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Previously the home of Peruvian sculptor Victor Delfin, who still keeps a studio and gallery on-site, Second Home Peru is the guesthouse everyone would want to know about (but doesn’t). The beautifully maintained Tudor mansion is one of the first boutique hotels to open in Lima, though being hidden away in a residential section of the Barranco arts district, few realize it is there. Its neighborhood location is ideal—a few blocks from the lively plaza and from a cobblestone walkway down to the beach, the Bajada de los Baños, that is lined with restaurants. The highlight, however, is the ocean view, as the house is set near the edge of Lima’s coastal cliffs, and several rooms have balconies that look right over the water. The vistas are better from here than from the often-gray skies of the more posh hotels in Miraflores up the coast, and guests can enjoy them from the small outdoor pool, gardens, and shared terraces as well. The eclectic décor includes wood floors, Louis XV–style claw-footed bathtubs, and a small contemporary art collection that lines the halls and stairways. The family-run property isn’t flashy or ultra modern by any means, though flat-screen TVs and Wi-Fi come standard.

A city tour of Lima isn’t complete without visiting the catacombs of the Monastery of San Francisco. The basement of the working monastery reveals the bones of wealthy Limeños who believed they would be the last to rest in their expensive plots. The tour reveals what actually happened to their remains. Since the catacombs couldn’t expand and affluent Catholics, unfortunately, kept dying, bodies were stacked to decompose down to the bones, and now the larger bones (femurs, forearms, and skulls) are arranged artistically in a circular pattern to make them more aesthetically pleasing to visitors. The site is interesting from both a historical and modern sociological, ethical, and religious standpoint.

Every day at noon at the Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza Mayor), trumpets blare, drums pound, and cymbals crash as the guard changes outside the presidential palace. Enjoy the Spanish fanfare like a local: from a plaza bench with an ice cream cone. The Plaza is also the site of festivals, concerts, and the much-loved annual National Pisco Day when the fountain spouts free high-proof grape brandy for all.

The 25-story curved glass tower of the JW Marriott, opened in 2000 during a construction boom, may be the best-located hotel in Peru’s capital. Aside from its location across the street from Parque Salazar and the cliffside shopping and entertainment complex Larcomar (one of Lima’s biggest attractions), the hotel has sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean (at least when the thick, gray sea mist known as la garua isn’t lingering). From the air, the JW Marriott is one of the city’s most recognizable buildings. It was one of the first large structures to be erected here, though many others have since joined it. Beside the hotel is the almost identical 24-story Parque Mar tower, which connects to the hotel at the base and features a small mall and a popular casino.


Despite the onslaught of other international chains in the city in recent years, the JW Marriott maintains a special foothold here and frequently brings in locals for weekend brunches. For travelers coming for just a day before hightailing it out to Cuzco, it serves as a great base for shopping or indulging in some of the city’s best restaurants, all of which can be found within a five-minute walk.

Galeria Delbarrio is an extraordinary place to see Peruvian pop art. The gallery mixes the old and new, modern and traditional, in a very fun way. They have paintings, comics and an extensive collection of rustic-pop furniture spread throughout a 1840’s house. Just the house itself would be worth the visit. It has the traditional architecture from the time Chorillos was a beach resort town where the rich families from Lima spent their summers. The restoration preserved the domes, glasswork and original ceilings, adding a splash of color that brought the place to life. After the visit, take a walk around the neighborhood and enjoy its tranquil old town atmosphere. Make sure you finish by the boardwalk, where you’ll be wowed by one of the best views of Lima.

After the great national and international success of the Ameal wines, a new project was born in Quinta do Ameal, the brand new Ameal Wine & Tourism Terroir. The renovation of several old houses of the property was completed in May 2014. These houses and suites are fully equipped and decorated so guests can enjoy of all comfort without leaving the Quinta. Quinta do Ameal has a total of 30 hectares within its granite walls where a little less than half, 12 hectares, is planted with a totally organic vineyard that produces exceptional grapes for the production of wine: The Ameal “Clássico ", Ameal “Escolha”, Ameal “Sparkling” and “Special Harvest”. The remaining area consists of a fantastic and unique forest of 8 hectares consisting of a huge variety of trees including stone pines and oaks aged more than 200 year’s old. Beautiful gardens and over 800 meters besides the river Lima complete this magnificent set.

Barranco, one of the city’s most beautiful neighborhoods, awash in character, is known for an artsy vibe and gorgeous colonial buildings. Cross the Puente de los Suspiros (Spanish for “Bridge of Sighs”) and follow the Bajada de los Baños to the seaside. Explore the side streets and duck into cute cafés and art venues, including the Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC). The gallery-shop Dédalo, in particular, is ideal for combining coffee, snacking, shopping, and art viewing. Visiting another Barranco landmark, the belle epoque Hotel B, provides a quick trip back to a time of elegant architecture. Splurge for a smart cocktail on the rooftop bar to linger a little longer.

