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Av. Italia 1634, Ñuñoa, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Filled with gourmet Chilean goodies—tinned fish, jars of jam and honey, coffee, oils, wine, and dried avocado bites—the shop also stocks handmade Chilean ceramics to serve it all on. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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Av. Italia 1439, Santiago, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
In an indoor shopping center called Estación Italia, this colorful leather shop run by a charming gent named Tomás Jara sells Panama hats, belts, and rainbow-colored satchels. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
This acclaimed ice cream parlor with more than 15 locations (most Santiago malls have one) dishes out every imaginable flavor. Regulars crave dulce de leche, lifted from the namesake caramel dessert. Or try the Chilean classic called café...
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Av Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins 227, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
This wall is an interactive art exhibit at the GAM. It was one of my favorite spots in Santiago. People embraced the idea, put thought into their responses and shared. It was a community activity. Turns out it's an international phenomenon started...
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José Victorino Lastarria 70, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Although I recommend hitting up the wine country (I've heard amazing things), if you don't have the time to do so, Bocanariz is a great alternative. We were able to taste some really great Chilean wines while noshing of delicious fare. The...
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391, - Rosal 383, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chilean wine is having a moment, with vintners discovering the myriad terroirs in the country spanning over 10 latitudes from the Pacific to the Andes--with over two dozen grape varietals. Many of the most avant-garde projects are small producers...
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Parque Metropolitano de Calle - Dominica, Recoleta, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Floating over 2,500 feet above Santiago is the gleaming white statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción atop Cerro San Cristóbal, St. Christopher's Hill—the highest point in the capital that is not the Andes. One of the most fun, and...
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14 - Antonia López de Bello, Recoleta, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Growing up in New York, I remember the graffiti on the street and subways, but the city's so cleaned up now that the only graffiti you might see is in the museum. But lo and behold, Santiago has its own hip, colorful neighborhood known for its...
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Fernando Márquez de La Plata 0192, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Nobel prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda built a quirky home for his secret lover, Matilde Urrutia, in the 1950s. He called the house "La Chascona," her nickname due to her wild, red hair. Neruda is a literary icon in Chile and was a bit of enigma....
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The Juan Fernandez Archipelago's largest and only inhabited island, Isla Robinson Crusoe, started out as a pirates' refuge, known most famously for Alexander Selkirk, a Scottish seaman who spent four years marooned there in the 18th century, which...
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Waiters and bartenders in tuxedos create a throwback 1950s feel that intensifies when you’re into your second, lightly frothy pisco sour and serenaded by a live tango band. This appeared in the March/April 2014 issue. Plaza Anibal Pinto 1182,...
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352 - Templeman, Valparaíso, Valparaiso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Pasta e Vino is often credited with starting Valparaíso's gastronomic revival nearly a decade ago. It started as a tiny restaurant with a group of tables off a colorful "pasaje," or side street in the port. Word spread, it took months to get a...
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Serrano 567, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
If during your travels you find yourself in Valparaíso, reserve an extra day or two to check out its nearby sister city, Viña del Mar. Just 20 minutes up the coast, this small beach town is a popular vacation destination for Chileans, and a great...
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Valparaíso, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Walking Valpariso takes effort, so when it was time for lunch and the door of Casa Cuatro Vientos was at last before me, it was a welcome entry. The resturant has an eagle's nest view of the seaport. The ceviche sampler, shrimp risotto, bread and...
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Ascensor Artillería, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Valparaiso is proud of its funiculars that run you up the hills in antique box cars and rails. The Ascensor Artilleria is more than 100 years old and a national monument. The modest fare and quick trip lands you right in front of the Naval and...
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Cerro Alegre, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
One of the delights of Valparaíso is exploring the colorful hillsides that ramble down towards the sea. Take the century-old funicular elevators Ascensor Concepción (Turri) or El Peral near the main plaza, constructed between 1883 and 1911. Once...
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Concón, Valparaiso Region, Chile
One of the most beloved traditions on the central Chilean coast is to stop for empanadas in the coastal village of Concón. Along the main drag, small mom-and-pop restaurants make crunchy, fried empanadas with a variety of fillings, notably the...
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Av. Borgoño 21303, Concón, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
When the inland summer heat gets to you, take a day trip and head west to the mighty Pacific, only an hour and a half away. North of the crowded resort area of Viña del Mar is Concon. Once a tiny village, Concon lines the azure Pacific like the...