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One Great Block: Montpellier's Mediterranean Magic

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In Montpellier’s L’Écusson quarter, Languedoc wines and the culinary traditions of southern France meet the stylish, artsy vibe of a university town. —By Mikki Brammer
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16 Rue du Faubourg de la Saunerie, 34000 Montpellier, France
Planning a fromage pilgrimage? Make sure the tiny Crèmerie du Faubourg is on your list. Grab a wedge of the famous blue-veined Roquefort or the pélardons des Cévennes, a soft goat cheese. Owners Cécile Broquere and Nina Alaimo can also suggest...
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14 Rue de l'École de Pharmacie, 34000 Montpellier, France
Local students are flocking to La Panacée, a splashy new art space in a former pharmacy school, for the mix of experimen- tal exhibitions (say, water calligraphy depicting the history of the toast) and lounges, including a café lit by neon tubes....
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1 Rue de la Carbonnerie, 34000 Montpellier, France
Half the charm of Baudon de Mauny, an 18th-century townhouse turned hotel, is navigating L’Écusson’s tiny pedestrian streets just to find it. The other half: the mélange of Marimekko prints, patterned wallpaper, and original plasterwork in each of...
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27 Rue de l'Aiguillerie, 34000 Montpellier, France
Imagine yourself among the French aristocracy while dining under Cellier Morel’s 13th-century stone ceilings. The food, however, is anything but archaic: dashi-stewed sea bass and an elevated aligot, a rustic blend of potato and tomme cheese. This...
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2 Rue Saint-Come, 34000 Montpellier, France
Olivier Bardou sells his geometric jewelry plus global housewares (Finnish ceramics, Japanese water tubs) in De La Luce, a 500-year-old domed shop. Visit in the afternoon when the sun creates an ethereal glow, and you’ll understand the name: luce...
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1-3 Rue de l'Argenterie, 34000 Montpellier, France
The surrounding Languedoc region was plagued by a reputation for producing cheap bulk wines until the recent arrival of craft winemakers. Find the best in Jean Guizard’s Aux Grands Vins de France, Montpellier’s oldest wine shop. Guizard, whose...