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How to Do a Pastry Crawl in Seville

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Two towns in Andalucía claim birthplace dibs on the mantecado, but legend tips the scales toward Estepa, a village 90 minutes east of Seville. According to local lore, 16th-century nuns created the recipe. But it was an enterprising and well-fed señora who created national demand for the mantecado, perfecting the recipe in 1870 and ordering her husband to sell them en route to Córdoba. Today, Estepa’s 12,000 inhabitants refer to her affectionately as “La Colchona”—“The Mattress”—and credit her for the town’s 20-plus mantecado factories, which churn out 44 million sweet pounds between September and December.
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Calle Reposo, 9, 41002 Sevilla, Spain
Go for holiday cookies (such as the doughnut-shaped roscos) and gluten-free options (say, the corazon de Sta. Gertrudis, a heart-shaped marzipan tart). —Anna Vodicka

This appeared in the November/December 2016 issue.
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Calle San José, 4, 41004 Sevilla, Spain
Take in Mudéjar-style architecture with your magdalenas, marzipan-stuffed dates, and bienmesabe—“tastes good to me”—a confection of honey, egg yolk, and ground almonds. —Anna Vodicka

This appeared in the...
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Calle Doña María Coronel, 5, 41003 Sevilla, Spain
Order mantecados in sesame and almond, and tortitas de aceite , olive oil cakes, through a turnstile surrounded by azure tile and murals. —Anna Vodicka

This appeared in the November/December 2016 issue.
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Calle Águilas, 22, 41003 Sevilla, Spain
These enterprising sisters make mouthwatering mantecados and practice the art of bookbinding. —Anna Vodicka

This appeared in the November/December 2016 issue.
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Plaza de San Ildefonso, 28004 Madrid, Spain

The sisters of San Leandro have been making gooey, yolk-and-sugar yemas for more than 400 years. —Anna Vodicka

This appeared in the November/December 2016 issue.