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Europe 2015

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Vossenplein, 1000 Brussel, Belgium
Jeu de Balles is a quintessential flea market set in the heart of the Marolles District of Brussels that runs daily through the morning. My favorite time to go is on Sunday when the square is filled with the most vendors who sell anything from...
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Gleimstraße 55, 10437 Berlin, Germany
Every Sunday in Berlin the world of kitschy fleamarket finds and cool hipster crowds meet at Mauerpark Market in Berlin. The market is full of antiques and dusty relics but also mixed with stalls of young designers selling inventive new fashions...
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Jackson, WY, USA
Hop on your bike in downtown Jackson and ride 20 absurdly scenic miles to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park. The mountains watch over you as you pass through the National Elk Refuge. You can also stop off at the National Museum of Wildlife...
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Via Mauro Comite, 9, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Built into rocky green cliffs that tumble down to the sea, the Hotel Santa Caterina is the embodiment of Amalfi Coast dreams. Bright bougainvillea blooms adorn corners of the 19th-century mansion, while lush terraced gardens teem with citrus...
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Filisur, Switzerland
Going for a drive on a Sunday afternoon in the Romansch-speaking high country in Graubunden, Switzerland, where road and railroad crisscross each other frequently in the Alps, often on century-old stone bridges. I was staying with a...
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Oderberger Str. 35, 10435 Berlin, Germany
The baristas here know a trick or two about coffee and Bonanza Coffee Roasters is one of the names that always comes up when discussing Berlin's best coffee. An amazing and hard to find Synesso Cyncra espresso machine is the center of attention in...
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Tomtom Mahallesi, Ara Güler Sk No:2, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Turkey
Cafe Ara was a perfect stop on a rainy chilly day in the Taksim/Beyoglu part of Karakoy, Istanbul, Turkey. The cafe is named after a magnificent Turkish photographer who worked in Istanbul and whose large format black and white images adorn the...
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8 Southwark St, London SE1 1TL, UK
Over the past two centuries, the covered market at Borough, not far from London Bridge, has become one of the country’s most famous foodie spots. From Wednesday to Saturday each week hundreds of traders gather to sell homemade breads,...
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Via Brera, 23, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
My friend Andy says you can't go to Milan without having an evening in Brera, the tiny artsy area adjacent to Milan's fashion center. Bar Brera is the hangout of choice for expensive liquor and people watching.
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Corso Como, 10, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
The avant-garde interiors of 10 Corso Como match the mod, edgy clothes—everything from kaleidoscopic Ferragamo sandals to python-skin Margiela wallets. This appeared in the May 2015 issue.
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Grünberger Str. 75, 10245 Berlin, Germany
The weekly flohmarkt (flea market) in Friedrichshain's Boxhagener Platz is a popular spot where locals meet up for shopping, drinking, or just a bit of fun each Sunday. While the Mauer Park flea market gets most of the tourists, this one is far...
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Piazza San Marco, 52, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Few people know about the Museo Correr and yet it is in plain sight within San Marco square. For those looking for quality time within a museum dedicated to the history of Venice - from ships flags, to visiting Popes, books, maps and old coins (to...
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The Ponte dell'Accademia is one of four bridges that span the Grand Canal, and will get you quickly from San Marco to the labyrinthine Dorsoduro neighborhood. Originally built in 1854 out of steel, the current wooden bridge was built in the 1930s...
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Fondamenta Nani, 992, 30123 Dorsoduro, Venezia VE, Italy
If you are in Venice, you will surely get familiar with local spritz (a fizzy, refreshing aperitif) and cicchetti, or small snacks. If you want to have a local experience, be sure to stop by Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi while walking around La...
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Campiello Traghetto, 2467, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
The Gritti Palace's Bar Longhi is possibly one of the hottest tickets in Venice. It's where Hemingway drank his way through evenings while he was staying upstairs finishing his novel, Across the River and Through the Trees. Many other celebrated...
