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Paris. Part Deux.

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My first trip to Paris 10 years ago, I was your typical American tourist, itinerary ripped straight from your average guide. I was embarrassed to speak the language. I hit up every tourist hot spot. And I dined out A LOT. This time around, I'm living the local life. More wandering, more grazing...more French.
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Ile de la Cité, 75004 Paris, France
Picnicking is taken so seriously in Paris that once a year locals throw a Dîner en Blanc, a formal picnic where guests wear white and bring out their best china to dine by the hundreds at landmarks like the Carousel du Louvre or Place de la...
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13 Place du Pont Neuf, 75001 Paris, France
One of the oldest wine-bars in Paris, this local institution is a casual, no-frills bistro and surprisingly tourist-free. Excellent charcuterie and local wine by-the-glass make for an affordable and memorable meal.
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8 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris, France
Sainte Chapelle is a true Gothic masterpiece located on Île de la Cité. Sainte Chapelle was founded by King Louis IX as a chapel for the royal palace. Sainte Chapelle houses a small chapel downstairs that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The...
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6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris, France
For a first-time visitor to Notre Dame, investing in the audio guide is essential to immerse in and understand this overwhelmingly significant Paris icon. There's a lot to see and absorb—history, architecture, artifacts,...
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55 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004 Paris, France
Candies & caramels.
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29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004 Paris, France
Cool down on a hot summer's day in Paris with an ice cream from Berthillon on, Paris' most famous ice cream shop. Enjoy it sitting on the banks of the Seine - Berthillon is on Ile Saint-Louis, so you can easily find a place to sit with lovely...
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26 Rue du Four, 75006 Paris, France
Where savvy Parisienne shops for skin-care products - La Roche Posay, Avene, Caudalie, Nuxe, Roger & Gallet, Klorane, the list goes on and on!
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38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
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La Grande Épicerie is the food emporium for the Bon Marché department store. A definite spot to buy gourmet food for a picnic or for gifts to take home. It sells over 30,000 gourmet products including groceries, fresh produce, fish, wines and...
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1 Quai de la Corse, 75004 Paris, France
For non first-timers in Paris, what better way to see local Paris than through a proper tour by a local in a car with champagne! Voilà Cedric!
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172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France
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Go for the scene, not the food, and enjoy the Art Deco décor and great people-watching at this buzzy Left Bank landmark. Despite a limited menu and steep prices, the place is packed day and night. Order a chocolat chaud and sit on the...
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Paris, France
My wife and two friends were tired of "museums" so they mistakenly decided to go shopping while I went to the Rodin Museum alone. It was breathtaking, the flowers were all in full bloom, the art on display inside was rare and beautiful, but the...
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8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
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Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats.

1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilane are made...

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51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris, France
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More cheeeeeeese!
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75006 Paris, France
On sunny days, Parisians head for the Luxembourg Garden, built by Marie de' Medici in 1611 and modeled after the Boboli Gardens in her native Florence. In addition to the magnificent Medici Fountain, there are more than 100 statues arranged around...
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Jardin Tuileries, 75001 Paris, France
Flanked by three Rodin statues, the glass and stone Musee de l'Orangerie is home to paintings by the greatest modernists - Picasso, Monet, Cezanne... There are only two floors in this white-walled museum. The second floor consists of two oval...
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13 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, France
The Palais de Tokyo is a grand, templelike building with a view of the Eiffel Tower. But the interior, where offbeat contemporary art is often showcased, is a wreck; parts of it are almost ruinous. I love the contrast between the formality of the...
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35 Boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 Paris, France
Parc Monceau
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5 Rue de Palestine, 75019 Paris, France
More rough-and-tumble and far less touristy than the Tuileries and Luxembourg gardens, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a green space that's worth a visit—especially given the recent resurgence of its surrounding district, the formerly...
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1 Coulée verte René-Dumont, 75012 Paris, France
Paris's version of Manhattan's Highline.
