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joan ryzner’s new orleans

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2645 Toulouse St, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA
Six years after Hurricane Katrina, nearly 200 families in New Orleans are still living in FEMA trailers. The St. Bernard Parish, located about 10 miles from downtown, was one of the communities most severely affected. The St. Bernard Project, a...
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734 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA
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You don't need to work hard to explore New Orleans' diverse architecture. Take a walk around the French Quarter and you'll see Creole cottages and pre-Civil War townhouses with wrought-iron balconies. Hop on a street car and take in the antebellum...
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514 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Little-known fact: New Orleans was the first place in North America to license pharmacists (starting in 1769, when the city was still under Spanish rule). After Louisiana became a territory, the U.S. governor extended the requirement, also...
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615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
As the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, St. Louis Cathedral is something you won't want to miss on your trip through the Big Easy. Enjoy the spiritual splendor of the interior, then meander the laid-back streets...
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Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA, USA
Some find this narrow, neon-lit French Quarter street appealing, others appalling. But it’s worth a stroll either way. It’s as if all the sins of mankind and then some were rounded up and corralled here—tawdry strip shows, cheap...
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623 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
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This Frenchmen Street landmark offers up a steady parade of remarkable local musicians from late afternoon until early morning, with an emphasis on foot-tapping traditional and swing jazz. Musicians play on a low stage against the front window;...
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2401 St Ann St, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA
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“Well, we’ll see about that!” loudly harrumphs an endless of stream of out-of-town customers, eager to challenge the claim that Willie Mae’s makes “the world’s best fried chicken.” They’re usually...
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800 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
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Café Du Monde is always open; it’s the clientele that changes—from visiting families and local pensioners early in the morning, to couples in the evening, to Bourbon Street refugees looking for coffee and ballast in the...
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900 Convention Center Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
After taking a wrong turn and stumbling upon the New Orleans Convention Center, I noticed an interesting nearby sculpture. The public art piece, a house in a tree, is a memorial for Hurricane Katrina. Artist Sally Heller created this sculpture...
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700 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
A National Historic Landmark that has also been named one of America’s Great Public Spaces, Jackson Square is the historic heart of New Orleans. Under the French, it went by the name the Place d’Armes and it wasn’t until the...
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209 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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Lunch is the time to visit Galatoire's—a sight and scene for all senses. Well-respected locals come to dine and celebrate, and the joie de vivre (especially on a Friday afternoon) is unparalleled.
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726 St Peter St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
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Preservation Hall occupies a worn Creole town house that was originally built as a home in the early 19th century, and that had evolved into an art gallery and performance space by 1961. (It was founded by a man of philanthropic bent who fretted...
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1433 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
There are three old streetcar lines that run in New Orleans. We enjoyed a ride down St. Charles, the oldest of the lines. The trains were beautifully worn originals and gave us a glance at the front of many beautiful old homes. There were also a...
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1332 Washington Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
The Garden District was developed in the middle 19th century, and is where the mercantile elite built their in-town estates. Unlike the narrow parcels of the French Quarter or surrounding neighborhoods, house lots here were divided up with just...
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2800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
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Exposed brick, dark wood and plenty of natural light beget the handsome space at Coquette, which occupies an unassuming corner on Magazine Street in the tony Garden District. Chef Michael Stoltzfus marries his Eastern Shore sensibilities (crab...
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1400 Washington Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
New Orleans' cemeteries are part of the city's culture as well as its landscape—and St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is the oldest and most famous. Opened in 1789 on the edge of the French Quarter, the cemetery is home to the tomb of Marie Laveau, a...
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634 Elysian Fields Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117, USA
In case you've ever wondered what it's like to drink your way up Bourbon Street on a bike, Confederacy of Cruisers can provide the answer. As one of only two ways to speed through the city with an open container (the other way is on a horse), bike...
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540 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Street performers abound here. Their outfits can be as varied as the instruments they play. I had no idea what the young fellow was playing on. His lady companion was as enthusiastic as he was concentrated. And then there was a new sight on the...
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734 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA
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The Satchmo Summerfest is a free festival in the French Quarter. Great food and music. If your are in NOLA when it's happening, definitely check it out. You will not be disappointed.
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Oak St, New Orleans, LA 70118, USA
The weekend before Thanksgiving, you will find the Po'boy Festival out on Oak Street. Best sandwich ever...until you try a
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813 Bienville St, New Orleans, LA 70112, USA
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Arnaud's Restaurant has been serving classic Creole cuisine in the French Quarter since 1918. After having a craft cocktail in their French 75 vintage lounge (once an all-gentleman's club when it first opened), head into their main dining room to...
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144 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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Bourbon House is one of New Orleans' best restaurants, serving fresh seafood (oysters topped with caviar!) and dishes made with local ingredients. In fact, over 70% of ingredients are sourced within 150 miles. Moreover, Bourbon House is passionate...
