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Balkans

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Mostar 88000, Bosnia and Herzegovina
I can’t name all the ways our hostess made us feel at home—but I’ll list a few. When we arrived, road weary, she had muffins ready for us, baked with locally-grown, organic flour—and local fruit brandy. She dug up turtles to amuse our kids—despite...
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Baščaršija, Sarajevo 71000, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bascarcija, the Ottoman center of Sarajevo, is a lot like the markets of Istanbul. Or, it's a lot like what the markets of Istanbul would be like if they took a handful of Valium and relaxed. Nobody bustles, and nobody seems to be in a hurry. A...
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Kaptol, Sarajevo 71000, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Zlatna Ribica ("goldfish") Bar in Sarajevo, on Kaptol just north of Marsala Tita, has a Sarajevo-hipster-mixed-with-postwar-intellectual vibe, including the cluttered ephemera-filled decor, the thick cigarette smoke, and the handlebar-mustachioed...