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Korea

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Squeezed between China and Japan, this spunky country is uniquely neither...Smartphones and its North-South divide are perhaps its most well-known features to the rest of the world...but come for spicy food, omnipresent mountains, one of the world's largest cities, and optimism in the shadow of one of the Cold War's last remaining borders.
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78 Seongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo, Jeju-do, South Korea
Slightly sweet, with pleasantly salty mineral umami--that's what the yellow-orange goo from sea-urchins tastes like. The fresher the better for this roe--and if you visit the coast of Jeju island, the legendary "haenyo" women divers will have just...
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18 Insadong 4-gil, Nakwon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
"Yeot...what?" The closest approximation in English for one of Korea's favorite street-sweets might be "taffy." It ranges from sticky-soft all the way to jaw-breaker-hard. Traditional vendors announce their confectionery presence by loudly and...
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88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno 1(il).2(i).3(sam).4(sa), Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
For over a century, Seoul's Gwangjang Market has been a destination for snack-seekers. The labyrinthine passageways are covered, and you can find anything from knock-off shoes ("fira" instead of "Fila," for example) to chili powder and embroidered...
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Samseong 2(i)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Admit it--you've learned the dance and watched the clip; "Gangnam-style" is inescapable. (I even read that the Secretary General of the UN has called it 'a force for world peace.' Huh?) But what is "Gangnam" really like? This district, south of...
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Seosulla-gil, Jongno 1(il).2(i).3(sam).4(sa), Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
For slice-of-life Seoul, take a walk from Jongno 3-ga Subway station up to the main gate of Changdeok-gung Palace. Re-built in 1607, (and somehow surviving the Korean War of the 1950's), Donhwa-mun gate is one of the oldest wooden structures left...
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Earlier in the evening, this spot in Gwanghwamun Plaza was full of families, children playing in the fountains beneath the statue of 16th-c. Admiral Yi Sun-shin. After dinner, with the kids gone, I got a moment of calm. For decades, this statue...
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135-1 Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
A flagstone courtyard under a persimmon tree, lattice-doors under an upswept tile roof...on my last night in Seoul, I stayed in these traditional surroundings in the city's Bukchon neighborhood. Twenty million people live in the South Korean...
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119 Sogong-ro, Taepyeongno 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
From your bedside touch-screen phone in The Plaza Hotel in central Seoul, you can control almost everything--the lights, the drapes and curtains, the air conditioning, whether you want the 'do not disturb' sign to appear on the door...and you can...
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Jibong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
"Dongdaemun" is the old east gate of Seoul. The word is also synonymous with the massive market area that surrounds the gate, both above and below ground. Several of the nearby subway stations connect with underground shopping arcades. You can...
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Chungmuro 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Seoul is full of street food, and open-air markets and sidewalk stalls abound. But wander the avenues at night, and warm light from under tarps beckons; it's the poh-jahng-mah-chah. Literally meaning "covered/tented wagon," these are an...
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Hwachaebong-gil, Ganghyeon-myeon, Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
After an afternoon of driving through the countryside, I went for a hike near Jin-jeon-sa temple in the mountains along the east coast of South Korea. Coming up the stone steps, I was greeted by this dog. He seemed so serene, surveying 'his'...
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531 Bongeunsa-ro, Samseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Modernization. Westernization. Globalization. These words are sometimes used synonymously, but while all three certainly might be used to describe East Asia, distinctions should be made. South of the Han River in Seoul is the Gangnam district; the...
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When Seoul's Gyeongbok-gung Palace was built in the 1390s, it was the centerpiece of the newly established Joseon dynasty, which had just named the city as its capital. Six centuries later, after invasions, fires, colonization, and wars, its...
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Seoraksan-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
When hiking in parts of South Korea's Seoraksan National Park, you won't go thirsty. Spectacular crags all around, rustic restaurants dot some of the trails. Mountain spring water combined with rice from nearby paddies leads to fermentation...and...
