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Dreaming of Paris

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A shopping, eating, and drinking guide for my next trip to France.
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43 Rue des Petites Écuries, 75010 Paris, France
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Now you can sample the cuisine of celebrated local chefs by visiting their walk-in wine bars. Braden Perkins eases his elegant culinary style at Verjus’s downstairs bar (47 Rue de Montpensier), where groups share small plates of succulent pork...
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34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, France
Situated a block from the Canal St.-Martin in the 10th arrondissement, Du Pain et des Idées is your favorite corner bakery—only better. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, was named best boulanger in Paris in 2008, and for good reason....
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37 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, France
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The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the...
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11 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris, France
Months before it welcomed its first guest, the Jules et Jim Hotel (whose name is a nod to the 1962 Truffaut film) had already positioned itself as a right-bank destination for night owls. Amid the mess of the hotel's construction, locals were...
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10 Avenue d'Iéna, 75116 Paris, France
The former residence of Napoleon Bonaparte’s grandnephew, on a hill leading down to the Seine next to the Trocadéro, has been converted into this striking palace hotel whose airy, light-filled spaces by Pierre-Yves Rochon showcase...
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37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
Located at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, a stone’s throw from the Seine and draped in the shadow of Notre Dame, is what should be proclaimed one of France’s national treasures: the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. This is...
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Giverny, France
The sun was warm and had a different illumination that came through this photograph of Monet's gardens. This father and child felt like a moment in time captured that could be 1811 or 2011.
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173 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
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Astier de Villatte is well known for its light weight white porcelain plates and dishes, all shown in a big wooden closet at the entrance hall of the store, alongside home perfumes, candles and other colored decorative dishes. It serves as a...
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46 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, France
Since 1831 Deyrolle has been the taxidermist for Parisians. In the two-story shop on the lovely Rue du Bac, you'll find everything from domestic animals and large exotic mammals (lions! zebras!) to insects, shells, birds, and educational...
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18-20 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris, France
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At first glance, this cookware emporium feels like a dusty relic. But dig a little deeper, especially in the basement, and you’ll find just about anything you could need for the kitchen, along with plenty of treasures you don’t—duck press, anyone?...
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12 Rue Perrée, 75003 Paris, France
The limited-edition Nikes and kiosk of independent magazines (Corpus, Out of Order, System) at this brilliantly edited multibrand boutique in the upper Marais recall the city’s renowned concept shop Colette. But its abundant natural light, and...
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111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, France
Walking on Blvd Beaumarchais, you can find some real Parisian gems. One of them is Merci, a well known chic, ethnic concept store, hidden at the back of a courtyard in number 111 of the Boulevard. At the entrance to the store, there is an old red...
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24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
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Twice a year Paris goes on Sale, with bargains to be had in almost every store in the City. Some of the luxury boutiques, like Louis Vuitton, don't participate at all, while others just keep it discreet, placing the sales items in a back room....
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9 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris, France
I like to buy notebooks and pencils and paper as my souvenirs. There’s always the faint, almost imperceptible, hope that the purchase will inspire me to write something pithy although my penmanship, having been twenty years removed from regular...
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142 Rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris, France
Past the bouncer and down a black staircase 32 feet below ground is Paris's most buzzed-about semi-private club, Le Silencio. Housed where Molière was allegedly buried and Zola printed "J'accuse", it's of little surprise that the enigmatic...
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69 Rue de Lyon, 75012 Paris, France
Paris boasts an unusual elevated park, La Promenade Plantée, built atop an abandoned elevated railway viaduct in the 12th arrondissement. It starts a block east of the Place de la Bastille and stretches for 2.9 elevated miles. Landscape architect...
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3 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France
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Has a restaurant ever haunted you? Well Avant Le Comptoir has haunted me for a couple of years over several trips to Paris. Much is written about chef Yves Camdeborde. His bistro Le Comptoir de Relais is in all of the hip guides to Paris. But I...
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52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France
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Prior to opening the amazing Verjus Restaurant and Verjus wine bar, Americans Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian owned the Hidden Supper Club, an Internet-access-only series of hosted meals in their Palais Royal apartment. Luckily for us, the moved...
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52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France
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A boon to taco-starved expats when it opened five years ago, this taqueria-meets-cocktail lounge has been consistently good since day one. Tuck into tacos, tostadas and deliciously chunky guacamole in the narrow taqueria, then head past the...