Prague’s Food Scene

Farmers’ markets didn’t catch on in Prague until 2010, but now nearly every neighborhood has a place to buy fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, and fish. Dejvice Farmers' Market is one of the biggest markets, with roughly 60 stalls, and held every Saturday near the Dejvicka metro station. But the market with the most pleasant location is Naplavka along the Vltava River. Offering smoked fish, Hungarian fish soup, bread, and more, it’s a great way to spend a Saturday morning or early afternoon.

Prague is home to many great cafés that send visitors spinning back in time. One of the most beautiful is Grand Café Orient. From the layout to its bar, to its lamps and lanterns, this centrally-located coffee house is said to be the only cafe in the world designed in the Cubist style. But along with Prague's historic cafes, the city is now home to a myriad number of speciality coffee cafes. One that kick-started the scene is the always buzzing Muj Salek Kavy, located in the city's foodie hub, Karlin.

Prague’s dining scene has really blossomed in the last ten years or so, to the point where the city now boasts three Michelin-starred restaurants. In 2012, the first degustation restaurant in the Czech Republic, La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise, was awarded a star. This is the place to find centuries-old Czech recipes rendered anew with contemporary flair.

There was a time when you would have received stares for trying to order vegetarian food in Prague. While it’s hardly a vegetarian stronghold, the city has many more options today, and they’re growing all the time. One of the best restaurants is the aptly named Lehka Hlava, which combines a whimsical interior with an imaginative menu of tacos, pastas, quinoa dishes, and fresh juices.

If mass-produced Czech beers aren’t your thing, you’ll be happy to know that Prague has a very active microbrewery scene. One of the best known (and hence very touristy) spots is U Fleku, which has been brewing beer for more than five centuries; it serves homey Czech fare and regularly hosts musicians, including a daily accordion player. Guests come from afar to try their unique dark lager.

Wine has carved out at a place for itself in Prague alongside beer. Although it is the Czech Republic's more southern Moravian region that is most known for its wine, Bohemia has its share as well. One of the most interesting spots in the city is Veltlin wine bar in the Karlin district. Their offering of natural wines all come from the former Austro-Hungarian empire, which boasted a rich diversity of blends.

A visit to Prague wouldn’t be complete without at least one traditional meal. For all its cosmopolitan charm, the city still has plenty of places to order goulash, knedliky (dumplings), pickled sausages, and the like. U Fleků offers hearty Czech food and beers in its historic eight halls and beer garden. Lokal does the same, but with fresh local ingredients and modern twists.

The city fell in love with cocktail culture several years ago and now boasts a range of excellent bars that serve classy concoctions to tourists and locals. Parlour, a speakeasy style bar is among the most popular. Just off Wencelas Square, it's hard to find (there is no sign), but it's well worth the effort to find it. These self-proclaimed cocktail artists will mix up a customized concoction that will hit the spot every time, and serve it in a vintage cocktail glass.