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Oaxaca Trip 2015

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Km. 3, Carr. Internacional, Cerro del Fortín, Faldas del Fortin, 68030 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Enjoy some of the best views of Oaxaca city while you dine on local specialties such as tlayudas and parrilladas. Come for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just for drinks. It’s open from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., and the view is great any time of day. El...
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Calle Porfirio Díaz 115, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's Casa de la Ciudad is housed in a big yellow building just a couple of blocks from the Zocalo. On the ground level you'll find the Andres Henestrosa memorial library which contains over 50,000 volumes, and some rooms that are used for...
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20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
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Diaz Ordaz 712, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
You can find Cuish brand mezcal in a few establishments in Oaxaca city, but head to their own tasting bar located on the outskirts of the city center to learn what this brand stands for. They offer mezcal that is artisanally produced from several...
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Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Lambityeco rose to prominence around the time of the decline the great Zapotec capital Monte Alban, roughly 700 A.D. The site was originally excavated in the 1960s, although some restoration work has been done since that time. Among the buildings...
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Carretera a Tlacolula 190 Km 17, San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, Oax., Mexico
This small archaeological site is situated on a hillside about 12 miles east of Oaxaca city. The name "Dainzú" means "hill of the organ cactus" in Zapotec, although that most certainly was not the original name. The site was occupied in very early...
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Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Tlacolula is the largest town in the Eastern arm of the Oaxaca valley. Market day in this town is on Sundays and on this one day of the week hordes of people come to town from nearby villages to buy, sell, and socialize. You'll find all kinds of...
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Portal Las Flores 3, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
This white tablecloth restaurant on the second floor above the Zocalo is more upscale than other options around the plaza. It opened in 2013, and the floor to ceiling open windows allow all diners to enjoy the views; though from farther back you...
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Calle de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
These large, thick tortillas are called "tlayudas" and they're a Oaxaca specialty that you're unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They're prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called...
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Av Independencia s/n, Vista Hermosa, 68247 San Agustín Etla, Oax., Mexico
Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded the project of converting an abandoned textile mill into an arts center, which was inaugurated in 2006. The Centro de las Artes San Agustin (CASA) hosts exhibits of a variety of media, as well as courses...
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Oaxaca, Mexico
The natural fresh-water springs at Hierve el Agua were incredible (and cold!). The water is very high in calcium carbonate, and the minerals have formed these natural pools and crazy waterfall-like rock formations. The dusty road was somewhat...
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Juárez Maza s/n, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca, AGS, Mexico
Oaxaca is a world culinary capital for good reason and there is no better place to indulge in all the recipes, ingredients, and traditions of the region than at Central de Abastos, Oaxaca City's main market. It's easy to accidentally spend an...
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Democracia 18, PRIMERA ETAPA, Ricardo Flores Magon, 68058 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Breakfasts in Mexico are a lot more interesting than eggs and toast. Start with a cafe de olla (coffee made in a clay pot with brown sugar and cinnamon) or hot chocolate with bread to dunk in it, then move on to the main course. A lot of the...
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71510, Calle Pueblos Unidos 104, Centro, 71510 Ocotlán de Morelos, Oax., Mexico
Inside the main market in Ocotlan de Morelos there is a food stall called La Cocina de Frida ("Frida's Kitchen"), and standing behind the counter is none other than Frida Kahlo herself, or at least a reasonable facsimile. Owner Beatriz Vázquez...
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20 de Noviembre Loc. 39, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you'll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full...
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I recently visited Oaxaca, Mexico with the chef Alex Stupak and his wife Lauren Resler, co-owners of the Empellon restaurants in New York City. Markets are a passion for Oaxacans and Alex and Lauren would happily spend every waking minute of their...
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Xolotl, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This market is small enough to try every food stall, but with enough diversity to make you feel like you’re at an organic food festival. Italian pastries and Korean noodle bowls sit side by side. Tortillas are filled with squash blossoms and bean...
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Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
On a walk through Oaxaca's Centro Historico any evening, you'll come across carts selling steaming corn. Order an elote and you'll get the corn on the cob on a wooden stick. If you request it "con todo," the vendor will squeeze some lime juice on...
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Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, Mexico
This small village just east of Mitla has a large sign declaring it the world capital of mezcal. Here you'll be able to see the whole process of how mezcal is made from harvesting the agave plant to distillation. There's a wide variety of...
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Reforma No. 506, Col. Centro, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Just down the street from where we stayed in Oaxaca there was a mezcal bar called Mezcaloteca. It was staffed by one woman, very studiously sharing her love of mezcal. She poured us a tasting of three different mezcals into the little gourd cups:...
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Oaxaca, Mexico
Mezcal is Oaxaca's smokey spirit of choice and one of the best places to try it is at the mezcaleria Los Amantes in Oaxaca City. The walls of the funky space on Allende 107 in the historical district are lined with dozens of clay pots that were...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
Ron Cooper, founder of Del Maguey mezcal, is the pioneering visionary who introduced the world to mezcal over 20 years ago. Before his tireless efforts to distribute mezcal around the globe, it was a relatively unknown drink in spite of being...
