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Naples

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Piazza San Gaetano, 68, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Naples is a tale of two cities. Underground lies a 450 kilometer labyrinth of chambers and tunnels dating back to the 4th century B.C.E., formed when the Greeks extracted tufa stone to build ancient Neapolis. The Romans incorporated the tunnels...
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Santa Chiara’s interior is a serene, luminous space that provides a perfect setting for some fabulous Angevin funerary sculpture, most notably the tomb of Robert d’Anjou (1343-45) by the Florentine Bertini brothers which towers above the main...
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Piazza San Gaetano, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
The austere appearance of this 13th-century church is a perfect antidote to an overload of dripping gilt and inlaid marble. The wide nave is flanked by elegant Gothic arches and some fine tombs, and the apse displays a beautiful cross-vaulted...
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Via Eldorado, 3, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
The fortified Ovo (or "egg") Castle stands on the island of Megaris, a port created by the inhabitants of ancient Parthenope. The common legend explaining the name is that when the Roman poet Virgil stayed here in the 1st century B.C.E., he buried...
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Via S. Gregorio Armeno, 1, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Housing the relics of Saints Gregory and Patricia (whose blood ‘liquifies’ each Tuesday), 16th-century San Gregorio was built on the site of a Roman temple and is one of the finest examples of Baroque style in the city. Among the lavish...
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Via dei Tribunali, 253, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
This small octagonal church was built for an institution founded in 1601 by local aristocrats. Their charitable acts are illustrated in Caravaggio’s famous altarpiece, Seven Acts of Mercy, a superb example of the artist’s chiaroscuro style in...
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Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
For art accompanied by fabulous city views, head up to the hilltop Vomero neighborhood and the vast 14th-century monastery of San Martino. The complex incorporates a glorious Baroque church decorated with intricate marble intarsia work, an art...
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Piazza del Plebiscito, 1, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
In its heyday in the 18th and early 19th century, Naples was one of the most important cities in Europe, and the dimensions and splendor of the Royal Palace are reminders of that era. You can visit the lavish Royal Apartments (accessed via a...
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Via San Carlo, 98, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Begun in 1737 by the Bourbons (who were great opera buffs) but rebuilt after a fire destroyed it in 1816, this is Italy’s largest opera house and one of Europe’s most prestigious. Its magnificent interior, done out in splendid red and gold,...
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Via Duomo, 228, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Dedicated to Naples’s patron saint, the medieval cathedral of San Gennaro is hidden behind a bland, pseudo-Gothic facade. But the dimly lit interior is splendid, home to paintings by Luca Giordano and his followers and topped by a magnificent gilt...
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Via de Sanctis Francesco, 19/21, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
This chapel was built as the funerary monument of the noble di Sangro family in 1590, but re-vamped in the 1750s by the eccentric Prince Raimondo who hired the most renowned artists of the day to decorate the building. The most famous of the...
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Via Alfonso D'Aragona, 19, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
Long popular with actors and film-people (director Federico Fellini used to eat here), Mimi is one of those classic places that serves consistently reliable food in comfortable surroundings. The menu favors fish: Start with the spaghetti alle...
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Piazza Carità, 4, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Established in 1933 by the present owner’s grandfather, this old-fashioned place serves some of the best ice cream in the city. The flavors vary with the seasons. Autumnal tastes include walnut, chestnut and fig, while in summer fruit flavors...
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Via Alabardieri, 30, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Situated in the picturesque grid of narrow streets in the waterfront district of Chiaia, this restaurant and pizzeria is a classic. Choose from the extensive menu (octopus, potato and black olive salad; rigatoni with fish sauce; roast veal with...
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Borgo Marinari, 10/11, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
There can be few more pleasurable spots in Naples to enjoy a lazy lunch on a sunny day than on the Bersagliera’s elegant terrace overlooking the marina and the Castel dell’Ovo. Mussel and clam soup is a specialty, or you could try the house...
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Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
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This traditional Chiaia osteria is a Neapolitan institution. Noisy, chaotic and cramped, it’s full of character and serves up excellent home-cooking. You may have to wait for—and share—a table, but the quality of dishes such as carne alla...
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Riviera di Chiaia, 287, 80122 Napoli NA, Italy
Marinella’s ties—all handmade from the finest silks—have graced the necks of kings, movie stars and politicians. Choose the silk you fancy and they will make it up for you: The company makes around 150 ties per day, but takes orders for around...
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Via Chiaia, 32, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
The upmarket neighborhood of Chiaia hugs the curve of Naples’s waterfront from the ancient Castel dell’Ovo to Mergellina in the west. The long seafront promenade is a classic Neapolitan stroll, and the Villa Comunale park is popular with kids on a...
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Naples is famous for presepi: elaborate and complex nativity scenes that can reach huge dimensions. The tradition is now based around Via San Gregorio Armeno, which is lined with shops selling everything to make your own version.
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For gourmet goodies, this smart supermarket has lots of choices. The deli counter is laden with tempting treats such as the provolone da Monaco cheese, puffy clouds of fresh mozzarella and black casertano ham. There are bottles of olive oil and...
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Tramontano’s leather goods—all made by local artisans—are both functional and fashionable, with bags, briefcases, belts and accessories made from natural leathers and finished with chunky buckles. This family business was founded well over a...
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Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, 18, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
The interior of Santa Chiara is a serene, luminous space that provides a perfect setting for its fabulous Angevin funerary sculpture, most notably the tomb of Robert d’Anjou (1343-45) towering over the main altar, and created by the Florentine...
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Via Chiaia, 1/2, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
The most famous café in town, this historic spot oozes period charm and maintains much of its original Belle Epoque decor. The main bar is for stand-up coffees and aperitivi, but there are several cozy salons for a sit-down treat. The terrace is a...
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Capodichino Air Base, Via Le F. Ruffo - Capodichino, 0, 80144 Napoli NA, Italy
A magical tiny store which operates as a hospital for dolls from all over the world. I was fortunate to meet Titiana Grassi, a 4th generation in the family business, which was established in 1890. The founder, Luigi Grassi, was making marionettes...
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Via S. Gregorio Armeno, 8, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Giuseppe Marco Ferrigno is one of the most known for its Neapolitan terracotta traditional characters. Started also as a family business since 1838, Ferrigno family passes the mastering of traditional terracotta figures from one generation to...
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Centro Direzionale Isola E7, 80143 Napoli NA, Italy
As someone who is always looking for a chocolate stores while traveling to different places, I was thrilled to find Gay Odin. I’ve been eating good chocolates in different places in the world but Gay Odin is by far, the BEST chocolate I’ve ever...
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Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
Naples is known for its pizza. No wonder Julia Roberts went all the way to Naples to have a relationship with her pizza it in the movie ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. If you want to see the location of the scene, visit L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele. This place...
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Via San Carlo, 15, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
I just love the huge space and the glass ceiling of Galleria Umberto. It is located across from Teatro di San Carlo and despite its modern look, I was surprised to find out that it was built between 1887–1891. The Galleria was named for Umberto I,...
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Piazza del Plebiscito, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
San Francesco di Paola Church is located in Piazza del Plebiscito, which is one of the largest squares in Naples. The Church was constructed as an imitation to the Pantheon in Roma and was built as a tribute to Napoleon. It is one of the elegant...
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Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, 2, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Church of Gesù Nuovo (New Jesus) is considered as the most important church in Naples. Located in the Gesù Nuovo Square, the church was originally a Palace built in 1470 for Roberto Sanseverino, Prince of Salerno. In the 1580′s the Palace was sold...
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Piazzetta Nilo, 23, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Piazzetta Nilo Known also as Largo Corpo di Napoli, got its name from the statue of the Nile God. The Piazzetta is located in the Historic center of Naples, which is considered the first historic core of the city. (Naples was declared a World...
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Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Street foods and pizza are Neapolitan hallmarks. But at Veritas Restaurant in Naples, the menu is quite an upgrade from the city's every day fare. Open from October through May, Veritas locals come here on 'special occasions', even as the...
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What exactly is Gran Gusto? Is it a high end supermarket? An enoteca? A restaurant? A bar? A pizzeria? Well, it's really all of those things under one roof. A sort of culinary hive where, in the restauant and enoteca, you can find over 1200 wines,...
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Piazza Museo, 19, 80135 Napoli NA, Italy
This museum is probably the best one that you've never heard of (unfortunately). It has more Greco-Roman antiquities than I've seen in more well-known sites and its various treasures will keep you occupied while escaping summer's heat. Even if you...
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Viale Cavalleggeri D'Aosta, 84, 80124 Napoli NA, Italy

