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Rome

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Via del Monte della Farina, 28, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
At Pizzeria Emma in central Rome, siblings Francesco and Ilaria Roscino have teamed up with gourmet gurus the Roscioli brothers to open Emma. There are deceptively light fried starters like rice croquettes, mozzarella-filled squash blossoms, and...
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This 1st-century wonder will take your breath away. Not only is it one of the city's most ancient sites, it's been in continuous use for centuries. Originally built as a private temple, today it is a Catholic church and the resting place of...
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Via dei Chiavari, 37, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
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Via della Stazione di S. Pietro, 14, 00165 Roma RM, Italy

A perfect schedule and trip to St. Peter's was thwarted on early Wednesday morning when I learned the Pope was giving mass. Without an invitation, I stood on the outskirts of fences and boundaries watching devotees rush in for the blessing. A kind...