can also take a bottle home for under 3, if you like what you tried in the...
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The Milan Cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a site that’s been holy since the time of the Romans, but it wasn’t until the early 19th century when the finishing touches were finally placed on this massive building. The Duomo is the fifth largest...
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Via Filodrammatici, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Designed by the great neoclassical architect Giuseppe Piermarini, the glorious interior is quite the opposite from its austere exterior. Acoustics are amazing, not only from the exemplary construction of the venue but also thanks to the perfect...
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Piazzale Angelo Moratti, 20151 Milano MI, Italy
Welcome to the hallowed walls of AC Milan. San Siro is the first and quite possibly only stadium in Italy to have a museum on its premises. For die hard red and black fans, this is only place you'll want to come to when you visit Milan. You get to...
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Via Paolo Sarpi, 30, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Considered by some as a Milan institution, Cantine Isole is a small wine bar/enoteca with a lot of history and great atmosphere. It's located in the Chinatown neighborhood, near Garibaldi station and the Isola neighborhood. Expect a lot of...
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Piazza Litta, 1, 21100 Varese VA, Italy
Don't let your eyes fool you. Villa Panza is a not just a gorgeous 18th-century estate. The villa and grounds host the spectacular Panza Collection, an amazing grouping of art from the 1960s through 1980s, with particular attention to American...
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Via Privata Adelchi, 5, 20131 Milano MI, Italy
Birrificio Lambrate is a well-kept secret in Milan, a city that generally prefers bitter cocktails to beer. The microbrewery opened its second gastropub just outside the city center last year. It’s already much loved for its free happy-hour...
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Piazza del Duomo, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni in 1865, and named after the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, an arching cast-iron dome of vaulted glass arcades covers the street connecting Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala. The Galleria is a popular...
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Gandria, 6978 Lugano, Switzerland
Behold Gandria! When my Airbnb host first suggested I visit Gandria I was a little unsure, mostly because of it's name. But boy was she right, this little village navigable exclusively by foot was so picturesque and quiet. Situated on a hill just...
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22021 Bellagio CO, Italy
45 minutes out of Milan is Lake Como. Add it to your side trip. Spend a week you will not run out of things to do. There are wonderful lake towns sprinkled all the way to Switzerland. You take one of the boats out of the city of Como and travel up...
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Bergamo, Province of Bergamo, Italy
The old town of Bergamo is a one in a lifetime experience to the visitor as it lies idly on the side of the hill. The labyrinth of paved small streets will take you to gorgeous squares, well preserved historical buildings, secret corners and small...
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Piazza del Duomo, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
The cathedral, usually called the Duomo, is Florence’s most recognizable building. You are able to catch glimpses of its magnificent red-tiled cupola from just about anywhere in the city center. Construction on the church...
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6 Lungarno Corsini, 50123 Florence FI, Italy
Escaping the crowds around Florence Cathedral one afternoon, I decided to wander along the Arno River and was rewarded with stunning views from the water's reflection. The picture highlights not only the clear, nearly symmetrical reflection cast...
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Via dei Tavolini, 19r, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
On a cool night in November, walking alone from an outdoor food market in the center of Florence, I decided to indulge my sweet tooth yet again. I stopped for a "snack," one that I would never eat just before dinner back home yet couldn't get...
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Via della Scala, 18, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy
Hundreds of years ago, at the height of Florence’s Renaissance heyday, visitors to this cultural capital wouldn’t have stayed in the kinds of luxury hotels that now line its picturesque streets. Rather, the well-heeled would have come...
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Via Baccio Bandinelli 98, 50142 Florence, FI, Italy
You know the daydream where you’re in a colorful vintage car zipping along cypress-lined Tuscan roads that line the Arno? Well, here it is. You turn off onto a gravel path ending at a sunny complex of restored 19th-century Italian factories...
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Via Ricasoli, 58/60, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
Most people head to this ex-art school to ogle the world’s most famous nude statue. Michelangelo’s David was carved from a single five-meter-high block of milky-white marble in 1504 and originally stood in Piazza della Signoria....
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Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy
When you visit the area of the Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Republica in Florence, don't miss this interesting attraction. From Piazza della Signoria, walk towards Piazza della Republica, and on the left side, you'll see Piazza del...
