Deborah Goldblatt’s Oaxaca
Collected by Deborah Goldblatt
5 de Mayo 300, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The building dates back to the 16th century when it served as the convent of Santa Catalina. Now it houses the Quinta Real hotel, which maintains quiet shaded spaces and tranquil gardens designed to promote contemplation, as well as some of the...
Calle Macedonio Alcalá 202, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, OAX, Mexico
The 17th century mansion that houses Oaxaca's contemporary art museum is commonly referred to as "La Casa de Cortes," although it was in fact built over a century after the death of Hernan Cortes, it is certainly lavish enough to have been worthy...
Calle de Mariano Abasolo 300, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
"For the best mole, I head to the 100-seat Quince Letras, where Celia Florian makes it both in the traditional style and in new ways. Her Spanish-style mole with almonds and olives is delicious," says Chef Rosio Sanchez. This appeared in the...
Reforma 402, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Light and color are two words that best describe Casa de Las Bugambilias, or House of the Bougainvillea, a bed-and-breakfast inn in Oaxaca's Centro neighborhood. Every bit of the house, inside and out, is vibrant, thanks to vividly-hued textiles,...
20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
Av Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, 68050 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Breakfast at Oaxaca's famous Itanoni starts with fresh squeezed juice served in mini milk bottles. We chose pineapple, papaya and orange. You could tell the juice was freshly pressed from all the delicious pulp floating around glass. It was a...
José María Morelos (Av. Morelos) 511, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, OAX, Mexico
Mezcal lovers will delight in this mezcaleria that has over 100 different kinds to sample. Owner Ulisses Torrentera has written a few books and several articles about mezcal and he is on hand to discuss the complexities of his favorite drink. In...
Calle de Tinoco y Palacios 414, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This little cafe-bar caught my eye because the sign outside says "Chocolateria - Mezcaleria". Chocolate and mezcal is a winning combination in my book, but their menu goes well beyond that. We tried a few types of tapas, a pasta dish and a salad....
Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 616, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
La Casa de La Abuela is a Oaxaca mainstay, on the corner between the Zocalo and the Alameda, Oaxaca's two central squares. Find the entrance on Hidalgo street, and climb the steps up to the second floor. As soon as you enter you'll see a big clay...
Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
Los Baúles de Juana Cata is a must-stop for anyone interested in high quality textiles. The boutique is run by Remigio Mestas Revilla, who is devoted to reviving and preserving lost or disappearing textile techniques. He works directly with...
Calle de Armenta y López 215, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's Macedonio Alcalá theater was built between 1903 and 1909. It is striking from the outside, but the interior is even more impressive, with a marble staircase and paintings on the domed ceiling and walls. The cafe on the theater premises is...
Flores Magón s/n, Local 30-31, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
While wandering through Oaxaca's markets, you'll probably spot large clay basins filled with a liquid that's topped with a beige foam. This is tejate, a drink that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. It's made with cocoa beans, maize, the seed of...
Calle de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
These large, thick tortillas are called "tlayudas" and they're a Oaxaca specialty that you're unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They're prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called...
OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
Walking through Oaxaca's markets, it's hard not to be a little overwhelmed by the abundance and diversity of items on display. Piles of fresh produce, quantities of beautiful handcrafted objects, baskets of spicy chapulines (grasshoppers), stacks...
Santo Tomás Jalieza, Oaxaca, Mexico
The weavers in Teotitlan del Valle may be more renowned, but the backstrap loom weavers of Santo Tomás Jalieza are practicing the art in a way that dates back to very ancient times. The local market is set up in the main square and every day you...
Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Lambityeco rose to prominence around the time of the decline the great Zapotec capital Monte Alban, roughly 700 A.D. The site was originally excavated in the 1960s, although some restoration work has been done since that time. Among the buildings...
Miguel Hidalgo 917, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's textile museum opened its doors in 2008. The museum is set in a lovely restored colonial mansion in Oaxaca city's historical center on the same grounds as the San Pablo cultural center. The museum celebrates Oaxaca's rich and varied...
Calle de La Constitución 108, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
In response to the popularity of a large chain of coffee shops in Mexico selling "Italian" coffee, this family of coffee producers set up a little shop near Santo Domingo church and called it The Oaxacan Coffee Company. Here they proudly serve...
RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
This handicraft shop in the center of Oaxaca is run by a group of women artisans. It's one of the best places in town to purchase well-priced handicrafts, and it's satisfying to know that the profits go to the women who produce the pieces. Walk...
Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Housed in the former Dominican convent of Santo Domingo, the museum of Oaxacan cultures offers a glimpse at the state's history from ancient times through the colonial period, and into the modern day. The building was beautifully restored and...
Labastida 115, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Cafe Los Cuiles is a casual coffeehouse located in Plaza los Virgenes right in the center of Oaxaca. It's a great spot for a coffee and breakfast, to take a break from sightseeing or to catch up on your email. Have some "enfrijoladas" or a waffle...
Diaz Ordaz 712, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
You can find Cuish brand mezcal in a few establishments in Oaxaca city, but head to their own tasting bar located on the outskirts of the city center to learn what this brand stands for. They offer mezcal that is artisanally produced from several...
Av. José María Morelos 503, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This museum is housed in a restored 18th-century mansion and contains the private collection of pre-Hispanic art of Oaxacan artist Rufino Tamayo. He collected these objects on his travels through Mexico, and he wanted to be sure that this heritage...
Av. de la Independencia 607, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The fact that Oaxaca is a hub of art and creativity is evident almost everywhere you look. Besides the abundance of beautiful architecture and colorful folk art and handicrafts, several important contemporary artists hail from Oaxaca, including...
Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, Mexico
This small village just east of Mitla has a large sign declaring it the world capital of mezcal. Here you'll be able to see the whole process of how mezcal is made from harvesting the agave plant to distillation. There's a wide variety of...
Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
Ron Cooper, founder of Del Maguey mezcal, is the pioneering visionary who introduced the world to mezcal over 20 years ago. Before his tireless efforts to distribute mezcal around the globe, it was a relatively unknown drink in spite of being...
Cjon. Boca del Monte 121, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca is referred to as a World Food Capital for good reason; the nuanced palates of its citizens and their never-ending celebration of the region's ingredients, recipes, and traditions results in a feast that begins the moment you jumpstart your...
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