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Jon Retsky's Peru 2015

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Calle Carmen Alto 227, Cusco 08000, Peru
This store is just a little ways off the main street of the San Blas arts district in Cusco, but definitely worth the diversion. Inside, funky, modern jewelry and handbags are mixed with neatly hung vintage dresses, shirts, and jackets. The walls...
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Arriving at the gate at 6:30am, I was extremley excited to see and explore this amazing place. I have been planning this trip for over ten years and the moment was finally here! After entering, the entire mountain range and ruins were covered in a...
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Unnamed Road, Peru
Colca Canyon, a three-hour drive north of Arequipa, is one of Peru’s most popular and extraordinary tourist attractions. The chasm is over 13,600 feet deep, making it one of the deepest in the world, and more than twice as deep as the...
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One of the best things to do while in Cuzco is to visit the Sunday farmer's market in the nearby Andean town of Pisac, taking either a taxi or a more economical bus to get there. The villagers surrounding Pisac come from miles around to sell their...
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Carmen Bajo 120, Cusco 08000, Peru
In the San Blas district of Peru, was the restaurant Pachapapa. This was by far the best meal we had in Peru. It was nestled in a courtyard and all the dishes were prepared in an oven next to us. Quite spectacular. DELICIOUS!
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Av. Simón Bolivar 1515, Pueblo Libre 15084, Peru
Lima's Larco Museum showcases remarkable chronological galleries providing an excellent overview on 3000 years of development of Peruvian pre-Columbian history. Located in a beautiful 18th century mansion built over a 7th century pre-Columbian...
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Avenida Miguel Grau 369, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Everyone in Lima knows Canta Rana—some consider it the best cevicheria in the city. The owners’ son has a spot in the main market called Canta Ranita where the ceviche is just as good, and even though it’s a stall, the place has...

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Cusco, Peru
I really felt the high altitude here and had to stop few feet and catch my breath but you'll get the best view of Cusco if you climb up and over the actual ruins. The ruins themselves date to the 1400's and are called "Sexy Woman Ruins" by most...
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PLAZA MAYOR, CENTRO DE, Cusco 08000, Peru
Plaza De Armas lies in the heart of the old city of Cusco, Peru. The architecture here is a wonderful mixture of Inca and Spanish Colonial. Most buildings have large stone bases, and stucco walls above. Everywhere, there is a reminder of Peru's...
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Peru
Cap your trip to Machu Picchu with a pisco sour on the Orient-Express train ride back to Cuzco. After boarding this luxury train for dinner and the return journey, everyone meets in the bar car for a drink. Live music, the rocking of the train,...
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Malecón de la Reserva 610, Miraflores 15074, Peru
Larcomar houses spectacular views of the Peruvian coast. Nestled atop Miraflores, this high-rise park and shopping mall is a great place to people watch and sip a coffee - a relaxing departure during your time spent in Lima.
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García y García 175, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

AmorAmar is by far the chicest spot in the neighborhood. Part of the dining room is open-air, and an art gallery and a florist shop are on-site. The menu is half Peruvian classics and half fusion-y dishes. Their pisco sours with...

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221, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco, Peru
Top off your evening in Cusco with a pisco sour at Fallen Angel, just across the street from the Hotel Monastero in the chic San Blas Neighborhood. The edgy decor is downright trippy. Incredible Trip to Peru: http://bit.ly/11IZdBX
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Cusco, Peru
This is another Incan site outside of Cusco, known for its canals, waterfalls and aquaducts. The water from this fountain is as clean and delicious as you could ask for.
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When I decided to go to Peru, I knew there would be plenty of handicrafts to capture my attention. I even packed a collapsible tote bag to lug my purchases back home. In Lima, I stayed at a hotel in Miraflores. On my first venture out into the...
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Chinchero District, Peru
Every color is represented in hand-dyed alpaca wool yarn, which hang in a rainbow from the stucco wall. Four to five women demonstrate yarn washing, dying, and knitting techniques passed down generation to generation, mostly orally. At these...
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Sanchez Carrion 199, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Some of the best bands in Peru play at this dive bar. It also holds an annual film festival. This year, I’m applying to screen my short film about the Peruvian sea, Madre Mar [Mother Sea]. Avenida Bolognesi 307, 51/(0) 1247-1012,...

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Jirón Sáenz Peña 206-1, Distrito de Lima 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Lucia de la Puente is the gallery where every up-and-coming Peruvian artist wants an exhibition. Some of the top modern artists in the country, such as Ramiro Llona and Mariella Agois, show here. Paseo Saenz Pena 206, 51/(0)...