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Via Lambertesca, 18/r, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
You can’t visit Florence without indulging in ice cream once at the very least, but it’s not so easy to find the real deal. Carapina, gelateria of choice for cognoscenti (but often overlooked by tourists), is located a stone’s throw from the Ponte...
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Greve in Chianti, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
One of our favorite drives during our May trip to Italy was through the Chianti region in Tuscany, like this road outside Greve. It doesn't take that long to drive through the region - we did it in an afternoon and evening, stopping for an amazing...
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Southern Europe
Our last day in Chianti, Rachael & I headed out in the Fiat to explore a couple more places on our list. One of these places was I Sodi, a local, family-owned winery very close to the Bed & Breakfast where we stayed. We turned off the main road...
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Via XX Luglio, 11, 50022 Panzano In Chianti FI, Italy
Dario Cecchini is the most famous butcher in Italy and is probably the only one who recites Dante while carving up his carcasses. His small shop on the outskirts of the medieval village of Panzano is a Mecca for carnivores seeking quality meat...
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Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
Ideally you'd have a whole day to appreciate the world’s foremost collection of Renaissance paintings, housed in the 16th-century headquarters of the Medici court. But for those with less time, highlights include the three great...
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Piazza S. Croce, 16, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
The Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce, with its striped green-and-white marble facade, dates from about 1294. Inside are the tombs of many celebrated early Florentines, including Dante, Michelangelo and Machiavelli. Among the many art treasures...
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Piazza Pitti, 1, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
The Boboli Gardens are a green oasis in the midst of Florence’s stony Renaissance architecture. Laid out on the hillside behind the Pitti Palace, this is a wonderland of fountains and statues, formal gardens, and secret lawns. Stroll along...
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Via delle Porte Sante, 34, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
Most people who visit Florence know that walking to Piazzale Michelangelo is a must. However, fewer people know that walking a little higher to the old church of San Miniato al Monte is an even better experience. Amble down the Arno River to Viale...
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53100 Siena, Province of Siena, Italy
It is so easy to get lost here, and to find yourself. I walked on cobbled stones through a quiet neighbourhood - every turn looks like a postcard.
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Str. di Certosa, 82/86, 53100 Siena SI, Italy
There is an intimate hotel in the hills of Tuscany near Siena called Certosa di Maggiano. It is pure magic. Tranquil and filled with old Italian charm, this is a place to go and chill out. Strada di Certosa 82/86, 39/0577-28-81-80. Rene Redzepi...
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Piazza del Campo, 1, 53100 Siena SI, Italy
During my time in Siena, I learned of the 17 contradas that divide this small city. It is hard to imagine that in city of this size, there were originally 59 contradas in the Middle Ages when they were established for military purposes. Over time,...
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Il Campo, 53100 Siena SI, Italy
Considered one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares, the Piazza del Campo—or, simply, Il Campo—has been at the heart of life in Siena since it began as a marketplace and meeting spot for the area’s villages; the...
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53100 Siena, Province of Siena, Italy
Each spring as a child, I looked forward to the annual Derby Day party in our family backyard when my parents’ friends donned odd hats and downed mint julips. Somehow, I thought Il Palio was going to bring back childhood memories, but the Kentucky...
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Piazza del Duomo, 8, 53100 Siena SI, Italy
The floor of the Cathedral of Siena, 'the most beautiful... largest and magnificent... that ever was made' (Giorgio Vasari) worth a visit by sure, believe me! Every year I come back there when it is open, two months a year from the week after the...
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Via S. Pietro, 29, 53100 Siena SI, Italy
Active from the 13th to 15th centuries and considered an influence on the pre-Renaissance movement, the Sienese School of painting is identifiable by its themes—always religious, and usually with a focus on Biblical miracles—and its signature...
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Piazza Antelminelli, 55100 Lucca LU, Italy
Dedicated to St. Matthew, Lucca’s beautiful cathedral was built in typical Romanesque style in the 12th century and has a curious asymmetrical, tiered façade covered with fantastically complex carvings. The dim interior houses one of the town’s...
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55100 Lucca, Province of Lucca, Italy
There is magic in the cobblestone streets of Lucca, Italy. Surrounded by its original city walls, this enchanting city in Tuscany is rich in history and has a casual, elegant feel. Sophisticated, older women in black suits and pink glasses ride...
