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Operation Italy

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1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012 Paris, France
During oyster season from October through April (any month with an “r” in it), locals flock to Le Baron Rouge, a lowbrow wine bar in the 12th arrondissement. Customers use just about any available space (the tops of recycling bins, the roofs of...
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Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy

New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps...

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Via Pignasecca, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
La Pignasecca is renowned for its abundance of cheese, pastry, and fresh fish stalls. As you shop, don’t miss snacking on the biscuits (tarrale) from Panificio Vincenzo Coppola. Open daily, Via Pignasecca. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples...
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Riviera di Chiaia, 269, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Antonella Rossi and her husband, Corrado, offer seasonal locavore takes on traditional Neapolitan fare such as green zucchini with squid sauteed in olive oil with lavender. 39/081-552-2266. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples."
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Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45, 80133 Napoli NA, Italy
Once the bayside palazzo of a shipping magnate, the recently restored Romeo juxtaposes antique and modern art in a world-class collection. Fabrics, serving pieces, and porcelain by Hermes, Andree Putman, and J.L. Coquet complement the Kenzo Tange–...
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Località Bagni di Petriolo, 58045 Pari, Civitella Paganico GR, Italy
Relax in the warm volcanic water emerging from deep underground. These natural spas were known by the Romans, who came here for their yearly health retreat.
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Via Addolorata, 5, 98050 Valdichiesa ME, Italy
Just returned from four weeks in Sicily. The time we spent on the Aeolian Islands was incredible. Italy with no crowds, unbelievably fresh seafood, and days spent boating around the small islands (Salina was our favourite), stopping to swim...