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When it comes to ice cream, there is still only one place in Rome. It has been the best since 1900. I love Giolitti not only for the great gelato, but also because it hasn’t changed since I was a little girl. 39/06-699-1243. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Via della Penna, 22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Hotel Locarno occupies two adjacent buildings in the cosmopolitan district between the Tiber River and Piazza del Popolo. The original property, built and inaugurated in the 1920s, houses the majority of the standard and deluxe rooms, while...
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Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Here is one of Rome’s best restaurants: Al Moro is very traditional and is well known for the quality of its seasonal ingredients, including porcini mushrooms, wild strawberries, artichokes, and asparagus. 39/06-678-3495. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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Via Borgognona, 11, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
I often take out-of-town guests here for lunch because it feels—and is—so authentic. Whenever I go in, I have ‘my’ table, as do all the other Roman regulars. One of the restaurant’s specialties is the Francovich soup, which is a delicious Tuscan...
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Vicolo del Bottino, 8, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
I love to go to this restaurant and wine bar for a glass of prosecco and to enjoy the unique view out over the Spanish Steps and the rest of Rome as the sun sets. 39/06-699-341000. By Pepi Marchetti Franchi, as told to Elizabeth Minchilli. This...
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Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 2, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Ciampini has all the required three Ps (that's a thing, right?): People-watching, prime piazza location, and perfect cappuccini to make it the most coveted caffè bar in Rome. From 8 a.m. to after dark, Rome's best-dressed flock to Piazza...
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Via Claudia, 15, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Caffe Propaganda is just a short 3-4 minute walk from the Colosseum; but instead of being another tourist spot, it's a spot for locals and has some of the best hand-crafted cocktails in Rome. In the direction opposite from the hub-bub on the quiet...
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Via Labicana, 95, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
In 1857, the prior of the Basilica di San Clemente thought there might be something underneath his 12th-century church, already renowned for its relics and striking mosaic of the Crucifixion. When he excavated, he found not only the original,...
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Via di S. Teodoro, 74, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Every Saturday and Sunday on Via S. Teodoro, tucked just off Circus Maximus, Rome's best farmer's market takes place. It's run by Campagna Amica, an Italy-wide organization that promotes local, sustainable agriculture—so all of the products sold...
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Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Like all outdoor markets in Rome, Campo de' Fiori is a bustling social center where locals push past throngs of tourists to complete their errands. Every morning you can find nonni shopping for produce with their grandchildren, feisty butchers...
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Via Marmorata, 47, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
We stopped at Volpetti to pick up a few items for a picnic on Aventine Hill in the Garden of Oranges. Problem is, you can't just pick up a few things here. Everything is wonderful. The food combined with the view from the Aventine makes for a...
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Via Giulia, 62, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The St. George, opened in 2007, was recently purchased and renovated by Indigo, an international luxury hotel chain. The new owners have taken care to preserve the unique elements of the original structure, including an exterior of roughly hewn...
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Via degli Ibernesi, 30, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
This lovely boutique hotel might just have the best location in Rome: It's right across from the entrance to the Roman forum, down the street from the Colosseum... and actually *in* the 2nd-century Trajan's Markets. (When you check in, the...
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Via degli Orti di Trastevere, 3, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
When in Rome, they say, do as the Romans do. So that's why I made my priority in Rome to EAT. To eat gourmet cheeses, drink fine wines, plenty of pasta and of course gelato. But Rome is a big city so finding the best places to eat on my short trip...
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Via di Monte Giordano, 60/61, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Coromandel, located just around the corner from Piazza Navona, just might be the prettiest spot to have a meal in town. From the brass door handle to bone-handled cutlery to the delicate Limoges-style plates and cups, it is an elegant design...
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Via della Stazione di S. Pietro, 14, 00165 Roma RM, Italy

A perfect schedule and trip to St. Peter's was thwarted on early Wednesday morning when I learned the Pope was giving mass. Without an invitation, I stood on the outskirts of fences and boundaries watching devotees rush in for the blessing. A kind...

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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
I was obsessed with the book "The Secret Garden" as a child. All of humanity is drawn towards places that are hidden and unknown, and Rome's keyhole to this enchanting garden that overlooks the city and St. Peters Basilica is no exception. Located...
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Piazza dell'Emporio, 28, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Having a famous food writer as a neighbor is a great thing. For example, of one of the great things is phone calls for impromptu lunches in the middle of the week. The next thing you know you are eating fois gras sandwiches and drinking glasses of...
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Located across the Tiber River from the Centro Storico, Trastevere is a kaleidoscope of ivy-covered buildings, complicated Italian history, and bombastic nightlife. The heart of the neighborhood is Piazza Santa Maria, a large square where street...