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3 Delicious Days in Downtown Mexico City, D.F.

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Some 3 million international visitors come to Mexico City each year (12 million total), most of them for business or transit. But I’m here for the city itself, to try to learn as much as I can about this place in only a few days. It’s a daunting task. Mexico City is the largest city in the Western hemisphere, a high-altitude capital with 170 museums, four UNESCO World Heritage sites, and one of the most famous open market and street food scenes in the world.
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Tepic 5, Roma Sur, 06760 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
After a morning of urban cycling, we choose a shaded, open-air balcony table at Romita Comedor and each order a beer, tequila, and sangrita, then discuss Mexico City's prospects with Michael Parker-Stainback, a U.S.–born journalist, translator,...
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Calle Isabel la Catolica 30, Centro Histórico, Centro, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Hands down the best place to stay in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico is the aptly named Downtown. Located inside a restored 17th-century casona (mansion), the hotel shares its property with a select group of Mexican businesses,...
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Mexico City, CDMX, Mexico
My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening,...
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Mexico City, CDMX, Mexico
I adjust my seat post and swing my leg over my cruiser bicycle on a side street in the Centro district, looking nervously at the cars and taxis clogging the lane to my left. “I know it might seem a little scary riding a bicycle in downtown Mexico...
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Plaza Garibaldi s/n, Cuauhtémoc, Centro, 06010 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Come for the mariachis, stay for the tequila. Plaza Garibaldi has long been famous for its roaming musicians for hire and cantina scene, and now sports a new and worthy feature: El Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal, a.k.a. MUTEM. The Museum of Tequila...
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Mexico City, CDMX, Mexico
Name:Alfonsina Peñaloza
Age: 31
Neighborhood: San Ángel, Mexico City, Mexico
Occupation: Alfonsina works for Ethos, a nonprofit that conducts research and advises governments and other organizations on economic, gender equality, and human rights...