Collected by Henri Louvat
Tepic 5, Roma Sur, 06760 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
After a morning of urban cycling, we choose a shaded, open-air balcony table at Romita Comedor and each order a beer, tequila, and sangrita, then discuss Mexico City's prospects with Michael Parker-Stainback, a U.S.–born journalist, translator,...
Calle del Mercado 133, San Jerónimo, 16420 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The system of canals and chinampas (cultivated artificial islands fashioned from the area’s swampy soils) that has survived in the far-south neighborhood known as Xochilmilco once stretched all the way to the Centro. To this day, the...
Mexico City, CDMX, Mexico
My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening,...
Madero 3, San Ángel TNT, San Ángel, 01000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
A traditional Mexican cantina. When I was in college, I played dominoes there every Thursday with some good girlfriends. 3 Francisco I. Madero 52/55-5616-4668 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. See all of...
San Ángel Inn, Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
This used to be a hacienda, but it was turned into a restaurant almost 50 years ago. The food is phenomenal and the margaritas are famous—in fact, they’re my favorite thing on the menu. There is always a band or a pianist playing. 50 Diego Rivera...
2a Frontera 37, San Ángel, 01000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Right off the market hubbub is this colonial square flush with bougainvillea. You go through a narrow alleyway, and all of a sudden you’re in the most tranquil placein Mexico City. Near Calle del Arbol and 2a Cerrada de Frontera. As told to...
Insurgentes Sur 2113, San Ángel, 01000 Alvaro Obregon, CDMX, Mexico
This place, near the 16th-century Convento del Carmen, is famous for its churros, fried dough rolled in cinnamon sugar. A mandatory stop. 4 Plaza del Carmen 52/55-5616-0978 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010...
Plaza San Jacinto 11, San Ángel TNT, San Ángel, 01000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Once a separate municipality, San Ángel—in the city’s south, nestled into its western foothills—is a leafy, genteel enclave whose relative isolation adds a soigné feel (for better or worse) you won’t find in...
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