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Calle de Manuel García Vigil 407, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Small and intimate, Hotel Casa Oaxaca feels quintessentially Oaxacan: It’s colonial in style, with whitewashed walls contrasting with vivid pops of carnelian red and fuchsia. It’s surrounded by local vegetation. And it’s filled...
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Calle de Mariano Abasolo, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro Histórico, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Azul de Oaxaca Hotel + Galeria is among the numerous lodging options in the city's colonial Centro neighborhood, but the aesthetic of this hotel tends more toward the contemporary, even though it is housed within one of the city's typical...
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Reforma 402, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Light and color are two words that best describe Casa de Las Bugambilias, or House of the Bougainvillea, a bed-and-breakfast inn in Oaxaca's Centro neighborhood. Every bit of the house, inside and out, is vibrant, thanks to vividly-hued textiles,...
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Democracia 18, PRIMERA ETAPA, Ricardo Flores Magon, 68058 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Breakfasts in Mexico are a lot more interesting than eggs and toast. Start with a cafe de olla (coffee made in a clay pot with brown sugar and cinnamon) or hot chocolate with bread to dunk in it, then move on to the main course. A lot of the...
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Calle de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
These large, thick tortillas are called "tlayudas" and they're a Oaxaca specialty that you're unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They're prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called...
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20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
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71510, Calle Pueblos Unidos 104, Centro, 71510 Ocotlán de Morelos, Oax., Mexico
Inside the main market in Ocotlan de Morelos there is a food stall called La Cocina de Frida ("Frida's Kitchen"), and standing behind the counter is none other than Frida Kahlo herself, or at least a reasonable facsimile. Owner Beatriz Vázquez...
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20 de Noviembre Loc. 39, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you'll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full...
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Juárez Maza s/n, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca, AGS, Mexico
Oaxaca is a world culinary capital for good reason and there is no better place to indulge in all the recipes, ingredients, and traditions of the region than at Central de Abastos, Oaxaca City's main market. It's easy to accidentally spend an...
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I recently visited Oaxaca, Mexico with the chef Alex Stupak and his wife Lauren Resler, co-owners of the Empellon restaurants in New York City. Markets are a passion for Oaxacans and Alex and Lauren would happily spend every waking minute of their...
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Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
On a walk through Oaxaca's Centro Historico any evening, you'll come across carts selling steaming corn. Order an elote and you'll get the corn on the cob on a wooden stick. If you request it "con todo," the vendor will squeeze some lime juice on...
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Xolotl, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This market is small enough to try every food stall, but with enough diversity to make you feel like you’re at an organic food festival. Italian pastries and Korean noodle bowls sit side by side. Tortillas are filled with squash blossoms and bean...
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Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Housed in the former Dominican convent of Santo Domingo, the museum of Oaxacan cultures offers a glimpse at the state's history from ancient times through the colonial period, and into the modern day. The building was beautifully restored and...
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Mariano Matamoros 105, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This shop offers a wide variety of high-quality handicrafts from all over Oaxaca. You'll find a room devoted to woolen rugs, one to woodcarvings, and several to ceramics. On my most recent visit, I couldn't resist picking up a "Catrina," one of...
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OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
Walking through Oaxaca's markets, it's hard not to be a little overwhelmed by the abundance and diversity of items on display. Piles of fresh produce, quantities of beautiful handcrafted objects, baskets of spicy chapulines (grasshoppers), stacks...
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As you approach Mina street, just south of the 20 de Noviembre market in Oaxaca, the smell of chocolate fills the air. There are several chocolate grinding shops along this street. One of the most popular is Chocolate Mayordomo, where you can...
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Plaza de la Constitución, S/N, Col. Centro Histórico, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The building in which the Museo del Palacio is housed was the main building of the Oaxaca state government until it was converted into a museum in 2008. Located on the south side of Oaxaca's Zocalo, the green quarry stone building itself is quite...
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Portal Las Flores 10, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
No trip to Oaxaca is complete without spending at least a few hours sitting in one of the outdoor cafes around the Oaxaca city main square (the "Zocalo"). It's the perfect spot to watch the street scene: couples and families walking by, vendors...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 202, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, OAX, Mexico
The 17th century mansion that houses Oaxaca's contemporary art museum is commonly referred to as "La Casa de Cortes," although it was in fact built over a century after the death of Hernan Cortes, it is certainly lavish enough to have been worthy...
