Collected by Bertie Downs
Seminario 8, Centro Histórico, Cuauhtémoc, 06060 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
With the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire, Iberian overlords set about imposing their customs on the subdued populace, eliminating traces of pre-Hispanic religions they deemed heretical by demolishing major temples and building churches and...
Calle Isabel la Catolica 26, Centro, 06000 Cuauhtemoc, CDMX, Mexico
The 2010 death of the great Mexican journalist Carlos Monsiváis was a profound loss. Perhaps the best-known chronicler and editorialist among many excellent journalists, Monsiváis was especially well-known for his commentary about social problems...
Rosario 156, Centro, Merced Balbuena, 15100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Mercado de la Merced, Mexico City’s largest traditional food market, is full of little neighborhoods. Wander the districts devoted to everything from nopales—sometimes stacked five feet high—to pyramids of limes and columns of banana leaves. For a...
Ignacio Allende, s/n, Coyoácan, Del Carmen, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Mercado de Coyoacán, located in southwest Mexico City, has an orderly beauty and a sleepy country market vibe. The produce vendors exhibit ingredients that you won't see at most restaurants: piles of mamey—which resemble oblong cantaloupes and...
Tepic 5, Roma Sur, 06760 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
After a morning of urban cycling, we choose a shaded, open-air balcony table at Romita Comedor and each order a beer, tequila, and sangrita, then discuss Mexico City's prospects with Michael Parker-Stainback, a U.S.–born journalist, translator,...
Calle del Mercado 133, San Jerónimo, 16420 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The system of canals and chinampas (cultivated artificial islands fashioned from the area’s swampy soils) that has survived in the far-south neighborhood known as Xochilmilco once stretched all the way to the Centro. To this day, the...
Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 42, Centro Histórico, Centro, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
El Moro has been turning out churros and creamy hot chocolate 24 hours a day since 1935. You can have your churros three ways—with sugar, with sugar and cinnamon, or with cajeta, a creamy caramel—and your hot chocolate one of four ways—Mexican,...
Local 2, Bahia del Espiritu santo 21, Anáhuac I Secc, 11320 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
There are multiple outposts of the popular pozoleria La Casa de Toño all over Mexico City, but only a few of them are open 24 hours, including this one in the Zona Rosa neighborhood. Whether you've worked up an appetite dancing or need to soak up...
Av. Pdte. Masaryk 407, Polanco, Polanco III Secc, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
A nondescript shopping arcade in a tony neighborhood might not be the place you'd expect to find one of the world's top restaurants—but if there's any place that reinforces the adage about not judging a book by its cover, it's Mexico City....
Dr. Olvera 15, Doctores, 06720 Cuauhtemoc, CDMX, Mexico
The story behind the founding of the Museo del Juguete Antiguo México (Museum of the Antique Mexican Toy) is almost as charming and intriguing as the collection of toys itself. Roberto Shimizu, Sr., who founded the museum with his son, Roberto...
Anatole France 100, Polanco, Polanco III Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Never underestimate the power of shocking pink. The intimate but lively dining room at Dulce Patria—the smash hit by celebrity chef Martha Ortiz—feels not unlike a stage set. Soon after 2 p.m., it starts to fill with high-powered...
Colima 145, Roma Nte., 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
It's a somewhat awkwardly named museum, but Museo del Objeto del Objeto, has a charming, fascinating collection that tells the history of modern Mexico through both extraordinary and everyday objects it has made and used. Though it has a solid...
Av. Veracruz 15, Condesa, 06140 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Mezcal has almost substituted tequila as the spirit of choice in high-end restaurants and simple bars alike. Recently a couple of mezcal specialized boutiques opened across the city. One of them is Sabrá Dios Mezcalería, where you can buy bottles...
Av. 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Histórico, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
An art nouveau stained-glass sign welcomes you into the 140-year-old Dulcería de Celaya, a family-owned sweets shop near the Zócalo. Mexican treats such as aleluyas de pistache (dulce de leche sweets studded with pistachios) and buñuelos...
