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jacqueline frank’s beijing

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临9 Zhong Lou Wan Hu Tong, Andingmen, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
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The old hutongs [alleys] near Drum Tower are lined with nameless snack shops selling what I call Chinese fast food. One staple is shui jiao, which are boiled dumplings typically filled with pork and fennel. You dip them in vinegar and soy sauce...
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11 Zengguang Rd, Haidian Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100037
Hai Wan Ju is a cheap spot to taste Beijing folk cooking. They make very good noodles—handmade, of course. The zha jiang mian—noodles with fried bean sauce and vegetables—is a classic Beijing noodle dish. Here, they also add pork. —Fuchsia Dunlop...
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Dongcheng, Beijing, China
“Our umbrellas are a part of our culture that is disappearing,” says Cheng Dehu, the owner of Beijing’s Ruo Shui Tang Oil Paper Umbrella Workshop. As China has modernized at a breakneck pace, most traditional oil paper umbrellas have been left...
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3 Chongwenmen Outer St, ChongWenMen, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China
One of my favorite moments in Beijing was sitting around the cozy circular bar at Noodle Bar for front-row action of the chef pulling our noodles by hand. The menu is simple and straightforward: all noodle soup with your choice of brisket, tendon...
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24 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
Explore the back streets near Andingmen Station for a glimpse of everyday life in the hutongs of Beijing. While in the area, stop for a drink at the unexpectedly hip Siif Cafe. As the sign out front says, they have good coffee, along with...
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China, Beijing Shi, Dongcheng Qu, Dongsi 10th Alley, 东四十条甲22号南新仓商务大厦1-2层 邮政编码: 100001
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You can’t leave Beijing without having Peking duck at Da Dong. I eat the crisp skin first, dipped in sugar. Then I pile the skin, meat, leek, cucumber, and sweet, fermented sauce onto pancakes. I finish by drinking the broth from the carcass. —...
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13 Fensiting Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
Ningxia is a region that borders Inner Mongolia. The food reflects the desert and grassland terrain. Go to the restaurant at the Ningxia Hotel for fantastic steamed mutton with wild herbs. Instead of the rice you’d find in southern China, here you...
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Want to learn how to make tasty dumplings? Or hand-pulled noodles? Or the cuisine of Hunan, Yunnan and Sichuan? The Hutong is a cozy retreat where you can gather with a small group and—all tools provided—learn how to make a dish or two. The Hutong...
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6 Fangyuan W Rd, Chaoyang Qu, China, 100096
This is the best place in Beijing to buy contemporary Chinese ceramics. Spin works with artists in Jingdezhen, China’s porcelain capital, and the pieces here are original, limited-edition works of art at competitive prices. Attractive vases,...
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2 Jiuxianqiao Rd, Chaoyang Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100096
How a complex of German-built factories became one of East Asia’s hottest art destinations is also the story of modern China. When construction on a number of electronics factories began in Dashanzi in 1956, the area was farmland. Joint...
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11 Beixiangfeng Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China
I first went to this restaurant, hidden deep in a crumbling hutong (alleyway) neighborhood, by myself in a rickshaw one foggy November evening. It’s one of those unique, authentic finds that have remained intact for decades. The roast duck is...
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China, Beijing Shi, Dongcheng Qu, 瓷器库胡同2 邮政编码: 100006
Li Qun Duck Restaurant is hidden in a Qianmen hutong. (To find it, follow the ducks painted on the hutong walls!) The restaurant doesn't put on airs, and feels effortlessly authentic despite the fact that pictures of statesman and ambassadors who...
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131 Fuchengmen Inner St, Xicheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China
It's easy to get temple fatigue in China. Many tourists make the mistake of trying to see as many temples as possible, as if checking them off an invisible checklist. If you want to add this temple to your list, it is a very famous one. It is...
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Qian Hai Bei Yan, ShiChaHai, Xicheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100009
One element of experiential travel is in the local transportation; in Beijing, the hutong pedicab tour is a great way to experience the city and learn how people lived, both past and present. Pedicabs wind through the narrow streets with open...
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24 Xinyuan Xili Middle St, Chaoyang Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100001
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Dumpling chain Din Tai Fung has gone from humble beginnings in Taiwan some 40 years ago to a presence in 10 countries, including Singapore, the United States, Australia, and Japan. The secret of its success lies in one item—xiaolongbao—a type of...