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723 Dante St, New Orleans, LA 70118, USA
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No one ever left New Orleans hungry. Since the dawn of the Delta, food has been more a part of local culture here than any other cosmopolitan city in America. It’s a matter of respect, because whatever comes out of the kitchen in New Orleans will...
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1403 Washington Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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Chef Tory McPhail was recently named James Beard's Best Chef South and his forward-looking take on Creole classics keeps this New Orleans institution, which has launched the careers of the likes of Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, current....
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221 Camp St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Alan Walter, the new(ish) creative director at Loa, the bar at the International House, was stamping menus (on vintage game boards) when I wandered in. I was intrigued by his foppish hair and 70s style ensemble – and even more intrigued by...
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Bywater, New Orleans, LA, USA
The French Quarter, the Central Business District, and the Garden District are well-trodden neighborhoods—and it's there that you'll find the largest concentration of hotels, restaurants, and bars. But it's worth checking out the rest of the city,...
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130 Roosevelt Way, New Orleans, LA 70112, USA
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A Sazerac is composed of whiskey and absinthe, and nowhere sports classier digs for this signature cocktail than the Sazerac Bar of the Roosevelt Hotel in downtown New Orleans, where the low lights flow over heavy wood tables and the big leather...
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214 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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What a trippy and unique experience. Tourists and locals alike are crowded shoulder to shoulder on this revolving carnival ride, ordering drinks with exotic names like Vieux Carré, London Fairy, and Corpse Reviver. And Sazeracs, of course....
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718 St Peter St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
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No trip to New Orleans would be complete without a visit to Pat O'Briens for a Hurricane. The story goes that in the 1940s, because it was difficult to import scotch during WWII, bar owners were forced to buy large amounts of rum and the...
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600 Central Ave SE A, Albuquerque, NM 87102, USA
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What really drew me to this place was that they serve Intelligentsia Coffee and when you've been driving through desert for a couple days with only Starbucks to fall back on, this was a no brainer. What was even better was that the food was...
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Marigny, New Orleans, LA, USA
Walking along Royal St. after a night of parades and came across this row house all dolled for the season.
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1205 N Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
New Orleans has heart unlike any city in America. The spirit and resilience of the locals is palpable and the heritage is historic and deep. Jazzfest highlights the unbreakable spirit and the music just makes you want to dance...laissez le...
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6500 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70118, USA
Audubon Park sits on the site of a former sugar plantation—the only plantation in the city that wasn’t subsequently developed for homes or businesses. It’s about 25 minutes via streetcar from downtown, but feels a world apart,...
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6500 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70118, USA
A nice diversion in the Big Easy is the Audubon Zoo. Take the streetcar through neighborhoods lined with moss-covered trees to this lovely park, and visit with some amazing animals!
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New Orleans, LA 70114, USA
If you're looking for some quiet time while visiting New Orleans (what?), consider heading across the river to Algiers Point—a residential section of New Orleans on the west bank of the Mississippi River, full of Creole cottages and other...
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423 Canal St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Insects are beautiful... insects are creepy. Get your fill of both sides of the coin during a visit to the Insectarium on Canal Street. On the beautiful side, there are the gorgeous iridescent butterfly specimens on display, and of course the...
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New Orleans, LA, USA
French Quarter Fest is billed as the largest free concert in the South and features local musicians of varied genres. Over the course of four days in April, you can experience all kinds of music, by over 100 performers scattered throughout the...
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1380 Port of New Orleans Pl, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
On the banks of the Mississippi River lies Mardi Gras World, a working warehouse for the building and storage of Mardi Gras floats. Visitors can take an hour-long tour of the facility, which shows the floats in various stages of creation. Pieces...
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1 Canal St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
The Audubon Aquarium of the Americas has some beautifully done exhibits, but the most exciting was the stingray touch pool. At certain times of the day you are allowed to touch the stingrays. (They feel like salamanders!) If you pay a small fee,...
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1116 Henriette Delille St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
The Mardi Gras American Indian culture is one of the lesser-known elements of New Orleans life, but it’s been part of the African American experience in the city for well over a century. How it began remains the subject of debate. ("Masking"...
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2121 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
Experiencing onstage access to Kiss during Halloween in New Orleans is like floating in a sea of rich, creamy ice cream while guzzling your favorite latte from a gallon pitcher. The epitome of rock n roll is characterized by the shot I finally got...
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900 Convention Center Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
These Crabmeat Donuts with Avocado Shooters were one of myriad scrumptious tastes I sampled at the Grand Tasting of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, held over a spring weekend at the Morial Convention Center.
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1751 Gentilly Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA
I already adore New Orleans, and the combination of music, food and culture at jazzfest is irresistible. This year, between Kermit Ruffins’ upbeat trad jazz set and rowdy Rebirth Brass Band, I visited the long lanes of food stalls painted like...
