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14 Times Travel Went Really, Really Wrong for AFAR Staffers

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

Connect with the great outdoors without having to rough it out.

Mumbai’s street snacks are all about fresh ingredients assembled on the spot.

The history behind Delhi’s Nizamuddin Basti neighborhood.

Passionate Mexico City foodies are rediscovering and reviving Mexico’s rural culinary delights.

A journey into Morocco’s Berber territory, where tradition and modern life meet.

From traditional Moroccan dishes like pigeon pastilla to a chateaubriand steak accompanied by one of the area’s sturdy-yet-subtle red wines, dining in Marrakech means an intoxicating mélange of North African flavors and European-inspired cuisine. Whether you’re on a day tour of tastes around the Red City or you’re spending a weekend in town, you’ll eat in central courtyards, high-end hotels, on balconies, and, if it’s a burger you’re after, the converted schoolhouse of Cafe Clock. One of the flavor threads through all of it: Morocco’s mint tea.

Still known to locals as the Ambassador, the hotel is a listed heritage site built in 1945 by colonial architect Walter Sykes George in a fusion of British and Art Deco styles. But its purchase and refurbishment by the Taj Hotels group ensures its present-day comforts, namely pet-friendly rooms with high ceilings, reliable WiFi, and 24-hour room service. While the early clientele included Indian royals, today the building attracts business and leisure travelers looking for a terrific value for their money and a convenient launchpad from which to experience modern New Delhi—it’s next door to one of the city’s most upscale shopping malls. Shop till you drop, then return to the hotel for international favorites like burgers, pasta, and steaks, as well as Indian tandoori specialties at Yellow Brick Road restaurant.

Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, was commissioned by Shah Jahan, the same emperor who built the iconic Taj Mahal for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Completed in 1656, the courtyard of Jama Masjid can accommodate 25,000 devotees. Visitors must comply with a dress code; traditional robes can be rented at the northern gate. The mosque is located in Old Delhi near other notable sites, including the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk market, so schedule extra time to explore the area. Note: No visitors are allowed during prayer hours.

This astonishing human-powered Laundromat near Mahalaxmi Station is where scores of dhobis (laundrymen) bring dirty clothes from homes and hotels from all over the city each morning to clean them by hand in big open-air troughs. It’s an incredible sight—hundreds of thousands of items of apparel are said to pass through here each day—and what’s even more incredible is that each shirt, vest and sock finds its way back to its rightful owner, clean and folded, later that day.

Formerly the residence of the Maharajah of Jaipur, and now one of Jaipur’s most elegant luxury hotels, the 19th-century Rambagh Palace has had a front-row seat to history—and has hosted a long list of royals, dignitaries, and celebrities along the way. As an homage to those regal roots, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant spotlights the cuisine of four of India’s former princely states: Rajasthan, Awadh, Punjab, and Hyderabad. In what used to be the palace’s banquet hall—still dripping with gilded mirrors and Italian frescos—enjoy dishes like laal maas (a Rajasthani spicy lamb curry), chicken cooked with raw mango and saffron, skillet-grilled lobster, and apricot-stuffed cheese dumplings simmered in tomato gravy. Cap off the night with a drink in the nearby Polo Bar, which serves fine spirits and cocktails inspired by the royal equestrian sport.

Hyde Park is happening. Catering to the University of Chicago crowd and its visiting dignitaries, the five-year-old Sophy takes inspiration from hometown literary and musical heroes, whose artworks ornament the walls in the popular and always convivial Mesler restaurant. Taking the title of the first boutique hotel on Chicago’s South Side when it opened in 2018, the property occupies a prime spot on 53rd Street—a vibrant commercial hub lined with shops and restaurants owned and frequented by a diverse population that range from academics to local politicians to the city’s cultural influencers. Former UofC professor Barack Obama’s home (and his under-construction presidential library) are nearby.

Set on pristinely manicured grounds, the Trident Hotel offers a modern alternative to the traditional properties found throughout Jaipur. One of its biggest selling points is its prime location—across from the stunning Jal Mahal and just a short drive from the majestic Amber Fort—but rooms offer plenty to love, from the Rajasthani archways and rich upholstery to the beautiful views across the property’s expansive lawns. In addition to two restaurants and a handful of event spaces, the Trident offers a sleek fitness center, luxurious spa, and quiet courtyard with a swimming pool, not to mention a kids’ club with activities like arts and crafts and cooking classes.