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2015

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00184 Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
No matter how many postcards you've seen of Rome's iconic Colosseum, you just don't get it until you pass beneath its crumbling arches. Built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E., the huge amphitheater held 50,000 spectators and marked its...
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Piazza Venezia, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
The Monument of Victor Emmanuel II in Rome, nicknamed the Wedding Cake (and, alternately, the Typewriter) for its distinctive boxy shape, offers some of the most stunning panoramic views to be had of the Eternal City, in every direction. There is...
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Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Fontana di Trevi is, as it should be, one of the most visited landmarks in Rome. Seeing it is worth the blind stumble through narrow stone streets and alleyways. But do so at night (and in the rain, if possible) to be rewarded with...
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Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
This 1st-century wonder will take your breath away. Not only is it one of the city's most ancient sites, it's been in continuous use for centuries. Originally built as a private temple, today it is a Catholic church and the resting place of...
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Via Borgognona, 11, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
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I often take out-of-town guests here for lunch because it feels—and is—so authentic. Whenever I go in, I have ‘my’ table, as do all the other Roman regulars. One of the restaurant’s specialties is the Francovich soup, which is a delicious Tuscan...
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Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 2, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Ciampini has all the required three Ps (that's a thing, right?): People-watching, prime piazza location, and perfect cappuccini to make it the most coveted caffè bar in Rome. From 8 a.m. to after dark, Rome's best-dressed flock to Piazza...
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When it comes to ice cream, there is still only one place in Rome. It has been the best since 1900. I love Giolitti not only for the great gelato, but also because it hasn’t changed since I was a little girl. 39/06-699-1243. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
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Here is one of Rome’s best restaurants: Al Moro is very traditional and is well known for the quality of its seasonal ingredients, including porcini mushrooms, wild strawberries, artichokes, and asparagus. 39/06-678-3495. By Pepi Marchetti...
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Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Like all outdoor markets in Rome, Campo de' Fiori is a bustling social center where locals push past throngs of tourists to complete their errands. Every morning you can find nonni shopping for produce with their grandchildren, feisty butchers...
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Via Claudia, 15, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
The Paolo Parisi egg has become an Italian status symbol. The perfect whites look like those of any other egg, but the Day-Glo orange yolks have an incredible creamy texture and sweet almond flavor that fetch nearly $2 per egg. The extraordinary...
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Via dei Santi Quattro, 24, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
This busy pizzeria in the Celio, the neighborhood adjacent to the Colosseum, is decked out in kitschy Roman decor. The dining room resembles a piazza of sorts, surrounded by old school storefronts anchored to the walls. Six nights a week, Li Rioni...
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Piazza della Repubblica, 00185 Roma RM, Italy
It was very special to be able to observe this magnificent Basilica on its most reverent day. I highly recommend this as one of your must see visits. It might be lost in the list of sights to see but locals will be first to point out its beauty
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Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy
This photo was taken my first night in Roma. It is an amazing building to see.....old but beautiful. There are many Basilicas in Rome but this is a must see. I went inside the next day and the interior is just as impressive!
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Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy
Encompassing early 200 acres of rolling parkland, Villa Borghese is Rome's verdant heart and everyone's favorite place for an afternoon walk. The vast gardens are criss-crossed with picturesque paths, where visitors can meander past ancient...
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Via Ostiense, 106, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
Tired of the crowds? Go to the Centrale Montemartini in Ostiense. No lines. In fact, no other people. At all. Usually I am the only one there. Wander the ancient Roman sculptures and extraordinary mosaic floor set in the former power plant;...
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Via del Caravita, 8a, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
While a lot of people would go see the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome, fewer travelers venture out to this grand church at the Piazza di San Ignacio near the Pantheon, which features an almost equally beautiful painted ceiling done by Andrea...
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Riomaggiore SP, Italy
Hiking the Cinque Terre is an extraordinary way to explore the Ligurian Coast. Five villages connected only by hiking trail and rail with breathtaking coastal views and colorfully quaint villages. The trails can be challenging at times and it is...
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Via G. Guidoni, 42, 19018 Vernazza SP, Italy
Any meal served in an eleventh century castle overlooking the sea has to be good. But dinner at Belforte in Vernazza (Cinque Terre) is an experience to be rivaled by few others. Daniele can tell you about the most recent catch, the housemade...
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Via Renato Birolli, 114, 19017 Manarola SP, Italy
Like so many touristy places, we found the food in Cinque Terre restaurants to be so-so, with one exception: the focaccia - and pizza! - from La Cambusa in Manarola. After sitting down with our selections, several locals came in to pick up their...
