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Rome

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The largest church by area in the world, the St Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, Italy. Remember the themes from the movie "Angels and Demons"? One thing I want to point out is when you visit there, the line to get in is usually long (don't be...
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Largo della Salara Vecchia, 5/6, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Roman Forum is where ancient Rome began. The sprawling archaeological park gives us just a hint of what the Roman Empire once was—a dominant and diverse society. The Forum itself was the political, social, religious, and commercial focal...
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Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Like all outdoor markets in Rome, Campo de' Fiori is a bustling social center where locals push past throngs of tourists to complete their errands. Every morning you can find nonni shopping for produce with their grandchildren, feisty butchers...
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Via Guido Reni, 4/a, 00196 Roma RM, Italy
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Maxxi, Rome’s first major contemporary art museum, cost 150 million and took renowned architect Zaha Hadid 10 years to complete. The result—a vast, bold space with exhibits on architecture and art—proves that modern Rome can produce masterpieces,...
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Viale della Marina, 40-42, 00122 Lido di Ostia RM, Italy
According to legend, Rome’s first orange tree—St. Dominic’s gift to the pope—was planted in Giardino degli Aranci (Garden of the Oranges) in the 13th century. The secluded park provides a panoramic view of the city, from...
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Via Caio Cestio, 6, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
One of our family favorite activities on a Sunday afternoon in Rome is a wander in the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Testaccio. We particularly love it in winter. I know, it is more picturesque and colorful in the spring and early summer, but even on...
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Vicolo del Bottino, 8, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
I love to go to this restaurant and wine bar for a glass of prosecco and to enjoy the unique view out over the Spanish Steps and the rest of Rome as the sun sets. 39/06-699-341000. By Pepi Marchetti Franchi, as told to Elizabeth Minchilli. This...
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When it comes to ice cream, there is still only one place in Rome. It has been the best since 1900. I love Giolitti not only for the great gelato, but also because it hasn’t changed since I was a little girl. 39/06-699-1243. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Piazza della Minerva, 42, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome's center, it's a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi...
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Via del Caravita, 8a, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
While a lot of people would go see the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome, fewer travelers venture out to this grand church at the Piazza di San Ignacio near the Pantheon, which features an almost equally beautiful painted ceiling done by Andrea...
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Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
One of my most memorable stops in Rome was of course the Piazza San Pietro and with it, the Basilica, and Vatican City. This huge square was laid in 1657 and holds the 400,000 worshippers and visitors who crowd this vast area in times of...
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Located across the Tiber River from the Centro Storico, Trastevere is a kaleidoscope of ivy-covered buildings, complicated Italian history, and bombastic nightlife. The heart of the neighborhood is Piazza Santa Maria, a large square where street...
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00184 Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
No matter how many postcards you've seen of Rome's iconic Colosseum, you just don't get it until you pass beneath its crumbling arches. Built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E., the huge amphitheater held 50,000 spectators and marked its...
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Piazza dell'Emporio, 28, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Having a famous food writer as a neighbor is a great thing. For example, of one of the great things is phone calls for impromptu lunches in the middle of the week. The next thing you know you are eating fois gras sandwiches and drinking glasses of...
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80/a, Via Fabio Massimo, 00192 Roma RM, Italy
Located in Prati, not too far from the Vatican, head here for a pre-tour, morning cappuccino at the wood-paneled bar. This very elegant bar also serves the prettiest cup of afternoon espresso. Before your espresso gets pulled, a generous dollop...
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59, Via Merulana, 00185 Roma RM, Italy
This is no ordinary bakery. People are said to cross town for the bread and pastries created here. I come for an early morning cappuccino with a big spoonful of “crema” (zabiglione) before a grocery trip to Mercato Piazza Vittorio or a Rome for...
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Via dei Condotti, 86, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Once the haunt of expat artists, poets, and dreamers, Antico Caffè Greco, on Rome's glamorous Via Condotti, is a must. At this 18th-century caffè, you'll learn that Romans can be very particular about their coffee. Cappuccino is a...