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Palais-Royal, 75001 Paris, France
Jardin du Palais Royal
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113 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
Before the French Revolution, this park used to be the site of the Royal Palace. Today, the garden, which separates the Louvre from the Place de la Concorde, is a place where Parisians and tourists stroll amid Rodin and Maillol statues or relax...
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57 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France
If it rains...
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34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, France
Situated a block from the Canal St.-Martin in the 10th arrondissement, Du Pain et des Idées is your favorite corner bakery—only better. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, was named best boulanger in Paris in 2008, and for good reason....
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86 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris, France
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Cheeeeeeeeese!
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10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 Paris, France
If the coffee scene in Paris is as robust as it is today, it's thanks in large part to Thomas Lehoux, one of the city's star baristas and co-owner of Ten Belles, just off the Canal Saint-Martin. He collaborated with two Englishwomen, Anna Trattles...
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39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, 75005 Paris, France
Tea
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3 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, France
Tea
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35 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004 Paris, France
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Tea
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109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
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Have you been here? Tell us about it below!
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Hold forth with the French about coffee and you'll quickly understand its purpose. It's not meant to be consumed leisurely but rather serves to clean the palate after a hearty meal. They think of it as a digestif which they tend to down in one...
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52 Rue de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
Coffee
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231 Rue Saint Honoré - côté cour, 75001 Paris, France
Hot Chocolate...and other chocolate-y wonders.
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72 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, France
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The great macaron debate may forever wage on but from the first time I tucked into a small box of Pierre Hermé's dimunitive cookies, perfectly crisp on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth soft on the inside, I knew I'd remain loyal to his...
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75 avenue Des Champs Elysées, 75008 Paris, France
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Right next to the glorious Arch de Triumph are exquisite shops and street performers lining the pathway to a small location of the most delectable macaroons in the world- Ladurée. One cannot go to Paris without stopping by one of these stores; I...
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7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012 Paris, France
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Madeleines, macarons, croissants!
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14 Rue Rambuteau, 75003 Paris, France
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Dessert
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108 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France
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Chocolates moderne.
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133 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris, France
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Dessert
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226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
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If you have a sweet tooth or if you are looking for the best chocolate milk or mont blanc cake in Paris, look no further. Angelina Patisserie is the place you should head to. Located just across Jardin de Rivoli, Angelina doubles as Patisserie and...
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19 Rue Monge, 75005 Paris, France
Le Bon Bon au Palais-Confectionary Shop is a delightful candy shop in the Latin Quarter. Georges, the always smiling owner, painstakingly travels all over France to find the tastiest and best confections from every region. Tasty delights include...
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52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France
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Prior to opening the amazing Verjus Restaurant and Verjus wine bar, Americans Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian owned the Hidden Supper Club, an Internet-access-only series of hosted meals in their Palais Royal apartment. Luckily for us, the moved...
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22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris, France
You know it's fresh when you find actual shot in your pork chop.
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3 Rue Sainte-Beuve, 75006 Paris, France
Dinner
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117 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
Rumor has it French cuisine is heavy, fortunately, that is just a rumor. The delicious, savory crêpes, called galettes, at Ty Breiz dispel the folly at first bite and Le Soufflé serves the eponymic dish that is light as air. Classic Parisian...
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6 Rue Bailleul, 75001 Paris, France
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Lunch
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8 Rue des Plantes, 75014 Paris, France
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Taxi drivers know where they’re going when clients ask for the Rue des Plantes around lunch or dinner time. The destination? Le Severo, a simple bistro tucked in a quiet neighborhood in the 14th arrondissement, set with vintage...
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5 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris, France
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Frenchie (the restaurant) is nearly impossible to get into, but the wine bar across the street provides a taste of chef Gregory Marchand’s housemade charcuterie and pasta, as well as small plates such as homemade smoked trout and burrata cheese...
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32-34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, France
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Located in the Marais, L'As Du Falafel likes to boast about its connection to rocker Lenny Kravitz. Specifically that he has endorsed the falafel sandwich here. You don't need me to tell you this. Just go here: it's posted all over the walls. The...