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Via Sant'Andrea, 55100 Lucca LU, Italy
My husband and I visited Italy in May, and one of our favorite stops was the charming Tuscan town of Lucca. After wandering through the town for a few hours we decided to climb this tower, which offered a perfect view of Lucca from above. It's...
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Via del Monte alle Croci, 10, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
There are around 600 wines from all over Italy (and 50 by the glass) to choose from at this wood-panelled wine bar which has a pretty terrace overlooking the old city gate of San Miniato in the buzzy San Niccolò neighbourhood. Lunchtimes are good...
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Viale Manfredo Fanti, 4, 50137 Firenze FI, Italy
Soccer fans should try to catch home team Fiorentina (also called ‘Viola’ thanks to their purple shirts) on their own turf, the Artemio Franchi stadium. The season runs through the winter, and home games are normally held on alternative Sundays....
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53037 San Gimignano, Province of Siena, Italy
Forty-five minutes to an hour away from Florence awaits the medieval hilltop town of San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bordered by 13th-century walls and featuring a triangular central square lined with historic houses, the town is...
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Piazza del Duomo, 56126 Pisa PI, Italy
Pisa’s famous leaning tower (the campanile of the adjacent Duomo) is part of the Piazza del Duomo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that also includes the Duomo, baptistery and cemetery. Begun in 1173, the tower began to lean almost immediately thanks...
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Arno, Italy
I knew Pisa would be crowded with Leaning-Tower-gawkers. I, of course, was one of them. But as evening fell, I was amazed at how quiet the banks of the Arno were, just a few blocks away. This trip to Italy was the 'last hurrah' of my...
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The Ponte dell'Accademia is one of four bridges that span the Grand Canal, and will get you quickly from San Marco to the labyrinthine Dorsoduro neighborhood. Originally built in 1854 out of steel, the current wooden bridge was built in the 1930s...
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Piazza San Marco, 1, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
The Ponte dei Sospiri was given its English name by part-time Venice resident Lord Byron, who wrote in Childe Harold's Pilgrimage: "I stood in Venice on a Bridge of Sighs, a palace and a prison on each hand." Byron's travelogue nails it: When you...
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Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
An ornate 15th-century private palazzo has been transformed into a lavish hotel (below) that faces the Rialto market. Artworks from the 1600s meet 21st-century amenities in the 42 rooms and suites, many of which overlook the Grand Canal. Doubles...
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Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy
Near the base of the landmark Rialto Bridge, the historic Rialto Market is well worth a wander. Seek it out in the early morning when it provides an authentic local experience (and awesome social-media ops), with fishmongers hawking their fresh...
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Piazza San Marco, 328, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
St Mark's Basilica in Venice is one of my favourite buildings in Europe because it balances decadence with delicateness without being overbearing. St Peter's in Rome, for example, I thought was too much and not particularly beautiful. St Mark's on...
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Dorsoduro, 701-704, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
There's plenty of art in Venice, from the churches to the Scuoli to the Accademia. But when you just can't look at another Caravaggio, and even Titian hair doesn't move you any more, refresh yourself with a visit to Peggy's house. The renowned...
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Piazza San Marco, 57, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Italy’s oldest cafe has been serving coffee on a silver tray with a water chaser and a cookie since opening in 1720. Caffè Florian features a series of ornate gilded Neo-Baroque salons with frescoes and red velvet banquettes, as well...
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Fondamenta Vin Castello, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy
Two things you need to know about gondola rides in Venice: 1 - They're worth it. 2 - The price is agreed beforehand, and is standard. Knowing those two things, you can happily hop aboard this traditional Venetian mode of transport and relax,...
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Piazza San Marco, 1, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
This pink-marble waterfront edifice in Piazza San Marco dates back to the 14th century, when it was the residence and seat of government for the doges (rulers) of Venice. Today the ornate Byzantine- and Moorish-influenced Gothic Palazzo Ducale is...
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Fondamenta Nani, 992, 30123 Dorsoduro, Venezia VE, Italy
If you are in Venice, you will surely get familiar with local 'Spritz' (a fizzy, refreshing aperitif) and cicchetti, or small snacks. If you want to have a local experience, be sure not to miss Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi while walking around La...
