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Christmas in Paris

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17 Rue Montorgueil, 75001 Paris, France
So, you think you know Paris? There are hundreds of memorable streets and boulevards in the City of Lights. But, for my money, Rue Montorgueil is the best. It is compact, only three blocks long, with a metro stop at each end. In between, you have...
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37 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, France
The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the...
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Paris, France
My wife and two friends were tired of "museums" so they mistakenly decided to go shopping while I went to the Rodin Museum alone. It was breathtaking, the flowers were all in full bloom, the art on display inside was rare and beautiful, but the...
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6 Rue de la Grange Batelière, 75009 Paris, France
Passages were designed in the 19th century to give Parisians protection from muddy streets and horse-drawn vehicles. Some 20 of these covered walkways remain today, including the Passage Verdeau; they are an excellent way to journey back into...
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10 Place de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris, France
In 1963 artist Marc Chagall was commissioned by the French Minister of Culture to repaint the Paris Opera House ceiling. The artist choice was controversial because, although a French nationalized citizen, Chagall was a Russian Jew, and a modern...
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97 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 Paris, France
A near-daily ritual was a visit to this nearby Marais fromagerie, featuring an outstanding selection of cheeses and knowledgeable help. In the U.S., one often sees Brie, Camembert, Boursin, and Roquefort, but most of the 350-400 kinds of French...
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134 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris, France
Tasting the city's best baguettes is one thing, but wouldn't it also be great to learn how to make them? Award-winning baker Benjamin Turquier, shown, runs the bakery 134 RdT and placed in the top 10 in this year's annual Best Baguette in Paris...
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1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012 Paris, France
During oyster season from October through April (any month with an “r” in it), locals flock to Le Baron Rouge, a lowbrow wine bar in the 12th arrondissement. Customers use just about any available space (the tops of recycling bins, the roofs of...
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Pont des Arts, 75006 Paris, France
Strolling over the Pont des Arts, in spite of the tourists, and the cliché, bereted accordian player busquing for a Euro... even with the lovers buying locks to place on the fencing, and the nasal wail of the Bateaux Mouches loudspeakers floating...
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Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, France
Wheeled out just over a year ago, Le Camion Qui Fume* is responsible for pioneering the food truck movement in Paris. In a city where burgers of all forms and quality have largely become ubiquitous, it was going to take something special to make...
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35 Boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 Paris, France
I've been to Parc Monceau only once and loved it right away. Maybe because it has a homey, neighborhood feeling, (a public park situated in the 8th arrondissement of Paris) maybe because of the classical colonnade in the middle of it, or maybe...
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1 Rue Jules Vallès, 75011 Paris, France
World famous French chef Alain Ducasse, who has been honored with many Michelin stars for his restaurants around the globe, has just opened the first bean to bar chocolate shop in Paris. Nestled in a courtyard in the Bastille area, the former...
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Giverny, France
The sun was warm and had a different illumination that came through this photograph of Monet's gardens. This father and child felt like a moment in time captured that could be 1811 or 2011.
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20 Rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris, France
It would be impossible to choose among more than 350 scents from niche perfume makers around the world (such as Florence’s Lorenzo Villoresi and Hamburg’s Biehl Parfumkunstwerke) save for a proprietary diagnostic tool that uses your past favorites...
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19 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011 Paris, France
The hubbub about burgers in Paris may have slowed since the end of last year but the movement continues to evolve; the Anglo staple is now an ever-present fixture on menus, from basic brasseries to upscale nouveau-bistros. Patty fans are more...
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34 Quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris, France
If ever there were a reason to make a beeline for Paris's 13th arrondissement, it would be to revel in Wanderlust, the space that opened last summer at Les Docks –Cité de la Mode et du Design along the formerly derelict industrial embankment of...
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80 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
Did you know that only 25% of French people buy their cheese from a fromagerie? And of that 25, only 3-4% go to an affineur (cheese refiner). Both are the sad realities of a dying tradition in France of sourcing provisions from neighborhood...
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Père-Lachaise, 75020 Paris, France
Pere Lachaise has got to be the coolest cemetery in the world. Although that claim is subject to personal opinion it is the largest cemetery in the city of Paris and one of it's oldest (Note that I have also visited Lafayette in New Orleans and...
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1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 75007 Paris, France
Small enough to get around without being overwhelmed, the Musée d'Orsay is a favorite stop in Paris not just for its size but for its collection of impressionist, postimpressionist, and art nouveau art. Perfectly set in the center of the...
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109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
Have you been here? Tell us about it below!
