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Paris - a return in the rain

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I'm meeting my husband in Paris for a few days in late October - not the warmest or driest of times. Since we visited a few summers ago, this will be a chance to delve a little deeper and see a few more (warmer) museums. Oh, and eat quite a bit.
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1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 75007 Paris, France
Small enough to get around without being overwhelmed, the Musée d'Orsay is a favorite stop in Paris not just for its size but for its collection of impressionist, postimpressionist, and art nouveau art. Perfectly set in the center of the...
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Père-Lachaise, 75020 Paris, France
Pere Lachaise has got to be the coolest cemetery in the world. Although that claim is subject to personal opinion it is the largest cemetery in the city of Paris and one of it's oldest (Note that I have also visited Lafayette in New Orleans and...
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75001 Paris, France
Stand on the the quais beneath the Pont Neuf bridge—the city's oldest crossing of the Seine—and look up. Staring down at you are mascarons, stone faces that resemble gargoyles, but without bodies. No two of these grotesque visages are the same....
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8 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris, France
Sainte Chapelle is a true Gothic masterpiece located on Île de la Cité. Sainte Chapelle was founded by King Louis IX as a chapel for the royal palace. Sainte Chapelle houses a small chapel downstairs that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The...
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44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
We had only a few nights in Paris, and on the last, we followed Jim Mayer's lead, which he culled from a guidebook that called Restaurant Chez Astier's cheese plate the best in the city. Dinner was great; very traditional. And I remember the wines...
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66 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
Before wandering around Paris for two days, I asked my French friend Nadine, "where do I eat?" She directed me to Cafe Louis Phillipe for a lovely French lunch. The beautiful blue cheese, walnut, and endive salad arrived first, followed by a roast...
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13 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles, 75013 Paris, France
A tiny resto nestled in the 13th arrondissement of Paris. A short walk from the metro station Place d'Italie, this 18-seater offers pages of delicious crêpes and scrumptious bowls of cider to wash it all down with. One of those places that leaves...
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80 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
Did you know that only 25% of French people buy their cheese from a fromagerie? And of that 25, only 3-4% go to an affineur (cheese refiner). Both are the sad realities of a dying tradition in France of sourcing provisions from neighborhood...
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4 Rue de Sévigné, 75004 Paris, France
THey say the best crêpes in Paris are in the Montparnasse district. But while that may be true, I had an exceptional lunch at the La Cidrerie du Marais. The owners are from Breton so it is "legit" and the offerings are diverse. I had the simple...
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6 Rue de la Grange Batelière, 75009 Paris, France
Passages were designed in the 19th century to give Parisians protection from muddy streets and horse-drawn vehicles. Some 20 of these covered walkways remain today, including the Passage Verdeau; they are an excellent way to journey back into...
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35 Boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 Paris, France
I've been to Parc Monceau only once and loved it right away. Maybe because it has a homey, neighborhood feeling, (a public park situated in the 8th arrondissement of Paris) maybe because of the classical colonnade in the middle of it, or maybe...
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Île Saint-Louis, 75004 Paris, France
Just east of the magnificent buttresses of the Cathédrale Notre Dame, across the Pont Saint-Louis, lies an island sanctuary in the middle of this chic, bustling city: Île Saint-Louis. The one-way streets are narrow, with views of the Seine River...
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63 Rue de Monceau, 75008 Paris, France
The elegant musée Nissim de Camondo is truly one of the finest gems in Paris' treasure chest of cultural experiences. Previously the private residence of a wealthy Jewish family, the impressive private collection became a museum at the bequest of...
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1 Coulée verte René-Dumont, 75012 Paris, France
The Parisian alternative for the New York high line is La Promenade Plantée, in the 12th arrondissement. The promenade was the idea of Philippe Mathieux and Jacques Vergely, who turned over the former railway track which connected the Place de la...
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Sorbonne, Paris, France
The Seine River runs through the city of Paris and is one of the great historic rivers in Europe. It is and always been Paris' heart. I was staying on the Left Bank in the 6th arrondissement. One morning after my breakfast croissant and bowl of...
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Place Georges-Pompidou, 75004 Paris, France
When in Paris, of course you must visit the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, and L'Orangerie to see the classics and impressionist masters of Europe. But a trip to France’s capital should not be complete without a stop at the inside out Pompidou modern art...
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9 Rue des Cascades, 75020 Paris, France
One of the best local art galleries, Crevecoeur shows the work of sculptors and painters such as Julien Carreyn and Jorge Pedro Nunez. —Matali Crasset 4 rue Jouye-Rouve, arr. 20, 33/(0) 9-54-57-31-26. This appeared in the August/September 2013...
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3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris, France
The chef here, Raquel Carena, is Argentine, and she cooks from her heart. The food is so original. She does beautiful dishes like mackerel tartare with smoked vinegar. Her husband is in charge of the excellent wine list. —Matali Crasset 3 rue...
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2 Rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010 Paris, France
Cedric Casanova imports products from Sicily to supply to Alain Ducasse and many other top chefs in Paris. He also sells them at his boutique, which you can reserve for a dinner party. —Matali Crasset 2 rue Sainte-Marthe, arr. 10, 33/(0)...
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22 Rue du Plateau, 75019 Paris, France
I visit this relaxing, friendly restaurant near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont for its interesting wines and good, simple cooking—grilled sausage with potato puree, for example. —Matali Crasset 22 rue du Plateau, arr. 19, 33/(0) 1-42-38-18-65. This...
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173 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
Astier de Villatte is well known for its light weight white porcelain plates and dishes, all shown in a big wooden closet at the entrance hall of the store, alongside home perfumes, candles and other colored decorative dishes. It serves as a...
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7 Rue de Prague, 75012 Paris, France
Petit Pan is a kid-wonder brand. It has a few stores in Paris (in fact, in other locations all over Europe) but the one I’ve visited was at a tiny store in the heart of the Latin Quarter at rue du Bac. The brand Petit Pan is known by its colorful...
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25 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
Most locals point to Breizh Café in the Marais for the city's best crêpes but my loyalties lie with Chez Imogène, a tiny, no-frills restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. Traditional buckwheat galettes and sweet dessert crêpes take pride of place...
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261 Boulevard Raspail, 75014 Paris, France
Little needs to be said about Paris's peerless art scene and the iconic museums that greet throngs of visitors each day but we hear very little about spaces like the non profit Fondation Cartier for Contemporary Art nestled in the 1'4th...
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17 Rue Montorgueil, 75001 Paris, France
So, you think you know Paris? There are hundreds of memorable streets and boulevards in the City of Lights. But, for my money, Rue Montorgueil is the best. It is compact, only three blocks long, with a metro stop at each end. In between, you have...
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1 Passage du Grand Cerf, 75002 Paris, France
It had been years since I last stumbled upon the Passage du Grand Cerf in the 2nd, a long and narrow gallery of creative shops. Though I wasn't the only shopper, part of me felt like I had happened upon an untouched jewel. If I share this spot...
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8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France

Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats.

1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilane are made...

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Grandes-Carrières, 75018 Paris, France
Hotels in Paris are costly; prohibitively expensive particularly when you're trying to travel on a budget. Renting an apartment often ends up being a more cost effective option, especially if you snag a small kitchen. The Paris experience will be...
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37 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, France
The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the...
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You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices, but at Semilla, you're in for both a great meal and a great deal. The international influence is strong...
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10 Place de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris, France
In 1963 artist Marc Chagall was commissioned by the French Minister of Culture to repaint the Paris Opera House ceiling. The artist choice was controversial because, although a French nationalized citizen, Chagall was a Russian Jew, and a modern...
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69 Rue de Lyon, 75012 Paris, France
Paris boasts an unusual elevated park, La Promenade Plantée, built atop an abandoned elevated railway viaduct in the 12th arrondissement. It starts a block east of the Place de la Bastille and stretches for 2.9 elevated miles. Landscape architect...
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32 Rue Cler, 75007 Paris, France
Cafe L'Eclair is everything you expect when you think of the perfect French cafe: delicious cafe au lait, croissants and tartine and a bonus, this cafe turns into a cocktail bar after dark. Another benefit of this lovely cafe is its location on...
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1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris, France
In the 14th district of Paris are the Catacombs, also known as the underground ossuary (or l'Ossuaire Municipal) where 6 million skeletons are stacked in an orderly fashion and date back several centuries ago. This was done because Paris...