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Blue Waters is luxury and elegance made manifest and placed with love amid 17 acres of lush Caribbean gardens in the northwestern corner of Antigua. What could you hope for from a resort like Blue Waters? Spacious, well-appointed bedrooms? Of course. Romantic cliffside dining that supplies stunning views of Caribbean sunsets? A soothing, bougainvillea-wrapped spa stocked with Elemis products—the leading British luxury skincare brand? How about not one, not two, but three secluded beaches at your disposal? Or maybe you’d prefer an immaculate infinity pool that juts practically right out into the Caribbean Sea? If you’ve dreamed it, Blue Waters likely has it... Or better.

I generally have a thing against beaches next to the road. Usually, they’re unfortunate victims to automotive pollution: obnoxious noises, exhaust fumes, and sneaky greases seeping into everything. Darkwood Beach is different. Sure, it’s right on the road on the southwest coast of Antigua, but somehow it escapes the usual woes of roadside sands. Maybe it’s because the road is fairly quiet. Or maybe it’s the persistent onshore trade winds. Or maybe it’s because people care enough to keep the beach clean. Regardless, what you, the traveler, get is a great beach with good swimming and snorkeling, plus a beach bar serving rum and traditional West Indian eats — complete with white plastic chairs in the sand.

By law, every beach in Antigua is public. But at this all-inclusive resort surrounded by 140 acres of undeveloped land on the island’s west coast, guests feel “their” beach belongs almost exclusively to them. The hotel is a 35-minute drive from the airport, and it’s accessed by an unpaved road. Seclusion is a big part of the appeal at this adults-only (except in July and August) hideaway. Its 27 minimalist but spacious cottage suites begin on the beach and are scattered up a hillside that overlooks a picture-perfect bay. All the cottages have outdoor showers, king-size beds with mosquito netting, and at least a partial view of the sea. Expect to see a lot of honeymooners and other romantically inclined couples here, but don’t expect to see much of them, except at meal times, when the foodie-approved mix of European, American, and Caribbean dishes draws out even the most recently married.

Even during Antigua Sailing Week, when English Harbour is chock-a-block with yachts from all over the world, the 28-room Inn at English Harbour remains serenely detached from the chaos. The inn is five minutes by water taxi from the center of things at historic Nelson’s Dockyard, but its tucked-away location on a white-sand beach backed by 19 leafy acres (and a no-kids-under-10 policy) ensures tranquility. Four snug rooms, with marble floors and queen beds, occupy two beachside cabanas, while 25 more generously proportioned suites, all with dark mahogany floors, four-poster king-size canopy beds, and verandas or balconies, are in three wooden buildings sitting farther back among the tropical greenery. Although the Terrace Restaurant and Stone Bar are in the property’s original stone house, the rooms, despite their colonial look, are relatively modern, which means there is a flat-screen TV, an iPod docking station, and Internet access.

No guide to Antigua‘s beaches would be complete without including Long Bay Beach. Unquestionably, it’s one of the island’s finest beaches. The sand is almost blindingly white, like someone poured out a billion sugar shakers. The water is exceptionally clear and calm, especially at the eastern end where even toddlers could safely roam the shoreline without the fear of being barreled over by waves. There’s even good snorkeling near the beach’s reef, which you can actually walk out to! So, why don’t I love Long Bay Beach? Well, it can get a bit busy for my taste. There’s several restaurants including Mama Pastas, resorts including Grand Pineapple, and even a clutch of tiny shops selling local goods. So, if you’re like me, get here as early as possible. Maybe go for a morning run on the impressive sand. Then move on as the masses begin to descend.

Completely off-the-beaten-path and almost totally secluded in the northwest of Antigua is diminutive Bush Beach. I was staying at Blue Waters Resort when I felt the need for a little exercise, so I swung by their water sports shed to check out a kayak. I asked where I should go, to which the guy answered: “You should really stay in the bay here where I can see you... but if you want, you can try going around the bluff. There’s a beach back there no one goes to.” A beach no one goes to? Sign me up! Kayaking around the bluff wasn’t too difficult and the reward? Well, you’re looking at it. An untouched bush-lined beach all to myself! For those not staying at Blue Waters, there’s a slightly hidden path down to the beach from the road... Just don’t tell too many people about it!

Perched high above Antigua in the little hamlet of El Hato, Earth Lodge is a true hidden gem. The view says it all: not one, but three volcanoes (Agua, Fuego and Acatenango) spill out beyond the borders of the city below. Whether you stay in the dorm rooms or in a cozy cabin for two, be sure to rise early so as to witness the world slowly awaken. As luck had it, my breakfast avocado smoothie (the lodge is also an avocado farm) was paired with a morning eruption from Fuego, the most tempestuous of the trio. Breathtaking, all around.

At Pappa Zouk’s rum bar in Antigua the truest path to happiness is through a mix of rum, fresh fish, new friends, and zouk music. First you should know that Pappa Zouk’s is not a restaurant. It’s a rum bar with a dizzying array of rums, rhums, and rons from across the Caribbean and beyond. Yes, lucky rummies can supplement their rum intake with a full menu of authentically prepared fresh fish and other seafood delights, but first-and-foremost this quirky little space is dedicated to drinking and being merry. Secondly, you should know Pappa Zouk is not the mad German owner and bartender. No, that curmudgeon with a penchant for abruptly ending the night’s festivities with a hearty “Get the f**k out!” is Bert Kirchner. He named his place after a deaf, dumb, old man he met on Dominica who would transform from a shuffling ancient to a lithe dancer with pure joy radiating from his gap-toothed smile down to the tips of his barefoot toes any time zouk music was played. He couldn’t hear the music, but he certainly felt it. And his pure happiness in the face of his meager existence was something that always stuck with Bert. Now he spreads happiness his own way — with rum, fresh fish, and zouk playing in the background.