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Cusco, Peru
It kind of smells like a butcher shop, but it is a real study in life in Cusco. People sell everything from wool hats and scarves to cheese and potatoes.
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Huaraz, Peru
Hiked the Lago 69 loop to the lake of the same name. It was a breathless hike with the high altitudes, but the views were worth it!
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Jr, Jirón Carabaya 100, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
In a rush to make it to the Monastery of San Francisco in historic downtown Lima, I almost missed this place. The bar is located on a corner, behind wood and glass doors. "Hemingway" was my first thought as I passed in a rush—I knew I had to come...
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Calle 2 de Mayo, Villa María del Triunfo, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Casa Tupac is a center for artists. It offers residencies and provides studio space to people working in all different media. Every few weeks they host a screening or a party that’s open to the public. Two Peruvian visual artists...

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Triunfo 393, Cusco 08000, Peru
I just returned from an exploration of Peru. While the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Machu Picchu were very inspiring and captivating, my favorite experience was a local cooking class at A Mi Manera Restaurant in Cusco. We met our local guide, Marcos,...
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Jirón Carabaya, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
A city tour of Lima isn’t complete without visiting the catacombs of the Monastery of San Francisco. The basement of the working monastery reveals the bones of wealthy Limeños who believed they would be the last to rest in their expensive plots....
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We almost didn't make it to this place. We took the (very) early morning train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Piccu. Watched the fog clear and the majestic mountain reveal itself. After a few hours we decided to go back to Aguas Calientes to eat...
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Jirón Sáenz Peña 295, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Statues guard the entrance to Dedalo, a shop dedicated to Peruvian art, fashion, and jewelry. Each room of the old colonial home is stuffed with beautiful things, from funky knits to handmade silver to wonderful felt jewelry. ...