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272 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon, South Korea
Postcards from abroad just aren't as evocative if they don't have the foreign stamp and postmark...So, before our departure from Korea, my wife wanted to make sure to send a few from the airport post office. We went up to the fourth floor in the...
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Cheoksanyangjimal-gil, Nohak-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
"Mak-guk-su' are hearty Korean buckwheat noodles--the rustic cousins of Japanese 'soba' across the sea...The port city of Sokcho is famous for its seafood, but just a few miles inland, in the village district of I-mok-ri, cold and spicy...
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Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno 1(il).2(i).3(sam).4(sa), Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
You don't need to go to back alleys or historic markets (although those are great!) to sample traditional snacks in Korea; almost all the major boulevards in the center sprout mini-kitchens, set up on the sidewalk even across from chic...
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513 Yeongdong-daero, Samseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
During my last stay in Seoul, I spent most of my time in the historic heart of the city north of the Han river. I did take a Sunday afternoon, though, to walk around the Gangnam district—the chic high rise–dominated neighborhood south of the...
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Seoul, South Korea
While down in the Seoul subway, this stopped me in my tracks: an advertisement-in-the-form-of-a-pronunciation-lesson. Look carefully in the bottom right of the image--yep, this is for the American car company, Chevrolet. Now look at the phonetic...
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Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
The upswept rooflines of Korean architecture are beguiling: intricate eaves are a symphony of patterned color...and every once in a while, a face pops out, like this scowling end-tile 'guardian'--a face only a roofer could love. I spent a couple...
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Seongsanjungang-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
Where the East China Sea meets the Yellow Sea, a subtropical island holds on to its traditions. Jeju-do, off the southwastern tip of the Korean peninsula, is home to the "haenyo," or 'women-of-the-sea.' These hardy divers continue a centuries-old...
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99 Sejong-daero, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Surrounded by skyscrapers in the center of Seoul, Deoksu-gung Palace ("The Palace of Virtuous Longevity") got its start as a prince's villa in the mid-15th century. In 1907, the compound became the 'retirement home' of the next-to-the-last king of...
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During daylight hours, Gwanghwamun gate's portals are open to visitors entering and leaving the Gyeongbokgung Palace compound. Coming in or going out, make sure to look up as you pass through: the ceilings are vividly painted with mythical...
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Jungmun-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
The Giant's Causeway in Ireland is perhaps the most well-known example of seaside columnar basalt cliffs...and here on this green volcanic island on the other side of the world is a less well-known locale where you can find this geologic...
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Over the last decade or so, these "love padlocks" have been appearing at various sites around the world: Italy, Paris, the Brooklyn Bridge, Tokyo, and in this photo, on a mountaintop in the middle of Seoul (the park around N-Tower on Namsan). With...
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15 Sinhwayeoksa-ro, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo, Jeju-do, South Korea
With volcanic soil and a subtropical climate, the island of Jeju-do has become a center for tea cultivation. On a quick visit to this island off the southwestern tip of Korea, you are practically obligated (by hotel concierges, taxi drivers,...
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Osaek-ri, Seo-myeon, Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Mountains and temples are inextricably linked in Korea--when Buddhism was first introduced to the peninsula in the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BC to AD 668), numerous temples were built among the forested peaks. Even though Buddhism fell out of...
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Euljiro 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Arguably Seoul's most memorable and most exotic street snack, buhn-deh-ghee (silkworm larvae) are pure protein. If you've ever had boiled peanuts, they're quite similar! They're a snacking ritual in the Korean capital, so sooner or later, if you...
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Haeoreum-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Seaweed soup for supper? In Korea, 'mee-yeok'--a kind of edible kelp--is a common base for a delicious, hearty soup. While walking along the seawall on my first evening along the NE coast of Korea, I saw this 'halmoni' (respectful Korean term for...
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Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Amidst the almost hypnotic repetition of pattern and color, I spent an afternoon 'lost' in the colonnades of Changdeok-gung Palace. Focusing my vision on architecture in a historical context far removed from my everyday life--one of my favorite...