A few years back, when Lima’s Central Restaurante was closed because of zoning issues, Peru‘s celebrity chef, Gastón Acurio, was one of many who petitioned for it to be reopened. I knew that meant the young chef at Central, Virgilio Martinez, must be doing something truly special. Virgilio’s restaurant is located in Lima’s hip Barranco neighborhood. I stopped in solo one afternoon for lunch and was dazzled by the dishes his servers put in front of me: charred purple corn with scented octopus, lentils, yuzu, and bok choy; “mask of the suckling pig” (or pig face) with tart green apple, baby tomatoes, and galangal; and suckling goat with chickpeas, goat cheese, and lemon verbena. Each course was plated like a work of art and was a beautiful riddle on the palette. My enthusiasm for my food earned me a tour of the open kitchen and the rooftop garden, where servers pluck flowers or clip herbs for dishes like the citrus gelée with edible flowers (pictured above). Chef also gave me a tour of his incredible chocolate cellar, where he shows off his favorite chocolate bars from around the world.

Centuries-old catacombs decorated with human bones pepper the crypts at this Franciscan monastery dating to 1774. Decked out in impressive Spanish Baroque architecture, the canary-yellow church and monastery also house a remarkable library with some 25,000 antique texts (some predating the Spanish Conquest) and are flush with romantic courtyards and cloisters. Don’t forget to look up: A magnificent Moorish-style cupola, carved of Nicaraguan cedar in 1625, oversees the main staircase.

The Larco Museum is the starting point of your visit to Peru. It has the largest collection of pre-Columbian pieces in the Americas and tells the history of Peru without being tiresome. That’s a feat in itself, because we’re talking about 10.000 years of history! Everything you’ll see in Lima and around the country will make sense after this visit. The quality and beauty of the pieces are amazing, showing all the complexity of the local cultures. It’s a beautiful museum, very well curated, the exhibits are simple and to the point and everything is explained in displays and videos. The museum offers also a super interesting guided visit for families with children. Other famous part of this museum is two private rooms dedicated to erotic pieces, showing the connection between erotic and fertility.

Not many know that Matsuei was the first restaurant with the great Nobu of international sushi fame at the helm. Back when he had both a first and last name, he met a man while working in a sushi bar in Japan who offered to stake his solo business venture if he set up shop in Peru. And thanks to a large Japanese community in Lima, Matsuei was a success. On the menu you’ll find the original cream cheese, tempura, mango, and fusion rolls now loved the world over. But even purists will love the high quality local fish and seafood, especially the creamy sole and to-die-for scallops.

A must-stop on the traditional handicraft circuit, this massive market—stretching four city blocks in Miraflores!—is home to stall after stall of kitschy bric-a-brac, pre-Columbian–style pottery, alpaca everything and an endless array of Andes-inspired arts and crafts. Come and shop around.

Just a few blocks from the hotel, the Surquillo Market bustles with daily life, as locals shop the stands for their fresh groceries. You’ll find stalls selling a bounty of seafood, vegetables, fruits, meat, herbs, and many surprising and unfamiliar indigenous items. For an insider’s look at the market, book the Belmond Miraflores Park’s private Gastronomic Discovery experience, which includes a guided market tour—during which you’ll shop for ingredients—followed by a cooking class back at the hotel and then lunch at Tragaluz. Photo by Carolina Murga Portella/Flickr.

Just a few hours north of Lima, you can visit the sacred city of Caral-Supe, an ancient archaeological site that marks the earliest known instance of complex civilization in the Americas. The ruins at this UNESCO World Heritage Site date to approximately 3,000 B.C., and they are remarkably well-preserved for their age. Caral was almost certainly developed by a highly religious society, as evidenced by the stone monuments and pyramids, the the sunken circular courts, and the remnants of homes that likely belonged to the city’s elite. The physical setting is as striking as the cultural setting: the 626-hectare city is perched on a dry desert terrace overlooking the lush Supe River Valley, framed by mountains, close to the sky. You can hire a tour or take a car to visit this site on a day trip from Lima.

Many visitors to Peru stay in Miraflores, and for good reason: The neighborhood is where you’ll find most of the better hotels, as well as the top restaurants. Get off main streets to stroll the pretty side streets. Down by the ocean, walk the Malecón seawall and visit the Parque del Amor, or Love Park, to watch paragliders soar and bank overhead. The oceanfront is also home to Larcomar, an open-air shopping mall where you can grab a bite or shop for any items you may have forgotten.