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Roman Holiday

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Via Ostiense, 106, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
Tired of the crowds? Go to the Centrale Montemartini in Ostiense. No lines. In fact, no other people. At all. Usually I am the only one there. Wander the ancient Roman sculptures and extraordinary mosaic floor set in the former power plant;...
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Via Statilio Ottato, 110/116, 00175 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent fried starters, delectable pizzas, and a large selection of craft beers make this one of Rome's best pizzerias. The style is Neapolitan with a high rim, as opposed to the thin crusted Roman style. The Greenwich (stilton and port...
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Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent dough and creative toppings make La Fucina one of Rome's premier pizzerias. Pizzas are served to the table pre-sliced and one at a time (don’t even think about asking for them all at once, you’ll get an earful from owner Edoardo Papa!),...
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Via Federico Ozanam, 30-32, 00152 Roma RM, Italy
Monteverde's vibrant pizzeria and trattoria is an enclave of local flavor—from its excellent menu of fritti (fried starters), sfizi (delicious antipasti), and pizzas to its busy clientele. Owner Giancarlo Casa is a pizza perfectionist, and...
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Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Roma RM, Italy
Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome's best trattoria,...
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The largest church by area in the world, the St Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, Italy. Remember the themes from the movie "Angels and Demons"? One thing I want to point out is when you visit there, the line to get in is usually long (don't be...
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Via Lago di Lesina, 9/11, 00199 Roma RM, Italy
A few blocks from Villa Ada and the Via Salaria, Gelateria Fatamorgana sells Maria Agnese Spagnuolo’s edible works of art. Each flavor is made from all natural ingredients, without chemical additives or artificial flavors, and many are lactose...
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Via Guido Reni, 4/a, 00196 Roma RM, Italy
$$$$
Maxxi, Rome’s first major contemporary art museum, cost 150 million and took renowned architect Zaha Hadid 10 years to complete. The result—a vast, bold space with exhibits on architecture and art—proves that modern Rome can produce masterpieces,...
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Via Luigi Poletti, 6, 00196 Roma RM, Italy
This tiny natural gelato shop opened behind the Maxxi (the Zaha Hadid-designed museum for 21st century art) to rave reviews in the summer of 2011. The gelataio uses Italy’s best hazelnuts and pistachios, Amedei chocolate, milk from a biodynamic...
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Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Gabriele Bonci's famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried...
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Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
One of my most memorable stops in Rome was of course the Piazza San Pietro and with it, the Basilica, and Vatican City. This huge square was laid in 1657 and holds the 400,000 worshippers and visitors who crowd this vast area in times of...
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Piazza dell'Emporio, 28, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Having a famous food writer as a neighbor is a great thing. For example, of one of the great things is phone calls for impromptu lunches in the middle of the week. The next thing you know you are eating fois gras sandwiches and drinking glasses of...
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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I can not resist this place. If I have errands in the neighborhood, I often have schedule them for a Tuesday, the only day of the week this shrine to pastry and sugar is closed. The Bavaresi - thin, crispy wisps of pastry filled with sweetened...
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Via del Boschetto, 73, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
This Golden Donkey is a golden find. Under twenty Euros will buy a full meal—antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, as well as wine and water. The menu changes daily, reflecting what is in season. I went in early spring, when I enjoyed the pictured...