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Cheonghodaegyo-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Here in the world's most internet-saturated country, with smartphones, high-speed trains and HDTVs, this streetscape caught my eye--lost in time. I was wandering the side streets near the seawall in Sokcho, South Korea; I didn't yet know that this...
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29-4 Bukchon-ro 6-gil, Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In a metropolitan area of 20 million people, finding an oasis is a must for keeping your sanity. Seoul's Bukchon neighborhood still has a plentiful supply of traditional courtyard gardens—many of the "hanok" (traditional houses) have been opened...
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Deoksugung-gil, Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Bukchon, the historic neighborhood between Gyeongbok-gung and Changdeok-gung palaces in the heart of Seoul, is the home of buk-chon son mandu, which translates as "handmade dumplings." Even though this is a Seoul chain restaurant, the namesake...
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Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
On a jetty jutting out into the Sea of Japan, toward a pine-covered lighthouse isle, this metal tree of hearts is a rendezvous spot on the NE coast of South Korea. Visitors from all over Asia come to Sokcho to eat seafood and to see where scenes...
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Samseong 2(i)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Across the street from Asia's largest underground mall, Bong-eun-sa temple still functions as one of Seoul's largest and oldest Buddhist temples. Under the paper lanterns, ritual continues, a counterpoint to the the wired and wifi frenzy in the...
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Jaemboree-ro, Toseong-myeon, Goseong-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Even when on a quest for contemplative silence, people need to eat...so, on some of the roofs of Hwa-ahm-sa Buddhist temple in the mountains overlooking the Sea of Japan, 'dwen-jahng' (Korean-style 'miso,' or soybean paste) ferments in giant...
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Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno 1(il).2(i).3(sam).4(sa), Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In the Samcheong-dong neighborhood, I saw this whimsical mural on the side of a bakery—perfect for a Francophile Korean sweet tooth. I became a lover of macarons (not to be confused with macaroons) when I lived in Paris. I had no idea that the...
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471-4 Geumho-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Between the mountains and the sea, across the country from Seoul, Sokcho is a seafood-lover's dream. In the city's downtown Jung-ang Market, (one of several markets in town), this husband-and-wife team caught my eye: with a baseball game on in the...
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21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Namchang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Among the biggest and most chaotic markets in Korea, Seoul's Namdaemun Market is the capital's oldest, dating to the 1400s. Today you can find ANYthing here, if you're willing to brave the crowded alleyways tucked in behind skyscrapers:...
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Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Walking in one of Seoul's newer neighborhoods south of the Han River, this unlikely art caught my eye: a sculpture of backpack-toting gorilla climbing up an apartment building. The Gangnam district of Seoul has splashes of whimsy among the new...
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Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Covering 78 acres of hilly forest in the middle of Seoul, the Huweon, or "Rear Garden" of Changdeok-gung Palace is better known by the city's millions as Biweon, or "The Secret Garden." Once exclusively for the royal family, today it's a favorite...
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106 Sogong-ro, Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
The "Altar to Heaven," hidden away in what is now the garden of the Westin Chosun Hotel in central Seoul, was one of the Joseon Dynasty's last architectural expressions of independence. In the tumult of the end of the 19th and beginning of the...
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119 Sogong-ro, Taepyeongno 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
From the upper floors on the north side of The Plaza hotel in central Seoul, this is the view up Sejong-ro, the city's historical main axis. Reopened in 2010 after extensive renovation and redesign by the Italian designer Guido Ciompi, this is...
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161 Sajik-ro, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Walking in Seoul on a rainy day, I looked up from the obstacle course of puddles and saw this parking 'guardian?' 'attendant?' 'demon?' The scowl, the creepily realistic wrinkled fingers of the hands in a prayer (!) pose--I fumbled my iPhone out...