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Via Guidoni, 56, 19018 Vernazza SP, Italy
I was hungry and wanted to see the sunset. As a solo traveler, getting to do both -- eat well at a table with a view -- was tough. They wanted to save the best for duos. So after being given a lame table at a chic-chic (read: super expensive) spot...
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Via Roma, 54, 19016 Monterosso al Mare SP, Italy
Having just spent the better part of 12 days eating nothing but focaccia, pasta, more focaccia and more pasta in Tuscany, this heaping helping of "frutti di mare" for my first meal in Cinque Terre was absolute heaven. With the exception of a small...
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19017 Riomaggiore SP, Italy
Sometimes it's nice to get off the beaten path. You can take the normal pathways around Cinque Terre (and they are spectacular in their own right) but you can also veer a bit off the normal journey and take the 'high road' to catch a glimpse of...
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Parco nazionale delle Cinque Terre, 19016 Monterosso al Mare SP, Italy
Climbing the Sentiero Azzurro (or the Blue Path, given the gorgeous ocean views you get from almost every bend) you traipse by countless terraced vineyards producing the Vermentino and Sciacchetrà that this region is so famous for. And keep your...
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Via Renato Birolli, 103, 19017 Manarola, Riomaggiore SP, Italy
While Vernazza and Monteroso were nearly devastated by the floods and mudslides of October 2011, Manarola luckily fared much better. Only now nearly back to normal, the villages welcome visitors to enjoy the bounty of her waters --- especially...
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Marché de la Condamine, Place d'Armes, 98000 Monaco
Open daily, even on Sundays, the Condamine market is a combination covered and outdoor market where residents come to stock up their larders with regional specialties, local produce, and fish directly from the sea below. Grab a coffee at one of...
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98015 Monaco-Ville, Monaco
At five minutes before noon every day, the uniformed Carabiniers du Prince perform a ceremonial changing of the guard in front of Monaco's palace. Though the royal family still lives in the palace, much of the year there...
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1, Restaurant, +, 93505130, Quai Louis II, 98000, Monaco
Bugattis and Bentleys filling the streets make it hard to believe you can visit Monaco on a budget, but this is the place where dreams really do come true. Start your morning by the Yacht Club, with breakfast at the Société Nautique de Monaco,...
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Avenue Saint-Martin, 98000 Monaco
In 1881 professor Milne Edwards led a historic expedition to the depths of the Gascogne Sea. Reports of his adventures inspired Prince Albert I to build a centre dedicated to marine biology. His Musée Océanographique de Monaco opened in 1910 and...
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Aix-en-Provence, France
It would be hard to do better in Provence than in a city that is named after the region, right? Totally right. Aix-en-Provence is the region's most delightful, easily accessible and interesting mid-sized city, and its markets are not to be missed....
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57 Avenue de la Vallée des Baux, 13520 Paradou, France
In a quiet little village south of St Remy de Provence you will find this gem of a bistrot. It's a fixed price menu with just a few options but all oh so delicious. A red wine bottle is open and waiting for you at the table as you sit down. It's a...
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3 Boulevard Victor Hugo, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France
While on a trip to the wonderful Provence region of France, one of the best days was the day we visited Saint-Remy. It is beautiful in itself, but one of the true gems of the area is Joel Durand's chocolate shop. We had the honor of a private...
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13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France
A sundial in the medieval center of St.-Rémy-de-Provence...Its inscription distills the allure of the South of France: "It is always time to do nothing." Relax. Find a hammock, sip a pastis, inhale the lavender-scented air...
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13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France
The landscape of Provence is a piece of art. It's no wonder that Vincent Van Gough was inspired to create over 150 paintings in Saint Remy in his final months. During a bike trip through Provence with VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations, I...
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13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France
Vincent van Gogh was a self-admitted patient at the Saint-Paul asylum in Saint-Rémy from May 1889 until May 1890. During much of his time there he was confined to the grounds of the asylum, and his works are great studies of the landscape and...
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2 Montée des Moulins, 84000 Avignon, France
Escape the hot, rabbit-warren of medieval streets in Avignon for the cool and shady oasis of Rocher des Doms. The park is a popular spot for families to relax and offers stunning views over the town of Avignon. It is also an easy access point for...
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Boulevard de la Ligne, 84000 Avignon, France
We spent the majority of our time in Avignon marveling at Place du Palais, a UNESCO World Heritage Site complex made up of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms d’Avignon, the Palais des Papes (Pope’s Palace), and Pont Saint Bénézet. These are the...
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18 Place Pie, 84000 Avignon, France
Given the fact that it's located in Square Pie in the heart of the walled city, and given the fact that there's a Vertical Garden growing on its façade, a visit to Les Halles simply can’t be missed. Construction of this market was completed in...