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Via dei Serpenti, 165, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
This is my neighborhood bar. It use to be an old fashioned, kind of grimy hodgepodge of a place that sold lottery tickets and cigarettes and lunch. I loved it. When they underwent a bright and shiny renovation, I despaired that it would become a...
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Via di Monte Giordano, 60/61, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Coromandel, located just around the corner from Piazza Navona, just might be the prettiest spot to have a meal in town. From the brass door handle to bone-handled cutlery to the delicate Limoges-style plates and cups, it is an elegant design...
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Corso Trieste, 157 B, 00198 Roma RM, Italy
The latest offering for cupcakes and take-out coffee in Rome is Bakery House located in the swanky Trieste neighborhood. Very high-tech with it's own iPhone App and iPads mounted on the walls. They pack a lot into this small, white, cheery space....
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Via degli Specchi, 6, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This pub, owned by the Piedmont-based Baladin brewing company and Lazio's own Birra del Borgo, opened in September 2009 and was quickly canonized as the best place to drink Italian beers in Rome. There are over 120 labels to choose from, ranging...
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Via dei Funari, 26, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Psychedelic lights, strong drinks and kissing teenagers in dark corners make this one of my favorite spots. On warm nights you can perch on wobbly stools near to the turtle fountain.
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Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
Need some groceries while you are in Rome?Or gifts for foodie friends? Head to Eataly. You will find fresh buffalo mozzarella made on site and fresh local vegetables and freshly baked bread made from Mulino Marino flour and beer (complete with a...
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Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 16, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
A great place that is open all day long, You will find it in the large, open, Piazza Santa Cecila in Trastevere. The sunshine streams in, there are comfy chairs, great coffee and pastries, terrific music playing and walls lined with beautiful...
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I can not resist this place. If I have errands in the neighborhood, I often have schedule them for a Tuesday, the only day of the week this shrine to pastry and sugar is closed. The Bavaresi - thin, crispy wisps of pastry filled with sweetened...
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Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent dough and creative toppings make La Fucina one of Rome's premier pizzerias. Pizzas are served to the table pre-sliced and one at a time (don’t even think about asking for them all at once, you’ll get an earful from owner Edoardo Papa!),...
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Via Lago di Lesina, 9/11, 00199 Roma RM, Italy
A few blocks from Villa Ada and the Via Salaria, Gelateria Fatamorgana sells Maria Agnese Spagnuolo’s edible works of art. Each flavor is made from all natural ingredients, without chemical additives or artificial flavors, and many are lactose...
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Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
If there is one person responsible for the relatively recent improvement of Rome’s gelato culture, it is Claudio Torcè. He has trained some of Rome’s premier gelatai (Maria Spagnuolo of Fatamorgana and the Gori siblings, to name a few) and prides...
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Via della Lungaretta, 96, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Fair trade and high quality ingredients make this one of the best gelaterie in the center of town. They serve a delicious peanut butter gelato, inspired by requests from the American college students who study nearby. In the winter, Fior di Luna...
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Via dei Chiavari, 34, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
One of Rome's best bakeries and among the city's most historic institutions, Antico Forno Roscioli is a family-run business. Depending on the time of day, you might find patriarch Marco or his son Pierluigi hard at work. There are a variety of...
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Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Gabriele Bonci's famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried...
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Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Roma RM, Italy
Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome's best trattoria,...
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Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Roscioli family, famous for their nearby bakery Antico Forno Roscioli, opened this restaurant/wine bar/gourmet shop in 2005. Book several days in advance for lunch or dinner and be sure to request a ground floor table near the back of the...
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Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
The Baths of Caracalla, a third century bathing complex located near the Circus Maximus, was the center of social life for tens of thousands of Romans who would gather there—around 10,000 at a time—to exercise, bathe, and relax. Admission was...