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Lima Dreaming

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When I decided to go to Peru, I knew there would be plenty of handicrafts to capture my attention. I even packed a collapsible tote bag to lug my purchases back home. In Lima, I stayed at a hotel in Miraflores. On my first venture out into the...
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Jr, Jirón Carabaya 100, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
In a rush to make it to the Monastery of San Francisco in historic downtown Lima, I almost missed this place. The bar is located on a corner, behind wood and glass doors. "Hemingway" was my first thought as I passed in a rush—I knew I had to come...
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Calle Las Begonias 450. San Isidro, Lima 15001, Peru
The Westin brand’s first foray into South America was, at least when it opened in 2011, the tallest building in all of Peru. That distinction has since been taken over by the Edificio Banco Continental (BBVA) nearby, but the glass-and-steel...
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Miraflores, Peru
Many visitors to Peru stay in Miraflores, and for good reason: The neighborhood is where you’ll find most of the better hotels, as well as the top restaurants. Get off main streets to stroll the pretty side streets. Down by the...
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Malecón Cisneros, Miraflores 15074, Peru
This statue can be found at Lovers' park, which is right along the boardwalk of Lima Beach. It is aptly called The Kiss and the park was packed with lovers when I was there on Valentine's Day, which is a national holiday in Peru. Every year on...
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Avenida Miguel Grau 369, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Everyone in Lima knows Canta Rana—some consider it the best cevicheria in the city. The owners’ son has a spot in the main market called Canta Ranita where the ceviche is just as good, and even though it’s a stall, the place has...

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Calle 2 de Mayo, Villa María del Triunfo, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Casa Tupac is a center for artists. It offers residencies and provides studio space to people working in all different media. Every few weeks they host a screening or a party that’s open to the public. Two Peruvian visual artists...

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Cajamarca 212, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Mari Solari is one of the foremost authorities on native folk art. She has the most amazing showroom. It’s part shop, part museum. If you’re lucky, she will show you some of her private collection. Jr. Cajamarca 212, 51/(0)...

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García y García 175, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

AmorAmar is by far the chicest spot in the neighborhood. Part of the dining room is open-air, and an art gallery and a florist shop are on-site. The menu is half Peruvian classics and half fusion-y dishes. Their pisco sours with...

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Sanchez Carrion 199, Barranco 15063, Peru

By Mariana Tschudi

Some of the best bands in Peru play at this dive bar. It also holds an annual film festival. This year, I’m applying to screen my short film about the Peruvian sea, Madre Mar [Mother Sea]. Avenida Bolognesi 307, 51/(0) 1247-1012,...