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78 Namdaemun-ro, Myeongdong 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In the Korean capital's Myeongdong district, you're not limited to 'Seoul-food;' you can also taste distinctive dishes from Jeonju city, in the country's fertile Southwest. Go to "Go-gung" (pronounce: goh-goong) restaurant. The restaurant's...
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18 Insadong 4-gil, Nakwon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
On a sidewalk in Seoul's Insa-dong district, a husband-and-wife team demonstrate the traditional way to make "tteok," chewy-sticky rice-cakes. Pounding the sweet rice in the giant stone mortar with a wooden pestle turns it into a flour which is...
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161 Sajik-ro, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
My wife was flying to join me in Korea. Due to weather conditions in San Francisco, she missed her connecting flight. (The airline was less than helpful; when my wife finally got to talk to a ticketing agent after standing in line for an hour, the...
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78 Seongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo, Jeju-do, South Korea
About halfway between China and Japan, just off the SW tip of Korea, is Jeju-do. Dominated by lake-filled Halla-san volcano (extinct, and incidentally, the highest peak in South Korea), this subtropical island has been known for its horses since...
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185 Changgyeonggung-ro, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
The website said that Changgyeong-gung Palace was closed on Tuesdays. So on this particular drizzly Monday, (my last day in Seoul), I trekked over, planning on revisiting this site of a childhood outing...But when I arrived, the 400-year-old gates...
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1137 Seoraksan-ro, Seorak-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Look up when passing through the gate at the entrance of Shin-heung-sa temple; you'll see a dragon in the rafters. Near the entrance of Seoraksan National Park, you'll find this Buddhist temple on the valley floor. (Dating to the 7th century, it's...
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Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
On my first evening in Sokcho, on the east coast of South Korea, just south of the DMZ, I went along with my aunt to the seafood market downtown. For several blocks, the bounty of "The East Sea" (Koreans insist that "The Sea of Japan" is an...
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South Korea, Seoul, Jongno-gu, Gahoe-dong, 계동길 37
On my first evening back in Seoul, on my first visit in almost twenty years, I could hardly believe I was in the middle of a metropolitan area of over twenty million people. I was staying in the Buk-chon neighborhood, in a 'hanok'--one of the...
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Gageum-ri, Haseong-myeon, Gimpo-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea
There are no boats here, where the Han River flows into the Yellow Sea--this is the watery mine-laden western limit of the DMZ. On a trip to Korea in the mid-1990's, one of my uncles took us to visit Aegibong, a 500-ft.-high hill that presides...
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Ganghwa-gun, Incheon, South Korea
Under the eave, a monkey supports the weight of a temple roof on Ganghwa Island, in the Han river estuary, northwest of Seoul, a stone's throw from North Korea... On one of my teen-age visits to Korea, an uncle took us to spend the day here, an...
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161 Sajik-ro, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Originally built in 1395, Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest and greatest of Seoul’s Five Grand Palaces. Burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1592, it was reconstructed in 1867. Today, the palace grounds, filled with lotus ponds,...
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137 Seobinggo-ro, Seobinggo-dong, Yongsan-gu, 서울특별시 South Korea
The National Museum of Korea is the largest museum in Korea and houses a comprehensive collection of Korean cultural artifacts that tell the story of Korea’s fascinating history, from ancient days to the modern era. There’s also the Children’s...
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Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Sokcho, South Korea. At first glance, you might think, "small houses with colorful tile roofs--how quaint. A bit claustrophobic, perhaps, but cozy in an Asian way." Then you remember the history--sixty-one years ago this summer, the Korean War...
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Songcheon-ri, Seo-myeon, Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
Several years from now, spectators and athletes from around the world will be descending on these mountains; the 2018 Winter Olympics have just been awarded to Pyeongchang, in the mountains along the East coast of South Korea. While visiting my...
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Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea
All I had was my iPhone to catch this dad-and-daughter scene. I was going for an early evening walk along the seawall in Sokcho (along the east coast of South Korea) when I noticed a guy, looking like an office worker still in his dress-shirt and...
