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Glimpses Of Paris...as 'home' and from afar

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It really is The Most Beautiful city...and it really is "a moveable feast." (I got to call it home for a year.) Grand and intimate, everyone needs to visit at least once. Don't fall into the trap of thinking of it as a theme park, though--you may well meet rude waiters and rub shoulders with bermuda-shorted tourists. And yes, you'll probably have to cover your nose in some subway stations. But it's Paris--a world unto itself that still acts as a beacon to the rest of the world...
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Rue de l'Hôpital Saint-Louis, 75010 Paris, France
Early spring, Paris can be a moody place. Flowers just beginning to poke up through damp soil under low grey skies, a rainstorm solidifies into sleet...then the clouds lift right at sunset, and the swollen Seine takes on the green of a newly...
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The year I lived in Paris was the year the SMART cars were introduced--ultra compact, designed so that DEUX could park in the space for UN... A couple of years later, at the end of a visit back to France, our friends thought it would be fun for us...
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75001 Paris, France
Stand on the the quais beneath the Pont Neuf bridge—the city's oldest crossing of the Seine—and look up. Staring down at you are mascarons, stone faces that resemble gargoyles, but without bodies. No two of these grotesque visages are the same....
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79 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris, France
We enjoyed a glass of red wine and dessert at the café on the grounds of Le Musée Rodin. The trees, thinned from winter, gave the gardens a gothic air, as if to suggest the possibility of specters and spooks emerging from its graveled paths. That...
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79 Rue de la Tour, 75116 Paris, France
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Paris is a city of lovers...of dog-lovers. Yes, there are the couples embracing on the Seine--impossibly romantic and timeless...but anyone who's been to the City of Light also knows that Parisians, even within the constraints of their urban...
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6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris, France
For a first-time visitor to Notre Dame, investing in the audio guide is essential to immerse in and understand this overwhelmingly significant Paris icon. There's a lot to see and absorb—history, architecture, artifacts,...
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24 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris-8E-Arrondissement, France
Here at the très chic Boulangerie Fauchon, on the Place de la Madeleine in the heart of Paris, the loaves can look almost too good to eat. In French, the idiomatic equivalent for 'window-shopping' is "leche-vitrine," which literally means...
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Paris, France
Serendipitous light on a September afternoon--a rainbow arcing over the Eiffel Tower and ending at the gold dome of L'Église des Invalides in central Paris. (Under that dome, emperor worship continues--Napoléon I lies buried in a crypt in the...
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88 Rue Saint-Denis, 92700 Colombes, France
Just before I left the States to go live in Paris for a year, I met a young woman who played the cello. I had no idea at the time that I would return from France to marry her. We ended up writing each other...frequently. I would walk along the...
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4th arrondissement, 75004 Paris, France
Wandering among the Renaissance buildings in the Marais district in Paris, this courtyard in the 15th-c. Hôtel de Sens gave me one of my favorite visual memories of the city--this corner balcony. You just have to love the irreverance of the...
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102 Rue de Provence, 75009 Paris, France
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The Eiffel Tower decks and Sacre Coeur Montmartre overlook Paris, but they are so crowded. One has to fight for a picture of the gray rooftops and spires of the Parisian skyline. The rooftop cafe at the Printemps department store in Paris has all...
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Avenue de la Grande-Armée, Paris, France
Paris: the view looking west from the top of the Arc de Triomphe. Of course, the Eiffel Tower has THE view over the City of Lights, but in the mid-19th century, this monument (commissioned in 1806 by Napoléon I, finished in the 1830's), was one of...
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Pont des Arts, 75006 Paris, France
Strolling over the Pont des Arts, in spite of the tourists, and the cliché, bereted accordian player busquing for a Euro... even with the lovers buying locks to place on the fencing, and the nasal wail of the Bateaux Mouches loudspeakers floating...
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48 Rue de Courcelles, 75008 Paris, France
In the 8th arrondissement of Paris, just down the street from the Parc Monceau, is this unexpected piece of...China? On a corner of the Place du Pérou, this 'pagoda' has been a landmark in this part of the French capital for decades. Ching Tsai...
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77300 Fontainebleau, France
A quick 40-minute train ride from the Gare de Lyon in central Paris takes you to one of the best day trips out of the city: a forest preserve surrounding a palace that dates back nine centuries. The Forêt de Fontainebleau offers a hundred square...
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La Défense, France
On the western edge of Paris, at the end of the grand 'axe historique' that runs from the Louvre down the Champs Élysées and on past the Arc de Triomphe, rises the futuristic skyscraper business district known as "La Défense." Its centerpiece is...
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Belleville, 75020 Paris, France
In the Belleville neighborhood of Paris, this wall that would otherwise be nondescript brick is covered in unlikely art, with the caveat: "beware of words." A bit of artistic 3-D in the 20th arrondissement, by the artist Benjamin Vautier. (To see...
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37bis Rue Sainte-Anne, 75001 Paris, France
For years now, the neighborhood between the Palais-Royal and the Opéra Garnier has been a hangout for Japanese and Korean ex-pats and visitors in Paris, with the Rue Sainte Anne as its culinary epicenter. Lined with Japanese restaurants and Korean...
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18 Place des Abbesses, 75018 Paris, France
No matter how often the Parisian cityscape is praised and photographed, it's never a let-down to behold it in person...especially if you get to claim it as "yours" from your very own room-with-a-view. With narrow streets and dense population, it's...
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Quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris, France
The location for the most charming scenes in the movie Amélie, this once-forgotten neighborhood is now a destination for the young and fun-loving. As soon as the weather turns warm, picnickers line the paths along this...