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Miguel Hidalgo 917, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's textile museum opened its doors in 2008. The museum is set in a lovely restored colonial mansion in Oaxaca city's historical center on the same grounds as the San Pablo cultural center. The museum celebrates Oaxaca's rich and varied...
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Flores Magón s/n, Local 30-31, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
While wandering through Oaxaca's markets, you'll probably spot large clay basins filled with a liquid that's topped with a beige foam. This is tejate, a drink that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. It's made with cocoa beans, maize, the seed of...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Los Danzantes is a hip restaurant offering contemporary Mexican cuisine. It’s located on Alcalá street, in the same building that houses the Oro de Monte Alban jewelry store. It’s in a large partially covered patio space, with...
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Calle de La Constitución 108, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
In response to the popularity of a large chain of coffee shops in Mexico selling "Italian" coffee, this family of coffee producers set up a little shop near Santo Domingo church and called it The Oaxacan Coffee Company. Here they proudly serve...
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RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
This handicraft shop in the center of Oaxaca is run by a group of women artisans. It's one of the best places in town to purchase well-priced handicrafts, and it's satisfying to know that the profits go to the women who produce the pieces. Walk...
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Reforma 402, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Run by the talented Chef Pilar Cabrera, who also offers cooking classes through Casa de los Sabores, La Olla is an unpretentious restaurant offering Oaxacan specialties. Head to the upper-level dining room, which is more spacious than the ground...
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Av Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, 68050 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Its name means "flower of the corn" and this little eatery in Oaxaca's Colonia Reforma offers local snacks and dishes prepared with a few different varieties of organic heirloom corn. Besides the ubiquitous quesadillas, tacos and memelas, Itanoni...
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Calle de Mariano Abasolo 121, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that's not the only type of mole you'll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich...
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Barrio de Jalatlaco, Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Throughout Mexico in the many colorful markets there are lots of interesting items for sale, from live animals and produce to clothing and all sorts of knickknacks. Food is also plentiful and varied. But nothing seems to have registered more with...
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De la Danza SN, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
In Oaxaca, shaved ice is fittingly referred to as nieve which means snow in Mexican. Large tin buckets filled with water and flavoring are typically spun by hand in a bed of ice resulting in a dizzying variety of nieve. One of the best places to...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 104, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
You might detect the aroma of fresh coffee on your stroll along the Macedonio Alcalá tourist corridor, and if you're hankering for a caffeine hit, just follow your nose. Cafe Brújula has three locations, but the more central of the three is on ...
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Calle de Manuel Bravo 206, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This small, independent coffee shop offers excellent coffee (many say the best in the city), and also has an extensive food menu, including a set meal which changes daily. They roast their own coffee and make pastries on site too. There's free...
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Labastida 115, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Cafe Los Cuiles is a casual coffeehouse located in Plaza los Virgenes right in the center of Oaxaca. It's a great spot for a coffee and breakfast, to take a break from sightseeing or to catch up on your email. Have some "enfrijoladas" or a waffle...
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Reforma 401, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Cafe La Antigua has a pleasant courtyard and a choice of two indoor sitting areas. They serve organic coffee that is grown in the shade in the Pluma Hidalgo region of Oaxaca, and they roast and grind the coffee on the premises using solar energy....
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Calle de Armenta y López 120, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The coffee in Oaxaca is better than it is in Mexico City but still not Blue Bottle standard. We found this relatively new place near the 20 November market. The espresso is great. They roast their own beans and also serve food. Plus free Wi-Fi—...
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Juárez, 71980 Puerto Escondido, Oax., Mexico
Puerto Escodido, Oaxaca is primarily known for its double overhead barrels and surf scene. However there are some nice secluded coves protected from the massive surf, where one can enjoy calm, warm Pacific waters and eat fresh mariscos on the...
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Gral. Manuel García Vigil 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
We hung out at La Biznaga Restaurant a few times while in Oaxaca. We ate dinner there twice—the main courses were a bit too big, so I'd steer anyone who's asking toward the delicious appetizers. They're also open all afternoon and they have...
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Reforma No. 506, Col. Centro, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Just down the street from where we stayed in Oaxaca there was a mezcal bar called Mezcaloteca. It was staffed by one woman, very studiously sharing her love of mezcal. She poured us a tasting of three different mezcals into the little gourd cups:...
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Miguel Hidalgo 1002, Zona Feb 10 2015, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The artisans in this region still use the traditional form of black clay pottery of their ancestors. I met artisan Ermundo de Coyotepec while traveling in this area.