Parque Centenario 9A, Coyoacán, 04000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Once considered a poor man’s liquor, mezcal now stocks the top shelves of high-end restaurants and bars around the world. Sample the spirit, made from the maguey plant, on the open-air terrace at Corazon de Maguey. The mezcaleria serves golden...
Blvd. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Granada, 11529 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The Museo Soumaya, financed by Carlos Slim, the richest man in Mexico, has the ambitions of the Guggenheim Bilbao from the outside. It's a stunning building whose sweeping, soaring curves couldn't help but make it an instant landmark near Polanco,...
Avenida Arcos de Belén s/n, Centro, 06720 Cuahutémoc, CDMX, Mexico
Mercado San Juan is a market where you go to discuss the best salsas made with the ant hormiga chicatana, the best way to make soup with dried shrimp, and the merits of coffee grown in Veracruz. It’s Mexico City’s gourmet market, where chefs...
Calz. Gral. Mariano Escobedo No. 700, Anzures, 11590 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The creative team behind the edgy cultural magazine Celeste sells clothes and accessories by up-and-coming designers, as well as hats, lingerie, orchids, cigars, antique furniture, and, as one might expect, solid silver lizards and taxidermied...
Londres 247, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The cobalt-blue-and-brick-red residence where now-legendary Mexican visual artist Frida Kahlo grew up—and at times lived with husband Diego Rivera—is one of the city’s most consistently packed attractions; buying tickets in...
Dakota 95, Nápoles, 03810 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
What a great experience. Full to capacity, watching the best bullfighter in the world, Jose Tomas, priceless! Also very emotional to be with my grandfather during his last live bullfight. If you ever visit the stadium in Mexico City you have to...
Dr. Lavista 189, Doctores, 06720 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
The concierge at the hotel was skeptical. The cab driver was amused and skeptical. Lucha libre, or Mexican wrestling, is clearly an unsophisticated embarrassment, tantamount to telling a visitor to the U.S. to...
Historic center of Mexico City, Centro, Mexico City, CDMX, Mexico
We stopped at this stall near the Zócalo because there were tons of people buzzing around it so we knew it must be something good. My non-Spanish speaking friend ran across the street and pantomimed to the vendor that he wanted one of whatever he...
Paseo de la Reforma & Calzada Gandhi S/N, Chapultepec Polanco, Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Learn more about the history of Mexico and its fight to freedom at this lovely museum located in the city's largest park. Have your camera ready, for once you reach the top you will finally understand just how big the city truly is.
Plaza Tres Estrellas 50, 37286 Trancas, Gto., Mexico
Think Mexico is all about tacos and burritos? You haven't been to Hacienda las Trancas, a sprawling estate in colonial Mexico's fertile Bajío. Once a fort on the original Camino Real, it's been lovingly restored by a North Carolina couple who gave...
Puebla 121, Roma Nte., 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
For libations in Colonia Roma, visit the cantina Salón Covadonga, where waiters in white shirts and bow ties serve up palomas, tequila drinks made with grapefruit soda. At this sprawling local institution, you’re just as likely to find old-timers...
55800 San Juan Teotihuacán, State of Mexico, Mexico
While it's not in Mexico City proper, the sacred pre-Hispanic city of Teotihuacan is close enough–about 30 miles– for an easy day trip if you're interested in architecture, archaeology, and indigenous history. The site's primary...
Calle de Durango 200, Roma Nte., 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
With almost 20 years at the helm of a dining room that’s jammed every afternoon, Gabriela Cámara at Contramar must be doing something right. For one, the seafood on offer—traditional, even homey recipes, impeccably...
Zona Sin Asignación de Nombre de Col 35, Insurgentes Centro, Puebla, Pue., Mexico
If you're in Puebla, make sure you get to taste some real Pueblan food. Near downtown you'll find "Gorditas de La 21", a traditional, tasty and cheap place where you'll taste gorditas and molotes.
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