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Lima District 15001, Peru
Every day at noon at the Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza Mayor), trumpets blare, drums pound, and cymbals crash as the guard changes outside the presidential palace. Enjoy the Spanish fanfare like a local: from a plaza bench with an ice cream...
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Av San Martin 1090, Pueblo Libre 15084, Peru
All of my memories of Antiqua Taberna Queirolo are fuzzy at this point--not because of time, but because, well, when I was there, I usually got really drunk. This, of course, was precisely the point; the place is one of Lima's oldest pisco bars....
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Centro Empresarial Real, Av. Sto. Toribio 173, San Isidro 15073, Peru
La Locanda restaurant does refined Mediterranean-Peruvian cuisine. Starting with a beautifully plated amuse-bouche of foie gras and pressed pineapple gel on a solid stone plate, I was wowed by the meal's creative fusion. The tiradito of lime and...
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Ovalo Gutiérrez-Primer Nivel Sótano, Miraflores 15073, Peru
To Limeños, nothing goes with fresh fruit juice better than sandwiches, at dinner, or after dinner, or in the afternoon, or even in the morning. In fact, sandwiches don’t have to count as a meal in Peru, while it’s perfectly acceptable to call a...
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Neighboring parks, Pera del Amor, Gandhi, and Grecia in San Isidro, are three green stops along the scenic Costa Verde. Walk to the middle of the roundabout at the end of Avenida Salaverry and then follow the coastal path with its spectacular view...
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Centro Empresarial Real, Av. Sto. Toribio 173, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Pisco Chilcano cocktails, salty snacks, juicy Peruvian olives, and live music from the grand piano—what more could you want? Every bar in Lima makes a Pisco sour, but Chilcanos (Pisco, lemon, bitters, and ginger ale or soda) are the new cocktail...
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esquina con avenida El Rosario y, Av. Nicolas de Rivera 201, Distrito de San Isidro Lima 27, Peru
Explore the burial temple of the Hualla tribe, a pre-Incan group that inhabited Lima from the sixth to the 15th century. The name of the temple comes from the Quechua dialect and means “home of the Hualla tribe.” Though theoretically open 9 a.m....
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Av. Los Conquistadores, San Isidro 15073, Peru
The main commercial drag of San Isidro is full of luxury stores with an emphasis on South American and Spanish brands. From Andean-inspired wool and felt purses at Meche Correa to high-end women’s clothing and leather accessories at Boutique...
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Av. Los Conquistadores 1214, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Thanks to the large Italian community in Lima (and an Italian owner), La Bottega del Vino does good business in Italian wine made by small producers. When Plaza Vea’s and Wong Supermarkets’ selections of Amarone, Valpolicella, and Nebbiolo leave...
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Calle Ernesto Plascencia 255, Ernesto Plascencia, Distrito de San Isidro 15073, Peru
For the exquisite gold-wrapped truffles, nougats, toffees, cookies, and candies at this chocolate boutique, it’s worth stepping off Avenida Conquistadores. Bestselling truffle flavors include sweet cream manjar blanco, Porto, and Peruvian dark...
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Leder, San Juan de Miraflores 15801, Peru
Leder’s leather-bound notebooks and laurel root photo albums are unique in a city full of gifts and souvenirs. The handmade items are available in dark earth tones, in homage to the Peruvian ground from which their materials came. The company is...
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Felipe Pardo y Aliaga 498, Trujillo 13006, Peru
Cuerpo y Alma is a soap and body products boutique with all handmade products. From lotions, shampoos, and scrubs to incense, pot pourri, and cologne, the two shop owners know how to make life smell good. Their Cuerpo y Alma (body and soul) line...
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Av. Victor Andrés Belaúnde 198, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Easily within walking distance from the rambling seaside cliffs of scenic Miraflores sits a tiny, yet significant contribution to Lima's modern food movement. Rafael Osterling is no newcomer to the local culinary scene, and his restaurant is like...
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Enrique León García 114, Cercado de Lima 15034, Peru
Peru has no shortage of stellar cevicherias, so how does a little hole-in-the-wall joint that's open only for lunch develop a cult following? I'm sure Anthony Bourdain deserves a fair bit of credit there, but Chef Javier Wong definitely deserves...
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Av. Primavera 1494, Lima 15023, Peru
In 2013 I made a brief 5 day trip to Lima, this was my third visit to that city. One of those nights when I was willing to trying something new in terms of food a local friend of mine recommended Hanzo. This is a food chain restaurant specialized...
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Calle Ramón Ribeyro 490, Miraflores Lima 18, Peru
Every Saturday there is an organic Farmer’s Market called Bioferia, near Parque del Reducto in Miraflores. There are dozens of stands selling seasonings and specialty jams, toys and clothes made of pure cotton and artisan cosmetics, among other...
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Jirón Ucayali, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Lima’s Balcones are one of the main reasons why the Historic downtown was granted a Unesco Heritage Site status. Balcones are a typical Peruvian porches, the architecture dates from the Spanish Viceroyalty times. They are made of wood and...
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Melate is a gourmet chocolate maker using 100% Peruvian ingredients of the highest quality, created by the most important lady in the Peruvian gastronomic scene: Astrid Gutsche. From chocolate bars to truffles and pralines, everything is made with...
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Surquillo 15047, Peru
Just a few blocks from the hotel, the Surquillo Market bustles with daily life, as locals shop the stands for their fresh groceries. You’ll find stalls selling a bounty of seafood, vegetables, fruits, meat, herbs, and many surprising and...
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cuadra S/n, Calle General Borgoño 8, Miraflores 15074, Peru
The old civilizations believed the huacas (adobe pyramids) had their own personalities. Even if you don’t quite believe it, the huacas were built by the incas and their ancestors and are at the center of Peruvian history. They were temples,...
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Av Mariscal La Mar 1337, Miraflores 15074, Peru
This is one of the most famous cevicherias in Lima. The name is a joke with Pecados Capitales (the Seven Capital Sins) since it sounds like Pescados (fish) Capitales, and the entire menu is named according to the seven sins. Just reading the menu...