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Oct/Nov in Paris & Rome

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129 Rue d'Aboukir, 75002 Paris, France
Faust: At the foot of the Esplanade des Invalides in Paris, you’ll find a heated riverside terrace, a restaurant and bar, and a performance space. Near the Alexandre-III bridge. This appeared in the June/July 2014 issue. Read more about Paris's...
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Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
There are so many major sights to see in Rome that it is easy to get caught up in hurrying from tourist option A to Z! We hurried along with the best of them, but the favorite part of our time in the city was walking the neighborhoods in the...
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Fondamenta Vin Castello, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
Two things you need to know about gondola rides in Venice: 1 - They're worth it. 2 - The price is agreed beforehand, and is standard. Knowing those two things, you can happily hop aboard this traditional Venetian mode of transport and relax,...
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Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Italy
One of the best ways to schedule a quick walk through venice is to use churches as goal posts. A walk from the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute to the Chiesa di San Sebastiano is one of my favorites because it all happens in the Dorsoduro...
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Viale Vaticano, 99, 00165 Roma RM, Italy
The Sistine Chapel wasn't painted in one day, so don't pressure yourself either - take a break during your visit there at the Vatican Museum, have a cup of espresso and snack, recharge, and be amazed again by the beautiful arts inside of the...
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Borgo Pio, 38, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
This was the best meal I've ever had in my life. Anywhere. Period. I'm going to go back to Rome just so I can have it again. Leave the Vatican, walk a couple of blocks and turn right. Delicious is an understatement.
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Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 2, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Ciampini has all the required three Ps (that's a thing, right?): People-watching, prime piazza location, and perfect cappuccini to make it the most coveted caffè bar in Rome. From 8 a.m. to after dark, Rome's best-dressed flock to Piazza...
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When it comes to ice cream, there is still only one place in Rome. It has been the best since 1900. I love Giolitti not only for the great gelato, but also because it hasn’t changed since I was a little girl. 39/06-699-1243. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Via Guido Reni, 4/a, 00196 Roma RM, Italy
Maxxi, Rome’s first major contemporary art museum, cost 150 million and took renowned architect Zaha Hadid 10 years to complete. The result—a vast, bold space with exhibits on architecture and art—proves that modern Rome can produce masterpieces,...
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Vicolo della Cancelleria, 13, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Pizzeria Baffetto II off Campo dei Fiori. One of the best in the city - my favorite is plain tomato sauce with Buffalo cheese or mozzarella + eggplant. The sister pizzeria Baffetto I is 5 minutes away, located behind Piazza Navona, however,...
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Via Claudia, 15, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
The Paolo Parisi egg has become an Italian status symbol. The perfect whites look like those of any other egg, but the Day-Glo orange yolks have an incredible creamy texture and sweet almond flavor that fetch nearly $2 per egg. The extraordinary...
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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Via di Capo le Case, 6, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Old-fashioned stores, like this one that makes and sells hand-embroidered children’s clothes, are in danger of dying out. I keep the tradition going and buy baby gifts for my girlfriends. 39/06-679-2992. By Pepi Marchetti Franchi, as told to...
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Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
Every Saturday and Sunday on Via S. Teodoro, tucked just off Circus Maximus, Rome's best farmer's market takes place. It's run by Campagna Amica, an Italy-wide organization that promotes local, sustainable agriculture—so all of the products sold...
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Piazzale Anita Garibaldi, 00165 Roma RM, Italy
Piazza Garibaldi is situated on a hilltop on the western side of Rome's city center. It's a scenic and lovely walk through tree-lined streets with kooky sculptures and children's jungle gyms up to the gorgeous view. A perfect place for a picnic!
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Galleria Essedra, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 75, 00185 Roma RM, Italy
Dagnino is a Sicilan Bar, filled with Sicilian treats, with plenty of old school, retro charm. There are baristas in white jackets and lots of polished marble and burnished silver. My favorite thing to get there is a breakfast cappuccino and a...
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37 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, France
The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the...