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Four days in Sofia

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We have only 4 days to see the city, so we want to make the most of it.
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Bulevard "Evlogi i Hristo Georgiev" 99А, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria
I still don't know what drew us to it. Somehow we sensed that there was something good to be found beyond an open courtyard, and we hung around long enough to follow someone around the back of a building, through a doorway, and up some stairs, to...