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1 Collins Diboll Cir, New Orleans, LA 70124, USA
This is the oldest and grandest art institute in a city that’s long captivated artists. The Neoclassical building sits amid the greenery of massive City Park (conveniently at the end of the Canal Streetcar Line). It’s an especially...
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Collins Diboll Cir, New Orleans, LA 70124, USA
Located in the New Orleans Museum of Art, this Ralph Brennan Restaurant features light, artisanal meals made with local ingredients. Some choices include house-cured salmon bruschetta, turkey bacon panini, roasted chicken salad, homemade chicken...
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3494 Esplanade Ave, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA
One interesting way to explore New Orleans history is by kayaking on Bayou St. John with Kayak-iti-yat. Not only will you get to see an array of birdlife and interesting fish, but you'll explore local neighborhoods and learn about the history of...
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130 Roosevelt Way, New Orleans, LA 70112, USA
New Orleans is all aglitter for the holiday season, and the block-long lobby of the Roosevelt Hotel is no exception.
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300 Gravier St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
This English-inspired hotel has been the place to stay in New Orleans for basically forever—well, since it opened in 1984, at least. It’s plush without being pompous, stately without being too serious, though it should be said that...
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300 Poydras St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Despite its location in a former office building in the CBD, this 285-room hotel has more personality than you might expect: the marble, polished wood, and stained glass-clad lobby is just the right balance of modern and grand, while local...
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925 Camp St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
The three floors of art on display at the Ogden, one of a handful of museums in the city's off-the-radar museum district near Lee Circle, run the gamut from Clementine Hunter's paintings of plantation life to Shelby Lee Adam's photographs of...
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120 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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LARGEST HAT STORE IN THE SOUTH proclaims the sign in front of Meyer the Hatter, just off Canal Street on St. Charles Avenue. In truth, it actually doesn’t feel all that big inside. That’s in part because it’s so packed with hats,...
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2036 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
My first advice to anyone visiting New Orleans is always the same: explore the wonderful neighborhoods outside of the French Quarter. Take the St. Charles Avenue streetcar and when you're tired of gawking at the Garden District mansions, hop off...
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5631 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
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BE A NEW ORLEANIAN. WHEREVER YOU ARE. read the ubiquitous bumper sticker in the years after Hurricane Katrina. It was a simple, direct, and on-target message—the sort that’s been perfected by this T-shirt shop, with stores uptown on...
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624 Pirate Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
The former home of William Faulkner (where he wrote Soldiers' Pay), this tiny bookstore is full of rare and first editions, plus New Orleans literature, and new bestsellers.
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2048 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
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Trashy Diva started as a vintage clothing store and evolved into a vintage-inspired clothing line.
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610 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Located in the French Quarter for nearly three decades, Lucullus stocks what it terms "culinary antiques": objects that glorify gastronomy. You can browse finds from the 17th through 19th centuries—everything from handblown-glass rolling...
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411 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
There's no shortage of antique shops in the French Quarter, but this Royal Street spot is a local go-to for French and English antiques, including period jewelry, oyster plates, and crystal chandeliers (for hanging in your Garden district mansion,...
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2043 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Neighboring shops Green Serene and Spruce offer eco-friendly threads, home decor, and objets d'arts.
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3029 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
Skip the cheesy French Quarter T-shirt shops in favor of this Garden District spot. Designs come from online design contests, and tees are printed daily.
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5423 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
Stock up on Fleur de Lys note cards, glossy coffee-table books, and leather-bound journals. Gator wrapping paper? They've got that, too.
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5422 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
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Drop in for a yoga class or pick up Lululemon tops, Klean Kanteen water bottles, and Jade yoga mats at this Uptown studio-cum-boutique.
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5521 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
The front of this gallery-like shop is dedicated to luxurious linens, Diptyque candles, and hand-blown glassware. In the back, the closet-size collection of items from labels like Dosa, Trelise Cooper, and Emma Hope is a fashionable find.
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5525 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
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This uptown boutique, co-owned by Mad Men's Bryan Batt (Salvatore Romano) and actor-turned-Bally of Switzerland buyer Tom Cianfichi, is a well-curated collection of decoupage serving plates, beaded clutches, and toile throw pillows. When I visited...
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The six-block-long French Market is full of vendors peddling knickknacks, pralines and beignet mix, and boozy, frozen beverages to go. There's a daily open-air flea market from 9 am-6 pm, and a farmers market each Wednesday that features live...
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124 Baronne St, New Orleans, LA 70112, USA
This two-story book shop in a historic townhouse on Chartres Street specializes in rare and out-of-print tomes, antique maps, and old prints.
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1452 N Broad St C, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA
This culinary bookshop is crammed with cookbooks old and new, from first editions by Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme to John Besh's latest tome.