Cape Town already feels like it’s at the tip of the world, but the sensation is magnified at Tintswalo Atlantic, where guests get cozy in suites just a few feet from the ocean. Park in the lot just off famed Chapman’s Peak Drive and take the hotel van, which winds its way down a steep road and drops guests at a collection of semi-detached units. Each is themed after a different island—Zanzibar, Antigua, Sicily, and, oddly enough, Robben (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned). The details are thoughtful, however, from the elaborate, wood-carved headboards to the seashell-encrusted bathroom walls and idyllic paintings. It’s hard to find a setting more romantic and remote. In the unlikely event that you want to venture out, there’s a shuttle that whisks guests to Cape Town, just over 30 minutes away.

If you love textiles as much as I do, you’ll love Guatemala. Everywhere I looked, there were beautiful embroidered as well as woven fabrics. I came home with more than my fair share! If you go to Guatemala and you find yourself in Antigua, consider taking a short trip to the nearby village of Santiago Zamora. There, you will find an enterprising group of village women who have formed a cooperative to sell the traditional Guatemalan handicrafts that they make themselves and these include textiles woven on simple backstrap looms. The village girls contribute as well, making small stuffed animals from the fabrics woven by the older women. The money from the sales of the handicrafts goes directly back into the village, primarily for the welfare and education of the children but also for the overall benefit of the village. You do have to pay a bit more by buying from the women in Santiago Zamora but it does go to a good cause and you will return home not only with a beautiful textile but with some priceless memories as well.

The moment you walk into Buba’s, you feel like family. It’s easy to understand why when you consider that surrounding this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hillside restaurant are Buba’s house, Buba’s sister’s house, and Buba’s Brother’s house across the street. Buba’s own two daughters, nephews, cousins, and other miscellaneous family either host, help in the kitchen, play dj, man the bar, or simply greet visitors from their porches with welcoming, West Indian waves. This homegrown approach extends beyond hospitality to deliciously impact the food as well. Nearly every fruit, vegetable, and herb used in the dishes at Buba’s are all grown on the sloping overgrown gardens surrounding the restaurant. The result is a quintessential island restaurant with no real set menu. Instead, expect the freshest ingredients of the day lovingly coaxed into a collection of authentic Caribbean fare like rice and peas, stew chicken, steamed veggies, salad, and more.

I have to admit, I didn’t want to like this place. I used to come to this location (previously known as Smokey’s) for years to eat great local food and enjoy a laid back vibe... While getting gas, of course. But then the previous West Indian owner moved away to Antigua only to be replaced by a statesider. I thought my days of liming at the solitude gas station with so many other locals and eating great West Indian fare were over. I couldn’t have been more wrong. I’d say the new owner has gone out of his way to make Ziggy’s an active and positive member of the local community, but everything he’s done just has this natural feel to it. Like he’s not even trying, he just IS a part of the community. Local foods like roti, johnny cake, and more still find their home at Ziggy’s. Plus now they’re accompanied by frequent charity events, eating contests, concerts, and even dance competitions... All at an awesome gas station. It may seem odd to suggest stopping by a gas station, but you’d be missing a great new addition to Crucian life without a visit to this libation station.

Just to the north of Galley Bay Resort, you’ll find one of my favorite beaches on the island and maybe even the entire Caribbean: Deep Bay. The ruins of Fort Barrington keep watch over this incredible, crescent-shaped slice of paradise, just adding to the beauty of its turquoise, flat waters. Swimming here is like splashing in the largest, most pristine, natural pool you’ve ever imagined. As an added bonus, there’s a hundred-year-old sunken wreck, a barque from Trinidad named the Andes, out in the middle of the bay. It’s an easy swim from shore and accessible to snorkelers. Beaches really don’t get much better than this... anywhere.

My first night at Galley Bay, I decided to take in their signature dining experience at Ismay’s. This is their top-of-the-line restaurant. Menu items include baked escalope of mahi mahi with olive and pine nut crust parsley; roasted cherry tomatoes, chilled caponata, sweet potato wafers, and balsamic reduction; and gratin of shrimp, crimson grapes, fresh dill, and champagne cream. Certainly impressive names, but perhaps the most impressive is the name of the restaurant itself. You see, when the then unnamed restaurant was being built in 2008, employees overwhelmingly suggested it should be named after one of their own: Ms. Ismay Mason. Ismay had been with Galley Bay for 45 years at that time during which she’d never called in sick and was a steadfast member of the team and community at large. Five years later, when Ismay finally retired, the tribute to her contribution toward the exceptional vibe of Galley Bay continued with the formation of The Ismay’s Foundation which provides for further career training and education within the community. Incidentally, I had the grilled beef mignon and sauté of shrimp, fondant potato, lemon, parsley and white wine emulsion.

High above English Harbour in Nelson’s Dockyard National Park sits the Blockhouse, a brick ruin. On a perch overlooking the southeastern coast of Antigua, the circa-1787 site encompasses an officer’s quarters and those of servants, as well as stables. An ammunition-storage space, a catchment and a cistern have been restored in recent years.