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Fondamenta Zitelle, 86, 30133 Venezia VE, Italy
It seems like a miracle that anything in Venice could be affordable. But now that the 36-room Generator Hostel opened on Venice's Guidecca Island, the budget-minded can breathe more easily when dropping anchor in Venice. Better yet,...
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Dorsoduro, 853/A, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
Bars like Gino's in the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice are the kind of Italian institutions that I hope never go away. It's what you might call an Italian sports bar, with daily newspapers hanging about and a loyal local following that can be...
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Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
A Naples legend well before Julia Roberts (in Eat, Pray, Love) gave it celebrity sheen, Da Michele was opened by the Condurro family in 1930. The only pizzas are marinara and margherita, and they are pure classics. 39/081-553-9204. Read Tom...
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Supetar, Croatia
Most people would visit Hvar Island to party when they are up on the port of Split in Croatia. We chose another place- Supetar on Brac island and to our surprise, it did not disappoint at all. The little town has a mix of pebble beaches, baroque...
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Mystras 231 00, Greece
In a country full of beautiful historic sites, this may have been my favorite to explore. It has so much: a beautiful hilltop setting that offers views for miles; ruins that you can clamber over; restored Byzantine churches with incredible fresco...
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If you believe in taking the scenic route, you'll have a tough time finding a better one than this. The road from Sparti to Kalamata snakes along beneath limestone peaks, then climbs into the cool highlands, which offer beautiful vistas, before...
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Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
The Baths of Caracalla, a third century bathing complex located near the Circus Maximus, was the center of social life for tens of thousands of Romans who would gather there—around 10,000 at a time—to exercise, bathe, and relax. Admission was...
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Via del Caravita, 8a, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
While a lot of people would go see the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome, fewer travelers venture out to this grand church at the Piazza di San Ignacio near the Pantheon, which features an almost equally beautiful painted ceiling done by Andrea...
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Viale della Marina, 40-42, 00122 Lido di Ostia RM, Italy
According to legend, Rome’s first orange tree—St. Dominic’s gift to the pope—was planted in Giardino degli Aranci (Garden of the Oranges) in the 13th century. The secluded park provides a panoramic view of the city, from...
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Piazza della Minerva, 42, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome's center, it's a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi...
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Via Caio Cestio, 6, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
One of our family favorite activities on a Sunday afternoon in Rome is a wander in the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Testaccio. We particularly love it in winter. I know, it is more picturesque and colorful in the spring and early summer, but even on...
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Largo di Villa Peretti, 2, 00185 Roma RM, Italy
If one single space encapsulates the Roman Empire, it would be Palazzo Massimo, Rome’s multilevel museum housing one of Italy’s richest collections of antiquities. The entire history of Rome, from the rise of the Republic to its...
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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Piazza di S. Luigi de' Francesi, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
In 1589, the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi became the official church of Rome’s French community, and with true Bourbon flair, the church's decorations are a celebration of France's power and wealth, with gilded stucco, lavish...
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Via Ostiense, 106, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
Tired of the crowds? Go to the Centrale Montemartini in Ostiense. No lines. In fact, no other people. At all. Usually I am the only one there. Wander the ancient Roman sculptures and extraordinary mosaic floor set in the former power plant;...
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Quartiere Coppedé is an unexpected and bizarre area in Rome developed by architect Gino Coppedè (1866-1927). A collection of about fifteen buildings, which are closest to Art Nouveau in style, it post dates Art Nouveau by 10-20 years. Near Viale...
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Via Lemonia, 221, 00174 Roma RM, Italy
Cycling through Aqueduct park in Rome
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Via della Caffarella, Roma RM, Italy
The Parco della Caffarella is part of the larger Parco Regionale dell'Appia Antica, a vast public park that is protected from development. Just a short walk from the city center, and flanked by a dense neighborhood, the Parco della Caffarella...
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Viale della Moschea, 85, 00199 Roma RM, Italy
Whenever I travel, I always try to seek out local mosques. There are spectacular odes to marble and calligraphy across the "Muslim" world and far beyond, ranging from the mammoth Hassan II mosque in Casablanca to a charming sea-green confection in...