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Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512-E, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Mexican food is extremely varied, and even just considering the cuisine of the state of Oaxaca, there is great diversity. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec is where the land thins to the narrowest strip between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean....
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Calle de Tinoco y Palacios 414, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This little cafe-bar caught my eye because the sign outside says "Chocolateria - Mezcaleria". Chocolate and mezcal is a winning combination in my book, but their menu goes well beyond that. We tried a few types of tapas, a pasta dish and a salad....
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José María Morelos (Av. Morelos) 511, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, OAX, Mexico
Mezcal lovers will delight in this mezcaleria that has over 100 different kinds to sample. Owner Ulisses Torrentera has written a few books and several articles about mezcal and he is on hand to discuss the complexities of his favorite drink. In...
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Calle de Mariano Abasolo 121, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that's not the only type of mole you'll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich...
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Reforma 402, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Run by the talented Chef Pilar Cabrera, who also offers cooking classes through Casa de los Sabores, La Olla is an unpretentious restaurant offering Oaxacan specialties. Head to the upper-level dining room, which is more spacious than the ground...
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Calle de Manuel García Vigil 105, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Most of Oaxaca's better restaurants are quite new, but La Catedral has been around since 1976. It is a Oaxaca institution, and besides reliably tasty food, you can also expect a lovely atmosphere and seamless service. You can pick a spot in one of...
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Cjon. Boca del Monte 121, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca is referred to as a World Food Capital for good reason; the nuanced palates of its citizens and their never-ending celebration of the region's ingredients, recipes, and traditions results in a feast that begins the moment you jumpstart your...
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Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 616, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
La Casa de La Abuela is a Oaxaca mainstay, on the corner between the Zocalo and the Alameda, Oaxaca's two central squares. Find the entrance on Hidalgo street, and climb the steps up to the second floor. As soon as you enter you'll see a big clay...
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Domicilioiconocido s/n, San Sebastián de las flores, 68259 San Pablo Etla, Oax., Mexico
This huge buffet restaurant, designed to look like an old hacienda, offers more than 120 dishes every day. Hacienda Santa Martha has extensive grounds with play areas for kids, an artificial pond with pedal boats, and even movies for kids...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 202, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 17th century mansion that houses Oaxaca's contemporary art museum is commonly referred to as "La Casa de Cortes," although it was in fact built over a century after the death of Hernan Cortes, it is certainly lavish enough to have been worthy...
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Miguel Hidalgo 917, Centro Histórico, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's textile museum opened its doors in 2008. The museum is set in a lovely restored colonial mansion in Oaxaca city's historical center on the same grounds as the San Pablo cultural center. The museum celebrates Oaxaca's rich and varied...
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Monte Albán, Oax., Mexico
The Zapotec ruled above the Valley of Oaxaca from their hilltop capital, named Monte Alban. Any visit to Oaxaca should include a tour of these impressive ruins. The native people living in Oaxaca today can trace their heritage directly back to the...
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Cerro de la campana, Santa María Atzompa, Oax., Mexico
On a hilltop adjacent to Monte Alban, just outside the city of Oaxaca, there is an archaeological site that has just recently been excavated. Atzompa was a satellite city of the great Zapotec capital of Monte Alban. The site provides breathtaking...
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Flores Magón s/n, Local 30-31, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
While wandering through Oaxaca's markets, you'll probably spot large clay basins filled with a liquid that's topped with a beige foam. This is tejate, a drink that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. It's made with cocoa beans, maize, the seed of...
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Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico
Teotitlan del Valle is world-renowned for its production of high quality woven goods. The weaving tradition in this village dates back to ancient times, when they paid tribute to the Aztecs in weavings, although at that time they wove mostly...
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Latin America
Mitla is located in the Oaxaca Valley, just a short distance from Oaxaca City. However you get there, it’s worth the visit. It’s not a large site; an hour and a half will be more than enough time to walk around. There are so many things that set...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Los Danzantes is a hip restaurant offering contemporary Mexican cuisine. It’s located on Alcalá street, in the same building that houses the Oro de Monte Alban jewelry store. It’s in a large partially covered patio space, with...
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Elsa, 68010 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Beyond Mitla is the beautiful site of Hierve el Agua: natural mineral pools and petrified waterfalls. We took a collectivo taxi up the windy road from Mitla, paid the entrance fee and spent two hours hiking, swimming and taking in the breathtaking...
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RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
This handicraft shop in the center of Oaxaca is run by a group of women artisans. It's one of the best places in town to purchase well-priced handicrafts, and it's satisfying to know that the profits go to the women who produce the pieces. Walk...
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A Gurrión 108, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
In response to the popularity of a large chain of coffee shops in Mexico selling "Italian" coffee, this family of coffee producers set up a little shop near Santo Domingo church and called it The Oaxacan Coffee Company. Here they proudly serve...