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central coast of Chile

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Monte Alegre 149, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Built in the 1920s by a Croatian businessman, Palacio Astoreca underwent two years of refurbishment and restoration before opening its doors as a boutique hotel in 2012. The work was carried out to a meticulous degree, maintaining the original...
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Pedro Montt 2078, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
by Steven Bodzin Valparaiso has the world’s biggest concentration of hillside railways, known locally as ascensores, or elevators. Victorian developers built 30 of them to shuttle residents and their goods up and down the city’s steep coastal...
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Valparaíso, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Want to feel like a kid in a candy store again? You can—in Valparaiso. La Dulceria brings back the colors and sweetness of handmade sweets to Chile's cheery port on Cerro Alegre. Owner Ángela Alfageme learned and honed her craft in Barcelona...
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Concón, Valparaiso Region, Chile
One of the most beloved traditions on the central Chilean coast is to stop for empanadas in the coastal village of Concón. Along the main drag, small mom-and-pop restaurants make crunchy, fried empanadas with a variety of fillings, notably the...
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Concón, Valparaiso Region, Chile
North of the garden resort city of Viña del Mar along the scenic coastal highway, affluent Chilean families have vacationed in Concon for generations. Casadoca is a posh boutique hotel that feels more like visiting a wealthy friend on the coast...
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Valparaíso, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Casa Higueras was the first true boutique hotel to arrive in culturally captivating Valparaiso, renovating a 1930s mansion into a posh boutique hotel. Perched atop Cerro Alegre with 20 spacious rooms (many with ocean-view terraces) the decor is...
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Isla Negra, El Quisco, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Nobel prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda built one of his three houses in the tiny village of Isla Negra on the rocky coast north of the port of San Antonio in 1939. During his life, the house grew somewhat organically as he decorated with his whims...
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Cochrane 102, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Chile’s 4,000-milecoastline provides a bounty of seafood. At Los Porteños, trypastel de jaiba, crab served in a casserole with bread crumbs and cream.—Steven Bodzin 56/(0) 32-225-1915. This appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
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Cerro Alegre, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
One of the delights of Valparaíso is exploring the colorful hillsides that ramble down towards the sea. Take the century-old funicular elevators Ascensor Concepción (Turri) or El Peral near the main plaza, constructed between 1883 and 1911. Once...
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Zapallar, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Located adjacent to a tiny wharf in the posh beach enclave of Zapallar, Chiringuito is about the view and simply prepared Chilean seafood with little pretense. Zapallar is a refuge for the moneyed elite of Santiago and a Pacific cove surrounded by...
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352 - Templeman, Valparaíso, Valparaiso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Pasta e Vino is often credited with starting Valparaíso's gastronomic revival nearly a decade ago. It started as a tiny restaurant with a group of tables off a colorful "pasaje," or side street in the port. Word spread, it took months to get a...
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Ricardo de Ferrari 692, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
The poet Pablo Neruda redefined the city with hisOde to Valparaíso, calling it “the patched bow of a small courageous ship.” Today, visitors can tour his home, known as La Sebastiana. The building is now a museum with one of the city’s finest gift...