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A vast network of ancient aqueducts converged on the center of Rome to provide water to 1 million residents and their public fountains and baths during the Empire. Today, the ruins of these imperial structures have been transformed into houses,...
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Piazza Giovanni Agnelli, 10, 00144 Roma RM, Italy
The Museo Della Civiltà Romana (Museum of Roman Civilization) is a fascinating destination. Made up largely of replicas of Roman artwork and scale models of Roman buildings (including an impressive scale model of the city of Rome as it appeared...
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Via di Santa Prassede, 9, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
The 8th century Saint Zeno Chapel in the Church of Santa Prassede was built by Pope Paschal to serve as a funeral chapel for his mother Theodora. The Pope employed talented artisans to bedazzle the chapel in gold and glass mosaics, which can still...
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Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Most visitors to Piazza Bocca della Verità are enticed by the so-called Mouth of Truth, an ancient drain cover anchored to a wall inside the portico of the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. The Mouth of Truth features a carved face with a gaping...
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Via Federico Ozanam, 30-32, 00152 Roma RM, Italy
Monteverde's vibrant pizzeria and trattoria is an enclave of local flavor—from its excellent menu of fritti (fried starters), sfizi (delicious antipasti), and pizzas to its busy clientele. Owner Giancarlo Casa is a pizza perfectionist, and...
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Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent dough and creative toppings make La Fucina one of Rome's premier pizzerias. Pizzas are served to the table pre-sliced and one at a time (don’t even think about asking for them all at once, you’ll get an earful from owner Edoardo Papa!),...
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Via Valle Corteno, 31, 00141 Roma RM, Italy
Opened in the summer of 2011, Tonda quickly became the hottest pizzeria in town. The place serves thick-rimmed Neapolitan style pizza (like at Sforno) and trapizzini (like at Trapizzino). The owners are the same for all three renowned pizzerias....
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Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This historic bakery in Campo de' Fiori serves good pizza bianca and excellent pizza rossa, as well as assorted slices, cookies, and pastries. The neighboring annex across the alley (Vicolo del Gallo 14) serves sandwiches and baked goods. Drop in...
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Via dei Chiavari, 34, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
One of Rome's best bakeries and among the city's most historic institutions, Antico Forno Roscioli is a family-run business. Depending on the time of day, you might find patriarch Marco or his son Pierluigi hard at work. There are a variety of...
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Via degli Scipioni, 248, 00192 Roma RM, Italy
La Pratolina, a pizzeria in Prati that is open for dinner only, serves some of the best fritti (fried starters) in town. I dare say the sfizi (mixed croquette plates) are worth a trip alone. But you should stay for the pizza—or as they call it...
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116, Via Statilio Ottato, 110, 00175 Roma RM, Italy
Excellent fried starters, delectable pizzas, and a large selection of craft beers make this one of Rome's best pizzerias. The style is Neapolitan with a high rim, as opposed to the thin crusted Roman style. The Greenwich (stilton and port...
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Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Arrive at this classic Roman pizzeria before 8pm or be prepared to queue for its scrocchiarella (crispy thin crust) Roman style pizza. Start with a few fritti (fried starters) and a plate of beans, the traditional starters to Roman pizza meals....
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Via dei Santi Quattro, 24, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
This busy pizzeria in the Celio, the neighborhood adjacent to the Colosseum, is decked out in kitschy Roman decor. The dining room resembles a piazza of sorts, surrounded by old school storefronts anchored to the walls. Six nights a week, Li Rioni...
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Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Gabriele Bonci's famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried...
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Via del Monte della Farina, 28, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
At Pizzeria Emma in central Rome, siblings Francesco and Ilaria Roscino have teamed up with gourmet gurus the Roscioli brothers to open Emma. There are deceptively light fried starters like rice croquettes, mozzarella-filled squash blossoms, and...