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Pont d'Avignon, Boulevard de la Ligne, 84000 Avignon, France
Both our kids learnt this song in their Montessori class - well - one of their teacher's was French. A very cute song and ever since we became familiar with it we were itching to visit the bridge in Avignon. During our trip to Provence it was the...
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Arles, France
Arles is a super quaint French town on the south eastern coast of France that is a "must see" if you're looking to travel to France and want to feel like you're "in France." Arles is one of the photogenic places that probably looks a lot like it...
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Arles, France
The Archeological Museum in Arles, is a wonderful place for families to learn about the ancient Roman city. While roaming around in the town, you will see the ruins of the amphitheater and the colosseum. In the museum you'll see models showing how...
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6 Place de la République, 13200 Arles, France
The cathedral and cloister of the Église St. Trophime in Arles are truly a must for anyone who appreciates art history and sacred spaces. The buildings were classified a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981, a project on the Worlds Monument Fund,...
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Avenue des Alyscamps, 13200 Arles, France
The Alyscamps is home to one of the most famous sites of necropolises of the ancient world. Because Roman cities traditionally forbade burials within city limits, it was traditional for the roads immediately outside a city to be lined with tombs...
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8 Rue du Palais de Justice, 69005 Lyon, France
My sister and I went exploring the city center in Lyon and came across a bakery we knew we had to eat at. I don't think there was a boulangerie we didn't go into while in France. This one we realized specialized in brioche praline - which we...
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156 Rue de Créqui, 69003 Lyon, France
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This odd-looking blimp is actually a quenelle de brochet, one of the quintessential foods of Lyon. They're big dumplings made out of pike fish, covered in Sauce Nantua, a classic French sauce made with crayfish. Daniel et Denise, owned by an...
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Beaune is full of antique stores that you can spend hours in. I found these antique apothecary containers at Antiquites Dussort - quite old and quite unique. The one I bought looks great on the fireplace mantle.
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9-11 Avenue de la République, 21200 Beaune, France
While his girlfriend seems uncertain about her tasting, the young gentleman is ready to give it a try. We've stayed three times at a charming chambre d'hote in Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, a few kilometers from Beaune. Luckily, each visit has...
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21200 Beaune, France
Tucked away on a side street in Beaune, you will find the enchanting Caves Madeleine. It is a wonderful little gem that locals frequent because of its incredible food and wine selection. Seating is communal, which instantly gives an air of...
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Rue de l'Hôtel Dieu, 21200 Beaune, France
In three previous trips to Burgundy we had not taken the time to visit the Hospices de Beaune, despite being in town each time. In May we corrected the error and were very pleased to learn the history and take in the beauty of this unique hospital...
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10 Rue Bannelier, 21000 Dijon, France
I recently learned that the Grey Poupon Dijon Mustard we have here in the US is actually produced from mustard seed grown in Canada. So while in Dijon, France I suggest you spend a morning (or two) walking your way through the Dijon Covered Food...
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Cour de la Gare, 21000 Dijon, France
On the last leg of a trip in May 2013, we took the TGV from Dijon to Paris, on the way passing beautiful fields of mustard in bloom. We'd seen fields like this from the air on the way to Prague, in Poland and into Lyon, but didn't know what they...
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21000 Dijon, France
The Musée des Beaux-Arts is located in the centre of the ancient town of Dijon, in what used to be the palace of the Valois Dukes of Burgundy. The architecture is stunning, with its high mansard roof and neo-classical trimmings, it was created...
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21000 Dijon, France
What an amazing impression the gargoyles of Notre Dame in Dijon make, leering down at you with grotesque stone faces. Added to the facade of this medieval church in the 19th century, the gargoyles serve no other function than to grimace and gape,...
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Place Notre Dame, 21000 Dijon, France
Dijon is a wonderful France city in the Burgundy region. In fact - it was once the seat of power for the Dukes of Burgundy in the 15th century. There are so many historic buildings through out the city and my favorite was the Church of Notre-Dame...
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77300 Fontainebleau, France
A quick 40-minute train ride from the Gare de Lyon in central Paris takes you to one of the best day trips out of the city: a forest preserve surrounding a palace that dates back nine centuries. The Forêt de Fontainebleau offers a hundred square...
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22 Rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, France
After glowing stints at Fauchon and Le Bon Marché, pastry chef and author Sébastien Gaudard opened his own pâtisserie on rue des Martyrs, just south of Pigalle, 9 months ago; the speed of his ascent into the annals of traditional pastry-making...