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Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy
I had been skeptical of the Venetian gondola ride, thinking it too touristy and overpriced. Last summer, however, I discovered what is so special about this Venetian tradition. A gondola ride provides a unique view of Venice from the quiet...
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Calle degli Albanesi, 4250, 30122 Venezia VE, Italy
It's like the Venetians knew we'd end up lost and hungry. This mosaic placard (a tradition that dates to the Roman period) pointed us in the direction, and we wound up at a restaurant—Taverna dei Dogi, which has a relaxed atmosphere, and...
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Rio Terà de le Carampane, 1911, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy
$$$$
If you're looking for some of the most authentic and delicious seafood in Venice, pay a visit to Antiche Carampane. Located in an unassuming building a few minutes' walk from the Rialto Bridge, this trattoria is where the locals eat when they're...
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Every two years the world's best artists converge in Venice for a once in a lifetime exhibit of visual and performing arts. The festivities culminate with the glamorous Venice Film Festival. If you can't get a ticket to the Film Festival, do not...
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Rio Terà Foscarini, 909/A, 30123 Dorsoduro, Venezia VE, Italy
While traveling through Italy, my art history professor booked us students into religious colleges and convents. Wether it was to save money or because she thought osmosis would occur and our knowledge of Venetian Religious Art would be enhanced,...
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The Gallerie dell'Accademia is the place to see Venice through the eyes of centuries of famous Venetians. The museum has a huge collection of paintings from the Byzantine and Gothic eras through the Renaissance and into the 18th century (including...
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Dorsoduro, 2, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
Controlled by the François Pinault foundation, the same trust in charge of Christie's auction house, this is a museum-worthy gallery in the heart of Venice. Set inside Venice's old 17th-century customs house, it showcases Pinault's...
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Fondamenta Marco Giustinian, 8, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Have you been here? Tell us about it below!
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Piazza San Marco, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Since few areas within the city of Venice afford high perspectives of the entire city, take the elevator (no stairs) to the top of San Marco's Campanile in Piazza San Marco. You may have to put up with a few elbows to get a spot against...
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Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Built in 1525 as the family home of Doge Andrea Gritti, this antique-stocked palazzo has rooms with mosaic floors, hand-painted furniture, and panoramic views of the Grand Canal. Murano glass chandeliers and sconces light up the hotel that Ernest...
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Piazza Santa Fosca, 29, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy
Chef Cristian Angiolin heads up the kitchen at this Venetian lagoon institution, which is open year-round except for January and Tuesdays. The restaurant is no longer a part of the Cipriani franchise, which began in Venice and has since expanded...
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5174/B/517 Castello, Venezia, VE 30122, 30122 Venezia VE, Italy
One of the things Venice is best known for, after its gondolas and canals, is enchanting handmade masks—and mask shops are abound in the city. You can find any type of mask you might want: from feminine doll-inspired masks, to masculine bird masks...
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Calle Briati, 8b, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
The Abate Zanetti School of Glass has been home to masters of Murano glassblowing for 150 years, and today it provides an immersive experience into the island’s famed glass artistry. Located at the Glass Museum, a half-day program is offered...
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Calle del Scaleter, 2794, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy
Carlo Goldoni was born in Venice in 1707 and went on to be one of the Italy's most important playwrights. He spent many years living and working in Paris, where he died in 1793. Ca' Centani, the 15th century gothic palace acquired by Goldoni's...
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Dorsoduro 50, località Zattere, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
You find the Spazio Vedova art space along the tranquil Zattare esplanade, facing Giudecca Island. Historically, this art studio of Emilio Vedova was used to store salt and later boats. In the 1970s, Vedova saved the building from demolition....
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30015 Chioggia, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy

Some fresh octopus with polenta in Chioggia

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Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
Built in 1307, Giotto's Arena Chapel, aka Scorvegni Chapel, should not be missed when visiting the Veneto. In Padua, it is often overlooked, which can mean smaller crowds during certain times and seasons. After a video in English and Italian...
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Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova PD, Italy
This massive church was one of the most impressive in size, architecture, and collection of relics—for the art that is within and surrounding the building. Before you head inside, almost as an afterthought hidden in between kiosks selling St....