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Xicheng, Beijing, China
This adorable old woman reminded me of my grandmother despite the fact that they look nothing alike. I saw her outside Mr. Shi's Dumplings (74 Bao Cao Hutong) which was written up by Time Out Beijing and consequently was filled with white tourists...
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108 S Luogu Alley, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
Pass By Bar stood out a decade ago as the sole watering hole in a sleepy neighborhood. Now, as part of a strip with over one hundred cafes, bars, restaurants and souvenir shops, it stands as the veteran on the street. Begun by a backpacker who...
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171 Fuchengmen Inner St, Xicheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China
The Miaoying White Dagoba Temple was built in Yuan Dynasty as the personal temple of Kublai Khan, the grand son of Genghis Khan and founder of the Yuan Dynasty. The Temple is a traditional Chinese temple, with one difference, it contains a...
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3 Heizhima Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
A cooking school by day (Wednesdays and Sundays, to be specific), Black Sesame Kitchen hosts a 10-course family-style meal on Tuesday and Friday nights that allows visitors to sample Chinese dishes from a variety of regional cuisines. Most who...
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This venue closed in September 2017. How many restaurants can boast direct views of Tiananmen Square and Mao's Mausoleum? Capital M can, and its terrace is one of Beijing's best places for alfresco drinks. The restaurant serves continental...
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甲9 Fuxing Rd, Haidian Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100038
This museum on the west side of Beijing curates interesting, but less publicized exhibitions. Head next door to the military museum. The building is huge with high ceilings, giving the visitor the impression that everything is built on a massive...
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"Guijie" street is lined with hole-in-the-wall hot pot places. It's also home to one of my favorite courtyard restaurants, Huajiayiyuan 花家怡园, which serves some of the best Peking roast duck in the city. There's even a kung-fu noodle master and tea...
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China, Beijing Shi, Chaoyang Qu, S Sanlitun Rd, 三里屯南街4号院 邮政编码: 100001
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A lending library with more than 10,000 English-language books. A weekly slate of events, from poetry readings to winetastings to quizzes to movie screenings. A full menu of food. A superb single malt collection. "Something for everyone" sounds...
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Sanlitun, Chaoyang, China, 100001
A great pit stop from shopping at Sanlitun Village North. Great coffees, cupcakes and macaroons. I however really dig their soups and set lunches of wraps and salads.
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China, Beijing Shi, Xicheng Qu, ShiChaHai, 什刹海前海北沿15号 邮政编码: 100009
Quanjude, Da Dong and Duck de Chine have big fan bases when it comes to Beijing duck lovers, but one of my favorite places for bird is Xiao Wang Fu. The branch at Ritan Park is particularly fun when you can snag outdoor seats and enjoy your meal...
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Dongsi, Dongcheng, Beijing, China, 100001
This is a place for those who wax nostalgic about growing up during the cold war, or for those like me who weren't alive in those days, but still have a fascination with the red menace. RCC is a high-end boutique hotel, rooms start at 1488RMB a...
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Chaoyang, China, 100001
Co-existing amid electric and gas-powered buses, taxis and private sedans, scooters and bicycles and three-wheel vehicles, the sidecar motorcycle is a common sight on Beijing's busy streets. One group is using these handy vehicles to make a visit...
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China, Beijing Shi, Dongcheng Qu, Xinzhong St, 新中街乙12号 邮政编码: 100001
After decades of rule by innocuous lagers, a small revolution is brewing in Beijing's beer scene, with a handful of small-scale brew operations popping up over the past few years. Great Leap is among them and brings together foreign beer makers...
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22 Jiuxianqiao Rd, Chaoyang Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100016
The 300+ rooms business hotel is Swire's arm of business hotel and the second to open after EAST Hong KOng. It's where the trendy hipsters go to hang out and work at Domani the open office space in the day, and at Xian bar by night. Simple,...
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On a weekend morning, hop on Metro Line 10 to the Panjiayuan station and take exit B. Just down the road is the sprawling Panjiayuan Market, where hundreds of vendors sell their wares. It's essential to bring cash, patience, and a willingness to...
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42 Guozijian St, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100007
Located off the busy streets in the middle of a quiet hutong alley, this store has gone from modest to modern chic, and has moved into beautiful furniture. They used to have beautiful laser-cut wood accessories made by Chinese designers and have...
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65 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100009
This courtyard house converted to ten-room boutique hotel provides an enticing blend of seclusion -- it stands at the end of a sliver of an alley off a narrow street -- and proximity to the bustling Gulou area a short walk away. Rooms come with...