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5 Rue de la Banque, 75002 Paris, France
Shopping passages were built in the 19th century to give Parisians protection from muddy streets and horse-drawn vehicles. Galerie Vivienne is a beautiful restored 19th-century passage with entrances at the Rue des Petits-Champs, Rue de la...
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Place Charles de Gaulle, 75008 Paris, France
Step one: take the Paris metro to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. Step two: walk towards the large arch in front of you. That's about all the directions you need for the Arc de Triomphe, although if you just look at it from ground level you're missing...
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1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris, France
In the 14th district of Paris are the Catacombs, also known as the underground ossuary (or l'Ossuaire Municipal) where 6 million skeletons are stacked in an orderly fashion and date back several centuries ago. This was done because Paris...
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6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris, France
For a first-time visitor to Notre Dame, investing in the audio guide is essential to immerse in and understand this overwhelmingly significant Paris icon. There's a lot to see and absorb—history, architecture, artifacts,...
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17 Rue Montorgueil, 75001 Paris, France
So, you think you know Paris? There are hundreds of memorable streets and boulevards in the City of Lights. But, for my money, Rue Montorgueil is the best. It is compact, only three blocks long, with a metro stop at each end. In between, you have...
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29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004 Paris, France
Cool down on a hot summer's day in Paris with an ice cream from Berthillon on, Paris' most famous ice cream shop. Enjoy it sitting on the banks of the Seine - Berthillon is on Ile Saint-Louis, so you can easily find a place to sit with lovely...
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53 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris, France
If you've ever walked along the banks of the river Seine, you've probably seen long green boxes and their vendors plying souvenirs, postcards and a variety of other knick-knacks. But did you know that these Bouquinistes - all 240+ of them - are...
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Hold forth with the French about coffee and you'll quickly understand its purpose. It's not meant to be consumed leisurely but rather serves to clean the palate after a hearty meal. They think of it as a digestif which they tend to down in one...
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35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018 Paris, France
Even though Paris is one of the most visited cities in Europe, it is still possible to feel like you have the place to yourself...that is if you don't mind setting an alarm. Want beautiful tourist free photos of Paris sites like Sacre Coeur - then...
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Place des Vosges, Paris, France
This beautiful square is one the city's oldest; set in Le Marais, it's surrounded by grand houses and an arched walkway lined with galleries and quaint cafés. At Number 6, you'll find the former home of Victor Hugo, author of "The Hunchback of...
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Paris-8E-Arrondissement, 16 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris-8E-Arrondissement, France
Even after six years in Paris, I still find myself overwhelmed by the heaps of flaky pastries and dainty, multi-layer desserts that line bakery windows. These local joints on each block reel in passersby with the potent scent of butter and...
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37 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, France
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The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the...
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75006 Paris, France
On sunny days, Parisians head for the Luxembourg Garden, built by Marie de' Medici in 1611 and modeled after the Boboli Gardens in her native Florence. In addition to the magnificent Medici Fountain, there are more than 100 statues arranged around...
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80 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
La Cuisine Paris is located in the 4th arrondissement, just a block from the Hotel de Ville, and a short walk from the Notre Dame. When you step inside their darling shop, you’re greeted by their friendly, English-speaking staff in a simple, but...
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97 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 Paris, France
A near-daily ritual was a visit to this nearby Marais fromagerie, featuring an outstanding selection of cheeses and knowledgeable help. In the U.S., one often sees Brie, Camembert, Boursin, and Roquefort, but most of the 350-400 kinds of French...
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8 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris, France
Sainte Chapelle is a true Gothic masterpiece located on Île de la Cité. Sainte Chapelle was founded by King Louis IX as a chapel for the royal palace. Sainte Chapelle houses a small chapel downstairs that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The...
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66 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
Before wandering around Paris for two days, I asked my French friend Nadine, "where do I eat?" She directed me to Cafe Louis Phillipe for a lovely French lunch. The beautiful blue cheese, walnut, and endive salad arrived first, followed by a roast...
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44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
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We had only a few nights in Paris, and on the last, we followed Jim Mayer's lead, which he culled from a guidebook that called Restaurant Chez Astier's cheese plate the best in the city. Dinner was great; very traditional. And I remember the wines...
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116 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris, France
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Paris wine shops routinely host free tastings, often led by the growers who make the wine. Paris by Mouth publishes a calendar of tastings, but two shops can be depended upon to have something interesting on the weekends: Les Caves Augé and La...
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Sorbonne, Paris, France
The Seine River runs through the city of Paris and is one of the great historic rivers in Europe. It is and always been Paris' heart. I was staying on the Left Bank in the 6th arrondissement. One morning after my breakfast croissant and bowl of...
