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Democracia 18, PRIMERA ETAPA, Ricardo Flores Magon, 68058 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Breakfasts in Mexico are a lot more interesting than eggs and toast. Start with a cafe de olla (coffee made in a clay pot with brown sugar and cinnamon) or hot chocolate with bread to dunk in it, then move on to the main course. A lot of the...
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Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Housed in the former Dominican convent of Santo Domingo, the museum of Oaxacan cultures offers a glimpse at the state's history from ancient times through the colonial period, and into the modern day. The building was beautifully restored and...
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Mariano Matamoros 105, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This shop offers a wide variety of high-quality handicrafts from all over Oaxaca. You'll find a room devoted to woolen rugs, one to woodcarvings, and several to ceramics. On my most recent visit, I couldn't resist picking up a "Catrina," one of...
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Reforma No. 506, Col. Centro, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Just down the street from where we stayed in Oaxaca there was a mezcal bar called Mezcaloteca. It was staffed by one woman, very studiously sharing her love of mezcal. She poured us a tasting of three different mezcals into the little gourd cups:...
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OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Walking through Oaxaca's markets, it's hard not to be a little overwhelmed by the abundance and diversity of items on display. Piles of fresh produce, quantities of beautiful handcrafted objects, baskets of spicy chapulines (grasshoppers), stacks...
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As you approach Mina street, just south of the 20 de Noviembre market in Oaxaca, the smell of chocolate fills the air. There are several chocolate grinding shops along this street. One of the most popular is Chocolate Mayordomo, where you can...
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Plaza de la Constitución, S/N, Col. Centro Histórico, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The building in which the Museo del Palacio is housed was the main building of the Oaxaca state government until it was converted into a museum in 2008. Located on the south side of Oaxaca's Zocalo, the green quarry stone building itself is quite...
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Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
On a walk through Oaxaca's Centro Historico any evening, you'll come across carts selling steaming corn. Order an elote and you'll get the corn on the cob on a wooden stick. If you request it "con todo," the vendor will squeeze some lime juice on...
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Portal Las Flores 10, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
No trip to Oaxaca is complete without spending at least a few hours sitting in one of the outdoor cafes around the Oaxaca city main square (the "Zocalo"). It's the perfect spot to watch the street scene: couples and families walking by, vendors...
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Calle de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
These large, thick tortillas are called "tlayudas" and they're a Oaxaca specialty that you're unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They're prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called...
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20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
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71510, Calle Pueblos Unidos 104, Centro, 71510 Ocotlán de Morelos, Oax., Mexico
Inside the main market in Ocotlan de Morelos there is a food stall called La Cocina de Frida ("Frida's Kitchen"), and standing behind the counter is none other than Frida Kahlo herself, or at least a reasonable facsimile. Owner Beatriz Vázquez...
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20 de Noviembre Loc. 39, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you'll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full...
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Juárez Maza s/n, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca, AGS, Mexico
Oaxaca is a world culinary capital for good reason and there is no better place to indulge in all the recipes, ingredients, and traditions of the region than at Central de Abastos, Oaxaca City's main market. It's easy to accidentally spend an...
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I recently visited Oaxaca, Mexico with the chef Alex Stupak and his wife Lauren Resler, co-owners of the Empellon restaurants in New York City. Markets are a passion for Oaxacans and Alex and Lauren would happily spend every waking minute of their...
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Xolotl, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This market is small enough to try every food stall, but with enough diversity to make you feel like you’re at an organic food festival. Italian pastries and Korean noodle bowls sit side by side. Tortillas are filled with squash blossoms and bean...
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Km. 3, Carr. Internacional, Cerro del Fortín, Faldas del Fortin, 68030 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Enjoy some of the best views of Oaxaca city while you dine on local specialties such as tlayudas and parrilladas. Come for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just for drinks. It’s open from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., and the view is great any time of day. El...
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Calle Porfirio Díaz 115, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Oaxaca's Casa de la Ciudad is housed in a big yellow building just a couple of blocks from the Zocalo. On the ground level you'll find the Andres Henestrosa memorial library which contains over 50,000 volumes, and some rooms that are used for...
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Diaz Ordaz 712, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
You can find Cuish brand mezcal in a few establishments in Oaxaca city, but head to their own tasting bar located on the outskirts of the city center to learn what this brand stands for. They offer mezcal that is artisanally produced from several...
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Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Lambityeco rose to prominence around the time of the decline the great Zapotec capital Monte Alban, roughly 700 A.D. The site was originally excavated in the 1960s, although some restoration work has been done since that time. Among the buildings...
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Carretera a Tlacolula 190 Km 17, San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, Oax., Mexico
This small archaeological site is situated on a hillside about 12 miles east of Oaxaca city. The name "Dainzú" means "hill of the organ cactus" in Zapotec, although that most certainly was not the original name. The site was occupied in very early...
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Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Tlacolula is the largest town in the Eastern arm of the Oaxaca valley. Market day in this town is on Sundays and on this one day of the week hordes of people come to town from nearby villages to buy, sell, and socialize. You'll find all kinds of...
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Portal Las Flores 3, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
This white tablecloth restaurant on the second floor above the Zocalo is more upscale than other options around the plaza. It opened in 2013, and the floor to ceiling open windows allow all diners to enjoy the views; though from farther back you...
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Av Independencia s/n, Vista Hermosa, 68247 San Agustín Etla, Oax., Mexico
Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded the project of converting an abandoned textile mill into an arts center, which was inaugurated in 2006. The Centro de las Artes San Agustin (CASA) hosts exhibits of a variety of media, as well as courses...
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Oaxaca, Mexico
The natural fresh-water springs at Hierve el Agua were incredible (and cold!). The water is very high in calcium carbonate, and the minerals have formed these natural pools and crazy waterfall-like rock formations. The dusty road was somewhat...