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Jongno 5(o)-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Anyone who's been to Seoul knows how coffee-crazed South Korea's capital is: There are well over 200 Starbucks locations in Seoul alone! But this independent coffee shop, a few blocks down from the city's medieval East Gate, takes it to a whole...
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161 Sajik-ro, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Late spring and early summer in Seoul: musicians in medieval clothing infuse the grounds of Gyeongbok Palace with a sense of its storied past. Built in the 1390's when a new dynasty established Seoul as its capital, Gyeongbok-gung ("The Palace of...
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Bian-gil, Daegwalnyeong-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
...scenes from a morning in the midst of autumn's palette in Odae-san National Park: steam ascending from temple breakfast fires at sunrise, climbing up through maples and pungent gingkoes, happening upon a folk-painting of a tiger on a trail-side...
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Euljiro 6(yuk)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Dongdaemun, the old East Gate of Seoul, has been the site of a market for generations. Today, the double-roofed stone arch no longer marks entry into the city, but the capital's residents still come here to haggle over everything from shoes to...
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Osaek-ri, Seo-myeon, Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea
About 25 miles north of the site of the 2018 Winter Olympics, and just 25 miles south, as the crow flies, of the heavily fortified DMZ, the Jujeonggol valley in Seoraksan Nat'l Park is an oasis of jade-colored waters beneath pinnacles of...
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Insa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Tucked away in the heart of downtown Seoul is the quaint Insadong district, where a Korea of yore comes to life in the form of traditional artists and musicians, shops selling Korean crafts and souvenirs, and street performers dressed in native...
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524 Bongeunsa-ro, Samseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Bong-eun-sa Temple, in the southern part of Seoul, dates back to the end of the 8th century. The skyscraper-studded Gang-nam district, in which the temple now finds itself, dates back just a couple of decades; as recently as the 1980's, rice...
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South Korea, Gangwon-do, Sokcho-si, Daepo-dong, Seoraksan-ro, 833
About 25 miles north of the site of the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympics is Seoraksan National Park. These mountains along Korea's East Coast are a hiker's paradise in all seasons, studded with architectural and religious highlights. Sitting,...
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Seoul, South Korea
Seoul has to be Asia's most caffeinated mega-city. There is plenty of tea to be had, but coffee rules in Korea's capital. Along with an abundance of multi-storied Starbucks, every street seems to have sprouted a home-grown café: from the...
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Seongsanjungang-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
While visiting the subtropical island of Jeju-do, off the SW coast of Korea, last month, we were able to meet some "haenyo." ("Haenyo" roughly means 'sea maiden.') These women divers regularly descend down to 60 feet under the sea, without any...
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Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
In the middle of a metropolitan area of twenty million, Seoul's historic Bukchon neighborhood has kept a traditional village feel. "Hanok"—traditional courtyard houses, with upswept tile roofs and latticed sliding doors—line the hilly streets....
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1 Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Current tensions require close monitoring, but Cheong Wa Dae is open for visitors. From its mountainside overlooking central Seoul, "The Blue House" is the official residence of the South Korean president, and if you apply weeks in advance with...
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81-3 Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
If you're planning a trip to Korea in the fall, mark your calendar--October 9th is "Hangul Day"--one of the few national holidays in the world to celebrate a writing system. Beneath the 20-ton bronze statue of King Sejong the Great--who...
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219-1 Gyo-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
A proud member of the growing "cittàslow" (slow city) movement, Jeonju's historic "Hanok Maeul" district is a pedestrian, gastronomic, and architectural delight. Korea's southwest is still off the tourist radar for most Western visitors, but this...
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203 Gamnae 2(i)-ro, Gamcheon-dong, Saha-gu, Busan, South Korea
Korea's second city has become known for its dazzling skyscrapers, film festival, and popular beaches, but Busan's hills are not to be missed. To the southwest of the trendy Haeundae district and the sights and smells of the old harbor's Jagalchi...
