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Oaxaca and Puebla

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Juárez Maza s/n, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca, AGS, Mexico
Oaxaca is a world culinary capital for good reason and there is no better place to indulge in all the recipes, ingredients, and traditions of the region than at Central de Abastos, Oaxaca City's main market. It's easy to accidentally spend an...
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Calle de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
These large, thick tortillas are called "tlayudas" and they're a Oaxaca specialty that you're unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They're prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called...
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Portal Las Flores 3, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
This white tablecloth restaurant on the second floor above the Zocalo is more upscale than other options around the plaza. It opened in 2013, and the floor to ceiling open windows allow all diners to enjoy the views; though from farther back you...
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Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Tlacolula is the largest town in the Eastern arm of the Oaxaca valley. Market day in this town is on Sundays and on this one day of the week hordes of people come to town from nearby villages to buy, sell, and socialize. You'll find all kinds of...
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Carretera a Tlacolula 190 Km 17, San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, Oax., Mexico
This small archaeological site is situated on a hillside about 12 miles east of Oaxaca city. The name "Dainzú" means "hill of the organ cactus" in Zapotec, although that most certainly was not the original name. The site was occupied in very early...
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Diaz Ordaz 712, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
You can find Cuish brand mezcal in a few establishments in Oaxaca city, but head to their own tasting bar located on the outskirts of the city center to learn what this brand stands for. They offer mezcal that is artisanally produced from several...
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20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
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Km. 3, Carr. Internacional, Cerro del Fortín, Faldas del Fortin, 68030 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Enjoy some of the best views of Oaxaca city while you dine on local specialties such as tlayudas and parrilladas. Come for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just for drinks. It’s open from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., and the view is great any time of day. El...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Los Danzantes is a hip restaurant offering contemporary Mexican cuisine. It’s located on Alcalá street, in the same building that houses the Oro de Monte Alban jewelry store. It’s in a large partially covered patio space, with...
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Calle de Manuel García Vigil 105, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Most of Oaxaca's better restaurants are quite new, but La Catedral has been around since 1976. It is a Oaxaca institution, and besides reliably tasty food, you can also expect a lovely atmosphere and seamless service. You can pick a spot in one of...
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Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512-E, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Mexican food is extremely varied, and even just considering the cuisine of the state of Oaxaca, there is great diversity. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec is where the land thins to the narrowest strip between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean....
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Calle de Mariano Abasolo 121, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that's not the only type of mole you'll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich...
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Violetas 200, Reforma, 68050 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
It makes sense that you feel like you've been invited for dinner at someone's home at La Teca. You have. The restaurant is a part of the chef and owner's house located in a nondescript neighborhood about 15 minutes form the central district of ...
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Gral. Manuel García Vigil 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
We hung out at La Biznaga Restaurant a few times while in Oaxaca. We ate dinner there twice—the main courses were a bit too big, so I'd steer anyone who's asking toward the delicious appetizers. They're also open all afternoon and they have...
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Democracia 18, PRIMERA ETAPA, Ricardo Flores Magon, 68058 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Breakfasts in Mexico are a lot more interesting than eggs and toast. Start with a cafe de olla (coffee made in a clay pot with brown sugar and cinnamon) or hot chocolate with bread to dunk in it, then move on to the main course. A lot of the...
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20 de Noviembre Loc. 39, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you'll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full...
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I recently visited Oaxaca, Mexico with the chef Alex Stupak and his wife Lauren Resler, co-owners of the Empellon restaurants in New York City. Markets are a passion for Oaxacans and Alex and Lauren would happily spend every waking minute of their...
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Av Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, 68050 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Its name means "flower of the corn" and this little eatery in Oaxaca's Colonia Reforma offers local snacks and dishes prepared with a few different varieties of organic heirloom corn. Besides the ubiquitous quesadillas, tacos and memelas, Itanoni...
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As you approach Mina street, just south of the 20 de Noviembre market in Oaxaca, the smell of chocolate fills the air. There are several chocolate grinding shops along this street. One of the most popular is Chocolate Mayordomo, where you can...
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Flores Magón s/n, Local 30-31, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
While wandering through Oaxaca's markets, you'll probably spot large clay basins filled with a liquid that's topped with a beige foam. This is tejate, a drink that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. It's made with cocoa beans, maize, the seed of...
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Oaxaca, Mexico
Mezcal is Oaxaca's smokey spirit of choice and one of the best places to try it is at the mezcaleria Los Amantes in Oaxaca City. The walls of the funky space on Allende 107 in the historical district are lined with dozens of clay pots that were...
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De la Danza SN, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
In Oaxaca, shaved ice is fittingly referred to as nieve which means snow in Mexican. Large tin buckets filled with water and flavoring are typically spun by hand in a bed of ice resulting in a dizzying variety of nieve. One of the best places to...