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44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
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We had only a few nights in Paris, and on the last, we followed Jim Mayer's lead, which he culled from a guidebook that called Restaurant Chez Astier's cheese plate the best in the city. Dinner was great; very traditional. And I remember the wines...
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8 Rue des Capucines, 75002 Paris, France
Jambon-beurre sandwich
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54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, France
You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices, but at Semilla, you're in for both a great meal and a great deal. The international influence is strong...
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2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris, France
Lunch
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74 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris, France
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Healthy lunch
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66 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
Lunch
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58 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris, France
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Grocery Store
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73 Boulevard Raspail, 75006 Paris, France
Walk along under the covered carts and taken in the flavors and characters of the market... From the Frenchman generously spooning out samples of his foie gras to the Russian couple flashing lots and lots of Euros to the Muffin Man -- Michael...
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Rue Montorgueil, Paris, France
Outdoor market
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9 Rue de Beauce, 75003 Paris, France
Covered market
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60 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008 Paris, France
Fleurs
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75009 Paris, France
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann is worth a visit if only to stand under its magnificent glass dome. The family business has survived as a one-stop-shopping hub for five generations, thanks to steady innovation and an emphasis on high fashion and...
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64 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, France
Department Store
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213 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
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Beside the fact that Rue Saint Honore is one of my favorite streets in Paris (not only for window shopping but also for people spotting) and I can spend hours and days going from one store to another, one of the most popular and trendiest concept...
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51 Rue du Four, 75006 Paris, France
Ballerina Heaven
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37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
Located at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, a stone’s throw from the Seine and draped in the shadow of Notre Dame, is what should be proclaimed one of France’s national treasures: the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. This is...
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111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, France
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It isn't uncommon to see large tour buses idling in front of Merci, one of the city's most popular home and design shops, as visitors alight, armed with canvas shopping totes and credit cards at the ready. The store's philanthropic mission brings...
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13 Rue Saint-Paul, 75004 Paris, France
Tchotckes & trinkets. +33-1-42-74-36-38 Call for hours, as they are precarious.
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3 Quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris, France
Where Picasso and all the greats bought their art supplies.
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52 Rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, France
Shopping in the Marais
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52 Rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris, France
The Target of Paris
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7 Rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, 75005 Paris, France
Cedric's Night Tour of the City of Light.
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24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
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A five-level emporium specializing in French luxury brands (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel), Le Bon Marché traces its origins to a stall run by a hatmaker’s son and his wife in 1852. The beauty department is under an Art Deco glass ceiling; the third...
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132-140 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, France
Marché aux Puces de St.-Ouen, aka Clignancourt, is Europe’s largest flea market and the city’s favorite place to find a bargain. Exiting the metro at Porte de Clignancourt, those in the know pass by the counterfeit...
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76 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, France
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Pastry Bakery
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52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France
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A boon to taco-starved expats when it opened five years ago, this taqueria-meets-cocktail lounge has been consistently good since day one. Tuck into tacos, tostadas and deliciously chunky guacamole in the narrow taqueria, then head past the...
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80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, France
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If you're lucky enough to score a reservation to try young chef Bertrand Grebaut's cooking, consider it winning the lottery. The smartly modern bistro—which made it onto the 2016 World's 50 Best Restaurants list—is only open five days...
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43 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 75011 Paris, France
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Charcuterie.
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9-11 Rue du Jour, 75001 Paris, France
Crepes
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46 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, France
Since 1831 Deyrolle has been the taxidermist for Parisians. In the two-story shop on the lovely Rue du Bac, you'll find everything from domestic animals and large exotic mammals (lions! zebras!) to insects, shells, birds, and educational...
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2 Route des Tribunes, 75016 Paris, France
Hosting the Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe during the first weekend of October, Longchamp is a horse racing fan's dream. Free shuttle buses from Port d'Auteuil and ladies sporting fabulous hats get in for free!
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11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, France
We arrived cold, tired, hungry on a rainy night. The walk from the train station to our friends apartment at 1 am woke us up with the clatter of our bags on the cobblestone streets. The buzz of excitement bounced off each body in the street as...