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182-21 Gwanghuidong 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
As ubiquitous as "mandu" (dumplings) may be in Korea, when in Seoul, seek out their Mongolian lamb-filled 'ancestors.' One theory says that meat-filled dumplings were introduced to the Korean peninsula during the Mongol invasions of the 14th...
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Seoul, South Korea
Spelling Korean food in English is notoriously difficult: gimbab, kimbop, kimbab, kimbap, gimbob--all are different renderings of the seaweed-wrapped rice-veggie-and-meat-rolls that make up Seoul's most convenient quick meal. The streetside stalls...
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South Korea, Seoul, Gwanhun-dong, 48, insadong 14-gil
Near Anguk subway station, "Amandier" is a perfect place for a morning café au lait and a croissant before exploring the Joseon-dynasty royal palaces--it's halfway between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces, and on the edge of the traditional...
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84-13 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
First-time visitors to Korea might get the impression that every meal consists of nothing but spicy red pepper–laced everything. And, while kimchi is practically unavoidable, (and deliciously so!), heat is not the only culinary sensation. In an...
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South Korea, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Ulleung-gun, Ulleung-eup, 도동리 89-1
It's the most beautiful island you've never heard of: Ulleungdo. A three-hour ferry ride from Korea's east coast will drop you off in the tiny, abrupt harbor of Dodong. The pirate's-cove feel of the place is not just a movie-inspired comparison;...
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509-24 Cheonbu-ri, Buk-myeon, Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
If you are adventurous enough to find your way to Korea's offbeat and spectacularly scenic Ulleung-do island, then surely you're adventurous enough to try some "hobak-makkolli." Let's start with an approximate pronunciation lesson: say "Hoh-bahk...
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485-5 Nari, Buk-myeon, Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
A root vegetable that becomes 'meaty' when grilled? And it's also medicinal? Meet "deodeok," sometimes spelled "toduk." It's a variety of bonnet bellflower, (scientific name: codonopsis lanceolata) and in Korea the roots are considered to have...
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485-5 Nari, Buk-myeon, Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
You've made it to the splendid isolation of Ulleung-do island's north shore...Now, where to sleep? "Chusan Ilga Pension" is one of the island's best choices: above the waves, on a clifftop beneath a volcanic peak, with a granite Buddha overlooking...
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Yonghae-dong, Mokpo-si, Jeollanam-do, South Korea
Two legends surround these distinctive 'tafoni'-geological formations on the southwestern coast of Korea. One involves filial piety—see the 'father' and 'son' wearing conical hats? The other says that when the Buddha and a disciple were in the...
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South Korea, Busan, Nampo-dong, 부산광역시 중구 자갈치해안로 52 (남포동4가)
Korea's second city is a seaside study in contrasts, from the glittering skyscrapers along Haeundae Beach to the charmingly gritty harbor-side Jagalchi Market, where every manner of marine life is available for your viewing and eating...
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68-8 Eunhaeng-ro, Pungnam-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
Although the city of Jeonju has been famous throughout Korea for centuries, it's still not a commonly known destination for Western visitors. Recently designated as a UNESCO world "city of gastronomy," Jeonju is definitely worth a several-day...
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56-1 Dodong-ri, Ulleung-eup, Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
Still way off the beaten path for most non-Koreans, volcanic Ulleung-do island rises up in rugged isolation off Korea's east coast, washed by Siberian currents, inhabited by a few thousand hardy souls. Along the waterfront in tiny Dodong harbor,...
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29 Namyang 5(o)-gil, Seo-myeon, Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
You can't really get lost on Ulleung-do island; while the terrain is spectacularly steep and forested, there's only one coastal road, and it doesn't even completely ring the island yet. When you disembark from the ferry at one of the two tiny...
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South Korea, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Ulleung-gun, Seo-myeon, 울릉순환로 2160
High above the north shore of Ulleung-do island, Seongbulsa temple isn't an especially old temple, and it's certainly not a large one--just one building--but oh, the setting... So often throughout Korea, if you want the best view of an area, hike...