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Caitlin Schmidt’s Beijing

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临9 Zhong Lou Wan Hu Tong, Andingmen, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
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The old hutongs [alleys] near Drum Tower are lined with nameless snack shops selling what I call Chinese fast food. One staple is shui jiao, which are boiled dumplings typically filled with pork and fennel. You dip them in vinegar and soy sauce...
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11 Zengguang Rd, Haidian Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100037
Hai Wan Ju is a cheap spot to taste Beijing folk cooking. They make very good noodles—handmade, of course. The zha jiang mian—noodles with fried bean sauce and vegetables—is a classic Beijing noodle dish. Here, they also add pork. —Fuchsia Dunlop...
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China, Beijing Shi, Dongcheng Qu, Dongsi 10th Alley, 东四十条甲22号南新仓商务大厦1-2层 邮政编码: 100001
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You can’t leave Beijing without having Peking duck at Da Dong. I eat the crisp skin first, dipped in sugar. Then I pile the skin, meat, leek, cucumber, and sweet, fermented sauce onto pancakes. I finish by drinking the broth from the carcass. —...
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11 Beixiangfeng Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China
I first went to this restaurant, hidden deep in a crumbling hutong (alleyway) neighborhood, by myself in a rickshaw one foggy November evening. It’s one of those unique, authentic finds that have remained intact for decades. The roast duck is...