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Patacancha, Peru
Awamaki’s 10-day tour of the Andean heartland stops in the isolated village of Patacancha, where students learn how to color alpaca wool with natural plant dyes. Two more days are devoted to one-on-one backstrap loom sessions with Quechua weavers...
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Amargura, Cusco 08000, Peru
Um...not so much. When in Peru, try one of the local delicacies: cuy. If it looks like guinea pig, that would be because it is. The skin is thick and rubbery; the meat is dark and gamey. You may want to chase it down with another local favorite,...
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Jirón Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco 15063, Peru
In recent years, Lima’s dynamic restaurants have drawn visitors from around the globe. But the opening of Hotel B in July 2013 put a stake in the ground for the city’s art scene. The Belle Époque mansion in the bohemian Barranco neighborhood is...
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Av. Camino Real 101, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Voted one of the top restaurants in Lima, chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino’s modern Amazonian restaurant, Malabar, is worthy of the praise. From the à la carte menu, order the river snails with chorizo sausage and exotic, sweet-and-sour aguaje fruit,...
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Av. Rivera Navarrete 530, San Isidro 15046, Peru
Segundo Muelle is a San Isidro ceviche institution that also has an extensive menu of cooked criollo seafood specialties. The lime- and chili-marinated seafood dish is traditionally eaten at lunch, the main meal of the day, so come between noon...
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Pancho Fierro 115, San Isidro 15073, Peru
T’anta is the chain of bistros from the restaurant empire of celebrity chef Gaston Acurio. While you could order the tasting trio of his classic ceviche, calamari, and causa (a cylindrical layered potato salad with spicy seafood filling), which is...
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Venturing south of Lima, to the lesser-visited Paracas region of Peru, was one of the best decisions a friend and I made during our three-week adventure. The beauty of the Paracas Peninsula, a protected wildlife preservation, was breathtaking in...
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Av. Victor Andrés Belaúnde 198, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Easily within walking distance from the rambling seaside cliffs of scenic Miraflores sits a tiny, yet significant contribution to Lima's modern food movement. Rafael Osterling is no newcomer to the local culinary scene, and his restaurant is like...
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Leder, San Juan de Miraflores 15801, Peru
Leder’s leather-bound notebooks and laurel root photo albums are unique in a city full of gifts and souvenirs. The handmade items are available in dark earth tones, in homage to the Peruvian ground from which their materials came. The company is...
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Unión 184, Cusco 08000, Peru
A love of fresh and local food should bring any traveler to the San Pedro Market. Although close to the main square, it is not a common tourist stop. It is, however, a sensory lovers heaven, with rows of brightly colored root vegetables, fruits...
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The olive grove at Parque El Olivar is a breath of fresh air in muggy Lima. The park is a national monument that represents the colonial history of the city and is surrounded by a lagoon, an art gallery, and mansions from the early 1900s. Stop by...
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Jr. Madre de Dios S/N, Cercado de Lima 15046, Peru
The fountains at the Magical Circuit of Water are not up to the standards of the Bellagio fountains in Las Vegas, but the choreographed jets of water, light, and music at the multiple fountains in the giant park are captivating. There are three...
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I‘m a sucker for the kitschy and macabre and the Museum of the Inquisition sounds like it’s both. Plus, the exhibit is a quick walk from the Monasterio de San Francisco in Central Lima. Entry is free and I wait only a few minutes for an...
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PLAZA MAYOR, CENTRO DE, Cusco 08000, Peru
Reward yourself for climing all those damn steps to Sacsayhuaman! Head to Norton Rat’s Tavern on the corner the Plaza de Armas (sorry, you’re in for a few more stairs to get to the second floor), grab a cold Cusqueña beer (it’s not bad stuff) and...
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Calle Comandante O Donovan 115 Miraflore, Lima LIMA 18, Peru
We spent a day on the beach in Miraflores, Peru. The tide is aggressive and the beach is composed of smooth, small-to-medium pebbles. So, when the water comes in, it pushes far into the shoreline. And when the water draws out, it makes an...
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Cruz, Distrito de Chorrillos 15064, Peru
Galeria Delbarrio is an extraordinary place to see Peruvian pop art. The gallery mixes the old and new, modern and traditional, in a very fun way. They have paintings, comics and an extensive collection of rustic-pop furniture spread throughout a...
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Enrique León García 114, Cercado de Lima 15034, Peru
Peru has no shortage of stellar cevicherias, so how does a little hole-in-the-wall joint that's open only for lunch develop a cult following? I'm sure Anthony Bourdain deserves a fair bit of credit there, but Chef Javier Wong definitely deserves...
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Laguna 69, Peru
The view you're rewarded with if you make it to the top of the hike! Laguna 69 is a glacial lake, which means it's freezing cold and the color comes from minerals in the water. Breathtaking.
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Huaraz, Peru
Brightly coloured chili at a small market in Yungay, Peru
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Islas Ballestas, Peru
The cruise around the Ballestas Island will take you to your favorite childhood movie, where dinosaurs flew out of the skies and wildlife was all around. I legitimately felt like I was in a Jurassic Park movie - but the beginning of the movie,...
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Peru
Intense deserts as far as your eyes can see, and in the other direction is the stark contrast of the deep blue ocean. Reserva Nacional De Paracas is truly a feast for the eyes - and the cameras. The terrain is so intense and emotional, with it's...
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Pachacamac District, Peru
With three-plus days in Lima, we had quickly ticked off the 'musts' on our list and found ourselves looking for more to explore. Our concierge mentioned Pachacamac, ruins that were fairly recently discovered about an hour outside of Lima. We were...
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Av. De La Poesía 160, San Borja 15034, Peru
Beautiful, beautiful Lima library.
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Chinchero District, Peru
On our way to Ollantaytambo from Cuzco, our local guide stopped at Chinchero after learning that I was fascinated by local textiles. Here, we visited his friend's house who was in the process of dying the yarn to use in the intricate patterned...
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Peru
Have you ever felt like there is life beyond our universe? Your answer will most likely be yes after visiting the Nazca Lines near the Ballestas Islands in Peru. The lines are said to represent either an ancient candelabra or some sort of beacon....
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Av. Pedro de Osma, Barranco 15063, Peru
If you take a walk along Pedro de Osma Avenue, in the neighborhood called Barranco, you’ll find great examples of most the colorful, stylish and original street art in Lima these days. Peruvian street art is an expression of the hopes and fears...
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Ollantaytambo, Peru
I was en route to Machu Picchu [Peru]. As I stepped off the train and began making my way through the small town of Aguas Calientes, perhaps out of sheer curiosity, I turned to look back. I was greeted by the most dramatic landscape I could ever...
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Jirón Ucayali, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Lima’s Balcones are one of the main reasons why the Historic downtown was granted a Unesco Heritage Site status. Balcones are a typical Peruvian porches, the architecture dates from the Spanish Viceroyalty times. They are made of wood and...