Pescheria Mattiucci is a fish store by day that transforms itself into a small standing-room-only restaurant a few nights of the week. Mattiucci is an old family operation, but this place is the brainchild of a young son, Luigi Mattiucci. Luigi...

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Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy

New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps...

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Via Pignasecca, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
La Pignasecca is renowned for its abundance of cheese, pastry, and fresh fish stalls. As you shop, don’t miss snacking on the biscuits (tarrale) from Panificio Vincenzo Coppola. Open daily, Via Pignasecca. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples...
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Riviera di Chiaia, 269, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Antonella Rossi and her husband, Corrado, offer seasonal locavore takes on traditional Neapolitan fare such as green zucchini with squid sauteed in olive oil with lavender. 39/081-552-2266. Read Tom Downey's "Tailor Made in Naples."
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Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
A Naples legend well before Julia Roberts (in Eat, Pray, Love) gave it celebrity sheen, Da Michele was opened by the Condurro family in 1930. The only pizzas are marinara and margherita, and they are pure classics. 39/081-553-9204. Read Tom...
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Via Duomo, 61, 80138 NAPLES, NA, Italy
Due to a transportation problem, my wife and I had less time than expected to explore Naples. We took to the side streets to try to get a quick feel for the city, and our experience was truly memorable. The streets were alive with activity and the...
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Via Francesco Caracciolo, Napoli NA, Italy
Via Caracciolo is one of the most beautiful and panoramic streets in the world. It has recently been made carfree, so pedestrians can enjoy walking, running, biking and skating nearby the sea. Grab your best shoes and walk from the majestic Castel...
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Via Vergini, 19, 80137 Napoli NA, Italy
Walk along Via Vergini in one of the most frenetic districts in Naples and look for the amazing Palazzo dello Spagnolo. This historical palace was built in 1738 and the beautiful staircase is a gem of Neapolitan baroque. Just outside of the...