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Five Days: Tel Aviv and the Galilee

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From Israel's Modern Capital to Select Stops in the Seaside Holy Land, with Old Acre in between.
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Identified as the site of Jesus Christ’s so-called Sermon on the Mount, this flower-accented hillside spot could—depending on your beliefs—be merely a nice place for a church visit or a deeply meaningful point of arrival. It was somewhere in...
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Tabgha, Israel
Commemorating the spot where Jesus performed the miracle of the loaves and fishes, early Christians created a small wonder of their own: the 5th-century mosaic floors that now reside within the Church of the Multiplication. In forms both...
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Rosh Pinna, 12000, Israel
Located between Akko and the Sea of Galilee, this working kibbutz and spa hotel is the perfect recharge. I know that sounds cliché, but bear with me. First off, the backstory goes like this: a German-born homeopathic doctor stumbled upon the...
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Ha-Hagana St, Acre, Israel
The smallest holding in the mini-empire of Uri Jeremias, who also owns Akko’s Uri Buri restaurant and Efendi Hotel, this bright and no-frills ice cream shop sits along the old city’s western seafront. These are natural treats, made using local...
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El Jazzar St, Acre, Israel
There are a few stands worth stopping at inside the covered, one-lane Turkish Bazaar, a tidy marketplace within the Old City that’s got a more modern feel than the outdoor souks. This is one of them: a cup or two of sludgy and invigorating Turkish...
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Capernaum, Israel
There’s a modern-looking church here, with a glass floor installed that lets you peer down into the ruins of St. Peter’s house. More compelling, I thought, were the remains of a synagogue from the early Byzantine era, with its elegant columns and...
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Louis HaTshi'i St, Acre, 24124, Israel
Tucked into the ancient, magical maze that is Old Acre, the Efendi Hotel looks out onto the city walls and the sea just beyond. Combining two Ottoman palaces, this labor of love from celebrity chef Uri Jeremias—whose nearby restaurant, Uri...
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Ha-Hagana Street, Acre, 24315, Israel
Merchants, pilgrims, and warriors have gone out of their way to visit Akko over the centuries. If foodies have joined that list in recent years, it’s thanks to this innovative fish-and-seafood restaurant. Housed in a 400-year-old Ottoman house...
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Acre, Israel
This 12th-century mini-city was home to the Hospitaller knights in the Crusader period, one of the major eras in Old Acre’s history. It’s been nicely restored; I really enjoyed strolling through what remains of the two-acre compound, with its...
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Ahad Ha'Am St 6, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
This organic café moved from its former spot in a village north of Tel Aviv, and comes across as a happy mix of enlightened urbanity and rural roots. (Most of the ingredients still come from the original location.) Breakfast here is covered if you...
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Rothschild Blvd 71, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
This is some prime real estate: right along the tree-lined artery that contains so much of the cultural heritage of modern Tel Aviv. Built in 1934, in the Bauhaus style still so prevalent in this part of the city, this 25-room hotel has clean,...
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Shabazi St 55, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
A perfect way to start the morning in Tel Aviv: plein-air breakfast on the most charming street in Neve Tzedek. Lulu’s may look like a French bistro, but the spread I ordered (a variety of warm breads with the usual dips of tahini, hummus, creamy...
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Kalischer St 25, Yafo, 6516505, Israel
While it’s located mere minutes from Tel Aviv’s trademark beaches, the Brown TLV Urban Hotel is decidedly city-centric. Not coincidentally, it’s also in the center of town, surrounded by an array of distinctive neighborhoods like...