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132-140 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, France
Marché aux Puces de St.-Ouen, aka Clignancourt, is Europe’s largest flea market and the city’s favorite place to find a bargain. Exiting the metro at Porte de Clignancourt, those in the know pass by the counterfeit...
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37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
Located at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, a stone’s throw from the Seine and draped in the shadow of Notre Dame, is what should be proclaimed one of France’s national treasures: the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. This is...
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162 Bis Quai de Polangis, 94340 Joinville-le-Pont, France
Chez Gégène: On the Marne, a full band fires up the crowd at this grande dame of guinguettes. 162 Bis Quai de Polangis, Joinville-le-Pont, 33/(0) 1-48-83-29-43. This appeared in the June/July 2014 issue. Read more about Paris's Riverside Dance...
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Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
This former royal palace is one of the largest museums in the world, and its art collection is considered one of the most comprehensive. It contains around 400,000 works, although—mercifully, perhaps—not all are on display at any one...
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93 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
Located in the Richelieu wing, Le Café Marly place to lunch and lounge on the terrace looking directly onto IM Pei pyramid in the Louvre courtyard. The food is a little overpriced for what it serves, but is good for classic French cuisine. You...
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3 Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 75014 Paris, France
Step off the beaten path that leads to Jim Morrison’s grave at Père Lachaise and head instead to the lesser-known, yet extraordinary Montparnasse Cemetery. Locals bring metro tickets to leave on Serge Gainsbourg’s grave in...
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1 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris, France
The Latin Quarter has a great dining atmosphere for those after budget friendly meals in a lively environment. street after street crammed with restaurants that are bursting at the seams with decorations, tables and persuasive waiters. Many have...
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36 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris, France
Like soufflé? Or never had it but looking for a great first time experience? Le Soufflé in Paris has you covered. Select their "menu" and you will have three: starter, entrée, and dessert. Le Soufflé is an institution and you will undoubtedly be...
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La Défense, France
If you're in Paris during the wintertime, you're obligated to visit at least one of the many magical Christmas Markets set up across the city. Although often overlooked because of its location in the business sector of Paris, the La Defense...
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41250 Chambord, France
...early summer light filtering through a window in the 16th-century Chateau de Chambord. This Renaissance palace began as a hunting lodge for François I. Leonardo da Vinci may have played a role in designing part of it. Today, it's the largest...
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28 Rue du Sommerard, 75005 Paris, France
The Cluny Museum, located in the 5th arrondissement, is one of my favorite museums in Paris. It was formerly the town house (hôtel) of the abbots of Cluny, started in 1334. The structure was rebuilt by Jacques d'Amboise, abbot of Cluny from...
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78000 Versailles, France
Versailles is known for its gilded halls, mirrors, chandeliers, endless tapestries etc. But the real eyebrow-raiser is out the back door to the grounds. The pools and greenery go on for so far you literally can't see the end of them. As you wander...
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Jardin Tuileries, 75001 Paris, France
Flanked by three Rodin statues, the glass and stone Musee de l'Orangerie is home to paintings by the greatest modernists - Picasso, Monet, Cezanne... There are only two floors in this white-walled museum. The second floor consists of two oval...
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1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris, France
In the 14th district of Paris are the Catacombs, also known as the underground ossuary (or l'Ossuaire Municipal) where 6 million skeletons are stacked in an orderly fashion and date back several centuries ago. This was done because Paris...
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14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris, France
The Gustave Moreau museum stands in a beautiful house previously owned by the artist that became a gallery for his work once he passed away. His art is showcased on every wall of the house, a quiet space to sit in the upstairs area allows for...
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79 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris, France
We enjoyed a glass of red wine and dessert at the café on the grounds of Le Musée Rodin. The trees, thinned from winter, gave the gardens a gothic air, as if to suggest the possibility of specters and spooks emerging from its graveled paths. That...
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Without a doubt Versailles is the most luxurious palace in Europe, built to astound visitors and impress the king's subjects into awed submission with crystal chandeliers, gilt, and fine art. This opulent monument is also attractive...
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17 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris, France
Serendipitous light on a September afternoon--a rainbow arcing over the Eiffel Tower and ending at the gold dome of L'Église des Invalides in central Paris. (Under that dome, emperor worship continues--Napoléon I lies buried in a...
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Place des Vosges, Paris, France
This beautiful square is one the city's oldest; set in Le Marais, it's surrounded by grand houses and an arched walkway lined with galleries and quaint cafés. At Number 6, you'll find the former home of Victor Hugo, author of "The Hunchback of...