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Rome 2015

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Via Claudia, 15, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
The Paolo Parisi egg has become an Italian status symbol. The perfect whites look like those of any other egg, but the Day-Glo orange yolks have an incredible creamy texture and sweet almond flavor that fetch nearly $2 per egg. The extraordinary...
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Southern Europe
Umbria's main cheeses are: Pecorino (young), pecorino (aged a bit), and pecorino (well aged). It can grow a tad tiresome. So I was thrilled to discover this goat cheese farm outside of Orvieto. In our visit, my children helped herd the goats,...
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Borgo Pio, 38, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
This was the best meal I've ever had in my life. Anywhere. Period. I'm going to go back to Rome just so I can have it again. Leave the Vatican, walk a couple of blocks and turn right. Delicious is an understatement.
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 2, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Ciampini has all the required three Ps (that's a thing, right?): People-watching, prime piazza location, and perfect cappuccini to make it the most coveted caffè bar in Rome. From 8 a.m. to after dark, Rome's best-dressed flock to Piazza...
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When it comes to ice cream, there is still only one place in Rome. It has been the best since 1900. I love Giolitti not only for the great gelato, but also because it hasn’t changed since I was a little girl. 39/06-699-1243. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
$$$$
Here is one of Rome’s best restaurants: Al Moro is very traditional and is well known for the quality of its seasonal ingredients, including porcini mushrooms, wild strawberries, artichokes, and asparagus. 39/06-678-3495. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Via Borgognona, 11, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
$$$$
I often take out-of-town guests here for lunch because it feels—and is—so authentic. Whenever I go in, I have ‘my’ table, as do all the other Roman regulars. One of the restaurant’s specialties is the Francovich soup, which is a delicious Tuscan...
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Via dei Condotti, 86, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Once the haunt of expat artists, poets, and dreamers, Antico Caffè Greco, on Rome's glamorous Via Condotti, is a must. At this 18th-century caffè, you'll learn that Romans can be very particular about their coffee. Cappuccino is a...
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Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 16, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
A great place that is open all day long, You will find it in the large, open, Piazza Santa Cecila in Trastevere. The sunshine streams in, there are comfy chairs, great coffee and pastries, terrific music playing and walls lined with beautiful...
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Located across the Tiber River from the Centro Storico, Trastevere is a kaleidoscope of ivy-covered buildings, complicated Italian history, and bombastic nightlife. The heart of the neighborhood is Piazza Santa Maria, a large square where street...
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Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Quietly inhabiting the lovely Via dei Banchi Vecchi, Il Goccetto (not to be confused with the Italian pro-marijuana organization by the same name) is a secret hidden in plain sight: a cozy, wood-paneled wine bar with 18th-century ceiling...
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Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent dough and creative toppings make La Fucina one of Rome's premier pizzerias. Pizzas are served to the table pre-sliced and one at a time (don’t even think about asking for them all at once, you’ll get an earful from owner Edoardo Papa!),...
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Piazza della Minerva, 42, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome's center, it's a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi...
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Trastevere is one of the most romantic neighborhoods in Rome, located on the west bank of the Tiber river. There are so many picture-like and hidden alleys in this neighborhood, leading to beautiful piazzas. This is one of the oldest areas of Rome...
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Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Armando Al Pantheon is right around the corner from the Pantheon, but it feels a world away. The interior is small, warm and inviting. They have many classic Italian dishes and a few specials of their own. The wine list is reasonable and...
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Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Gabriele Bonci's famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried...
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Vicolo Cellini, 30, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
At this speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar near Chiesa Nuova, hipster bartenders pour and shake American classics like Manhattans, Sazeracs and Old-Fashioneds in a smoky lounge. To gain admittance, make a booking and come armed with the secret...
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Via Marmorata, 47, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
We stopped at Volpetti to pick up a few items for a picnic on Aventine Hill in the Garden of Oranges. Problem is, you can't just pick up a few things here. Everything is wonderful. The food combined with the view from the Aventine makes for a...