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Via B. Gamba, 6, 36061 Bassano del Grappa VI, Italy
Bassano del Grappa is the home of the famous liquor, a brandy made of the remains of the wine-making process. The Poli grappa is known for its golden color that, unlike the honey-infused varieties, comes from the oak barrels in which the drink is...
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Piazza Unità d'Italia, 34121 Trieste TS, Italy
In the center of Trieste, the capital of Italy’s Friuli–Venezia Giulia region, the vast Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia looks out over the deep, blue waters of the Gulf of Trieste. This elegant seafront square is bordered on three sides by ornate...
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Bologna, Metropolitan City of Bologna, Italy
Truly one of the most distinctive cities I've seen, Bologna is a treat. You hear about the food, you hear about the university, but there are just so many surprises around each corner. Just go, get lost...
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Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy
One of the best strolls through Venice begins in the neighborhood of Arsenale and finishes on the Island of Sant' Elena. Walk along the main drag of Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, a street full of shops and colourful local life, until it dead ends. Make...
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Murano, 30141 Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy
Famous for its long history of handblown glassmaking, Murano sits just a few minutes' ferry ride offshore in the Venetian Lagoon. The main attraction is the Glass Museum (Museo del Vetro), which recounts the history of glass through the centuries,...
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Cannaregio, 1337, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
Since 1930, the Marchi family has been importing rich, dark coffee beans from all over the world and roasting them in their quaint coffee shop in Venice's Cannaregio neighborhood. You can come in to shop for kilos of their black gold, which they...
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Calle Chibecchi, 521, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy
This tiny Venetian bacaro (bar) is so popular that many of its patrons don’t even make it inside. Instead, they cluster around the entrance drinking wine. Sample cicchetti (bar snacks) that the locals come for, especially the meatballs. Calle del...
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Via Baldassarre Galuppi, 221, 30142 Burano,Venezia VE, Italy
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Let the wind blow through your hair as you take a 30-minute vaporetto ride to Burano, an island in the lagoons of Venice. Known for its handmade lace and brightly-colored fishermen's homes, the island is free of the tourist crush of the rest of...
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Fondamenta di Santa Caterina, 3, 30142 Venezia VE, Italy
Begun by the family of winemaker Gianluca Bisol, who is famous for his prosecco, the menu at this Mazzorbo restaurant is focused on seasonal and local ingredients, much of which is grown right on the estate, which is located 35 minutes from the...
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Fondamenta Manin, 48, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Murano Island is best known for its numerous glassmakers, and their respective factories, shops and boutiques. The island is not itself a foodie destination, though there are exceptions, like the charming and exceptionally good restaurant,...
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Rione S. Andrea, 597, Piazzetta Vigo, 30015 Chioggia VE, Italy
Chioggia Island is like miniature version of Venice, and has one of the biggest fresh fish markets in Italy. Here, at the Hotel Grande Italia, is a well priced, elegant restaurant called Alle Baruffe Chizzotte, with a dinning room of about 100...
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Via Giudecca, 88, 30142 Burano, Venezia VE, Italy
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If you're planning to spend a full day island hoping from Murano, to Burano and on to Torcello, this is a good spot to stop for a fast lunch between islands.This Burano eatery is a no frills, straight forward trattoria that began as a small inn...
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Piazza Museo, 19, 80135 Napoli NA, Italy
This museum is probably the best one that you've never heard of (unfortunately). It has more Greco-Roman antiquities than I've seen in more well-known sites and its various treasures will keep you occupied while escaping summer's heat. Even if you...
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Riviera di Chiaia, 287, 80122 Napoli NA, Italy
Tiemaker Maurizio Marinella was 10 years old when his grandfather Eugenio and father, Luigi, began teaching him the essentials of tailoring. Now he oversees the waterfront salon, founded in 1914, that has created ties for style-conscious customers...
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Via Pignasecca, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
La Pignasecca is renowned for its abundance of cheese, pastry, and fresh fish stalls. As you shop, don’t miss snacking on the biscuits (tarrale) from Panificio Vincenzo Coppola. Open daily, Via Pignasecca. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples...
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Via Capodimonte, 19a, 80131 Napoli NA, Italy

This summer Eddy Bourdages, 33, and his mother, Mireille Anderson, 57, made their first trip to Italy. “We wanted to open an authentic Neapolitan wood oven pizzeria, so we went to the source,” says Bourdages. Anderson has owned L’Odyssée Bistro &...

