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San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Visitors to Oaxaca who would like to acquire some beautiful embroidered clothing have a few options. There are women who sell their work along Alcalá street in the city center, and some can be found in the Benito Juarez market in the traditional...
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México 175 2, Centro, 71510 Ocotlán de Morelos, Oax., Mexico
Apolinar Aguilar is a blacksmith who lives in the town of Ocotlan, about 20 miles south of Oaxaca city. He makes swords, knives and martial arts weapons as well as domestic utensils such as letter openers and cake serving sets. He hand forges each...
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71510, Calle Pueblos Unidos 104, Centro, 71510 Ocotlán de Morelos, Oax., Mexico
Inside the main market in Ocotlan de Morelos there is a food stall called La Cocina de Frida ("Frida's Kitchen"), and standing behind the counter is none other than Frida Kahlo herself, or at least a reasonable facsimile. Owner Beatriz Vázquez...
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Santo Tomás Jalieza, Oaxaca, Mexico
The weavers in Teotitlan del Valle may be more renowned, but the backstrap loom weavers of Santo Tomás Jalieza are practicing the art in a way that dates back to very ancient times. The local market is set up in the main square and every day you...
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San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca, Mexico
The residents of San Martin Tilcajete (a village about 14 miles south of Oaxaca city) specialize in woodcarving. The fanciful wooden animals they create are sometimes called "alebrijes" They are usually carved from the wood of the copal tree from...
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San Bartolo Coyotepec, Oaxaca, Mexico
For travelers who appreciate folk art and crafts, there are a number of towns outside Oaxaca where artisans create beautiful pieces following age-old techniques. San Bartolo Coyotepec is a small Zapotec community just eight miles from Oaxaca. It...
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20 de Noviembre Loc. 39, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you'll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full...
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Miguel Hidalgo 1002, Zona Feb 10 2015, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The artisans in this region still use the traditional form of black clay pottery of their ancestors. I met artisan Ermundo de Coyotepec while traveling in this area.
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20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
The 20 de Noviembre market has a variety of food stalls where you can sample many Oaxacan specialties, but carnivores flock to the one corridor that's known as "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (the grilled meats aisle). Follow your nose to find...
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5 de Mayo 114, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This handicraft shop on the corner of 5 de Mayo and Morelos is impossible to miss: you can spot the lovely handcrafted pieces from the street through the floor-to-ceiling windows. You'll find an excellent selection of high quality items from...
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RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico
This handicraft shop in the center of Oaxaca is run by a group of women artisans. It's one of the best places in town to purchase well-priced handicrafts, and it's satisfying to know that the profits go to the women who produce the pieces. Walk...
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Reforma 402, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
Run by the talented Chef Pilar Cabrera, who also offers cooking classes through Casa de los Sabores, La Olla is an unpretentious restaurant offering Oaxacan specialties. Head to the upper-level dining room, which is more spacious than the ground...
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Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
Los Baúles de Juana Cata is a must-stop for anyone interested in high quality textiles. The boutique is run by Remigio Mestas Revilla, who is devoted to reviving and preserving lost or disappearing textile techniques. He works directly with...
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Calle de Mariano Abasolo 300, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
"For the best mole, I head to the 100-seat Quince Letras, where Celia Florian makes it both in the traditional style and in new ways. Her Spanish-style mole with almonds and olives is delicious," says Chef Rosio Sanchez. This appeared in the...
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Reforma 522, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico
This very modern kitchen in the center of Oaxaca City is the centerpiece of El Secreto, a bed and breakfast associated with Las Bugambilias. (Which is well-known in Oaxaca for its restaurant, La Olla, and the cooking school run by Pilar Cabrera.)...
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Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico
While most tourists take the hour-long bus ride out of Oaxaca to Teotitlán del Valle for the rugs, we went there for the food. Specifically, to try pre-hispanic food at a small restaurant run by three sisters, called Tlamanalli. Eating here will...