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3 Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 75014 Paris, France
Step off the beaten path that leads to Jim Morrison’s grave at Père Lachaise and head instead to the lesser-known, yet extraordinary Montparnasse Cemetery. Locals bring metro tickets to leave on Serge Gainsbourg’s grave in...
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8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
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Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats.

1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilane are made...

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47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France
The Paris café scene has always been compelling, but the actual café (coffee) is often forgettable. That's all changing, thanks to places like Coutume, Kookaboora and Telescope, where obsessive (and often mustachioed) baristas are redefining the...
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38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
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La Grande Épicerie is the food emporium for the Bon Marché department store. A definite spot to buy gourmet food for a picnic or for gifts to take home. It sells over 30,000 gourmet products including groceries, fresh produce, fish, wines and...
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93 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
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Located in the Richelieu wing, Le Café Marly place to lunch and lounge on the terrace looking directly onto IM Pei pyramid in the Louvre courtyard. The food is a little overpriced for what it serves, but is good for classic French cuisine. You...
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129 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
With the precipitous rise of gourmet street food and market-fresh neo-bistrots, it's not surprising that Boris Leclercq's eponymous steak joint 'Chez Boris' opened near the Champs-Elysées last year with little fanfare. The conceit of this...
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54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, France
You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices, but at Semilla, you're in for both a great meal and a great deal. The international influence is strong...
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62 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
L'Autre Café is situated in a cozy corner of the 11th arrondissement, just a few steps away from the Parmentier metro. It's open 7 days a week and I often found myself planning my days to end in this area so I could stop in and linger for a bit...
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1er étage, Tour Eiffel, Champ de Mars, 75007 Paris, France
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There is a relatively unknown restaurant on the first platform of the Eiffel Tower. This used to be a private conference room area closed to the public. But it's was re-done into a restaurant called 58 Eiffel Tower. It sits at 58 meters above the...
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34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, France
Situated a block from the Canal St.-Martin in the 10th arrondissement, Du Pain et des Idées is your favorite corner bakery—only better. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, was named best boulanger in Paris in 2008, and for good reason....
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Hôtel Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
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Among the reasons to take afternoon tea at Le Dalí, the Philippe Starck–designed restaurant in Le Meurice hotel, the duo of éclairs ranks high. The creator of the exquisite chocolate and strawberry-rhubarb interpretations is 28-year-old Cédric...
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15 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, France
Being both a movie buff and a francophile, I definitely watched Amélie both immediately before and immediately after visiting Paris. That being said, a mandatory stop on my Paris checklist was Café des 2 Moulins, the café Amélie's character works...
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226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
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If you have a sweet tooth or if you are looking for the best chocolate milk or mont blanc cake in Paris, look no further. Angelina Patisserie is the place you should head to. Located just across Jardin de Rivoli, Angelina doubles as Patisserie and...
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75006 Paris, France
Located in the 6th arrondissement, the Jardin du Luxembourg is the second largest park in Paris. It is teeming with blooming flower gardens, flowing fountains, historical buildings, a few smoking teenagers and yes, enormous sculptures of horses.
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7 Rue Drevet, 75018 Paris, France
Within the 18th arrondissement in Paris France, high atop the city, resides the wonderfully beautiful, hilly neighborhood of Montmartre. This diverse and eclectic section of the city can be a bit busy with tourists, but the views of Paris and the...
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82 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018 Paris, France
In 1899, the cabaret, Moulin Rouge (red mill) opened in Paris. Moulin Rouge is near Montmartre. The cabaret is located in the Pigalle district and you can see the famous red windmill on the cabaret roof. This was the birthplace of the can-can...
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75001 Paris, France
Stand on the the quais beneath the Pont Neuf bridge—the city's oldest crossing of the Seine—and look up. Staring down at you are mascarons, stone faces that resemble gargoyles, but without bodies. No two of these grotesque visages are the same....
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23 Rue Jean Larrive, 69003 Lyon, France
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Best frites (aka French fries) EVER. They were hand-cut by the 87-year old owner, Madame Giraud. I wrote about her in my AFAR article about Lyon's bouchons. These frites were pure heaven paired with Madame's steak with brown butter. (Yes, I did...
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Aix-en-Provence, France
So much fun picking up local fruits & vegetables from the farmer's market at Place Richelme.
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Arles, France
Looking down the rooftops of Arles from the Arles Amphitheatre.
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2 Rue Claude Ramey, 21000 Dijon, France
If the ironwork throughout the Les Halles covered market in Dijon, France, reminds you of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, there is good reason. Gustave Eiffel, a native son of Dijon, designed the market in the 19th century. One of France’s largest and...