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Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
A Naples legend well before Julia Roberts (in Eat, Pray, Love) gave it celebrity sheen, Da Michele was opened by the Condurro family in 1930. The only pizzas are marinara and margherita, and they are pure classics. 39/081-553-9204. Read Tom...
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Via S. Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli, 48, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Face it, you haven't really had 'real' pizza unless you jumped on a plane or train or any other type of transportation and got yourself to Napoli, in southern Italy and ordered a PIZZA! As Carly Simon sang for the James Bond movie, "Nobody Does It...
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Naples, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy
This painted angel was found by a church in downtown Naples. It was in a small alley and the facial expression resembles that of the Virgin Mary next to it. I have not seen very much street art at churches, but this piece seems to fit in with old...
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Via Chiaia, 1/2, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
The most famous café in town, this historic spot oozes period charm and maintains much of its original Belle Epoque decor. The main bar is for stand-up coffees and aperitivi, but there are several cozy salons for a sit-down treat. The terrace is a...
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Riviera di Chiaia, 269, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Antonella Rossi and her husband, Corrado, offer seasonal locavore takes on traditional Neapolitan fare such as green zucchini with squid sauteed in olive oil with lavender. 39/081-552-2266. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples."
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80056 Ercolano, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy
We were offered the chance to visit Pompeii or Herculaneum when we docked at Sorrento. People rave about Pompeii because it's absolutely huge and gives you a great sense of just how sophisticated Roman civilisation was. Herculaneum, by contrast,...
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80045 Pompei, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy
Pompeii was partially destroyed and buried under 20 ft of ash in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Pompeii was lost for about 1500 years until its initial rediscovery in 1599 and it continues to be excavated. The beautiful frescos and...
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Parco Archeologico di Paestum, Via Magna Grecia, 919, 84047 Paestum NA, Italy
This is a stunning place with few tourists. You find yourself transported back in time and can feel the lives of the ancient civilisations that came before. The museum is excellent and houses the findings but nothing is so wonderful as walking the...
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Vico Lungo del Gelso, 110/112, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
The quartieri spagnoli, though it really is the heart and soul of Naples, is a place where it’s hard to find a restaurant that stands out. Many are excellent and what distinguishes one from the other is usually a small price difference that pays...
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Naples, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy
While traveling through Naples, Italy, a local friend took me to one of his favorite hidden spots: an ancient cavern containing the bones of thousands of poor people and those who succumbed to major epidemics. Locals believe that the skulls have...
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Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy

New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps...

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Viale Cavalleggeri D'Aosta, 84, 80124 Napoli NA, Italy

Pescheria Mattiucci is a fish store by day that transforms itself into a small standing-room-only restaurant a few nights of the week. Mattiucci is an old family operation, but this place is the brainchild of a young son, Luigi Mattiucci. Luigi...

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Via San Carlo, 15, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
I just love the huge space and the glass ceiling of Galleria Umberto. It is located across from Teatro di San Carlo and despite its modern look, I was surprised to find out that it was built between 1887–1891. The Galleria was named for Umberto I,...
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Via S. Gregorio Armeno, 8, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Giuseppe Marco Ferrigno is one of the most known for its Neapolitan terracotta traditional characters. Started also as a family business since 1838, Ferrigno family passes the mastering of traditional terracotta figures from one generation to...
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80061 Marina di Puolo NA, Italy
My husband, our two daughters, and I rented a small boat with captain for the day to motor from Sorrento to Amalfi and back. We stopped in Amalfi for about an hour to do a bit of shopping including for ingredients for a picnic lunch. We got back...
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84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
One of the most beautiful coastlines in Italy is found along the 80km stretch of the Costiera Amalfitana. One of the most beautiful views of the cities along this stretch...is from the water. The centrally located ports of Amalfi and Positano...
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84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
In its ten miles from Positano to Amalfi, the celebrated corniche road known as the Amalfi Coast Drive clings to rugged cliffsides, weaving torturously in and out and up and down gorges, through lemon groves and olives, past whitewashed villages...
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84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Our Mediterranean cruise was unreal from start to finish, filled with beautiful places and countless memories. The Amalfi Coast is one place we will definitely make a return visit to - I could imagine spending a few weeks relaxing and exploring...