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Follow in this somm’s footsteps.

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This legendary region, steeped in history and wine, is crowned by the world’s largest urban UNESCO World Heritage site. The countryside is home to rolling vineyards, meandering rivers, and vestiges of Gallo-Roman culture, while the city is full of Gothic architecture, notable art museums, and distinctive restaurants. If you want to experience French wine and culture in equal measure, you can’t do much better than Bordeaux.

The tradition of artisanal rum making has become central to island life.

Musicians Aimee Mann, Joe Henry, and Loudon Wainwright III gather in Louisville to indulge in raw oysters, dry martinis, and unscripted conversation.

In the country’s wine region, you can pick grapes, sing songs, and keep ancient harvest traditions alive. It’s so much fun, you can taste it.

Luxury and personalized service are the hallmarks of this InterContinental set in an 18th-century historic building on Bordeaux’s impressive main square. With sumptuous decor that recalls the gracious mansions of yore, plus two Gordon Ramsay restaurants, one of Bordeaux’s loveliest lounges, a rooftop bar with stellar views, and a spa with a pool, sauna, hammam, and fitness room, the hotel really does have it all. Staying here, guests are based in the very heart of Bordeaux, just minutes from the old opera house as well as top dining, nightlife, shopping, and sightseeing—that is, if they can pry themselves away from the hotel.

An easy walk from the cathedral, the Musée d’Aquitaine is devoted to the history of life in Bordeaux, from ancient times through the 20th century. Exhibits illuminate the city’s intimate relationship with the river and sea since the Gallo-Roman period, its role in the slave and wine trades, and its emergence as France’s principal seaport. Visitors can rent an English audio guide, which details 24 of the museum’s masterpieces, including a partial reproduction of the famous Lascaux cave and Montaigne’s tomb.

One of Bordeaux’s more ancient edifices, this UNESCO World Heritage site features a Romanesque wall from as far back as 1096. It’s also where 13-year-old Eleanor of Aquitaine married her first husband, King Louis VII, in 1137, and where fodder was stored during the French Revolution.

The Roman Catholic church was first constructed in the 11th century, though little of the original structure remains. While the Royal Gate dates to the 13th century, the cathedral that stands today wasn’t built until the 14th and 15th centuries. Visit this Gothic-style masterpiece to admire the exquisite masonry and important art collection, which features everything from paintings and statues to silver objects, ornaments, and liturgical vestments. Then be sure to climb the 160-foot bell tower for some of the best views of the city—and, better still, the church’s famously expressive gargoyles.

St. John is the least developed and most sparsely populated of the three main islands in the U.S. Virgin Islands. That’s not surprising, since more than half its land is protected as a U.S. National Park. Most visitors reach St. John by ferry from St. Thomas, landing at the dock in Cruz Bay, St. John’s main settlement. A village with only a few thousand residents, Cruz Bay has gained a reputation as an upscale retreat for movie stars and other high-profile people looking for a secluded getaway.

It all started back in 1956, when businessman and conservationist Laurance Rockefeller, who had bought extensive land holdings on St. John, opened the low-key but luxurious Caneel Bay Resort. It’s still going strong, and visitors can stop in for lunch and a swim in the beautiful bay. Rockefeller later donated much of his estate to the national park.

Snorkelers should make time for an underwater tour in Trunk Bay, where the National Park Service maintains a submarine snorkeling trail. And no sightseeing drive around the island is complete without a stop to see the fabulous panoramic view from the Bordeaux Mountain Overlook. Back in the town, the boutiques at Mongoose Junction offer one-of-a-kind souvenirs, while Cruz Bay Landing is a perfect spot to grab lunch and drinks.

14th century Château de Roquetaillade is touted as one of Bordeaux’ most visited castles, but don’t let that stop you. I went during high travel season, in August, and it didn’t feel overrun.

Architecturally, it’s an interesting castle to see, because it was carefully restored between 1860 and 1870) by architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc , the same gentleman that worked on the Notre Dame in Paris and was asked to design the inside of the Statue of Liberty.

Taking pictures is only allowed outside, and inside the chapel, so you have to take my word for the fact that the castle’s medieval kitchen is fascinating, and surprisingly modern. It has a center island for cooking, without visible above ground vents. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Another lovely detail inside the castle is a secret message from the original stone masons that worked on the castle. Under one of the columns in the front hall, you can see a carved monkey, eating a fruit. This was a signal to future craftsmen, that they were going to be treated fairly and paid well by the owners of Roquetaillade. Had the monkey scratched his back instead? Maybe not a good place to work!


Call/ or email ahead for information on English speaking tours.

Ask anyone who knows Bordeaux’s food scene where you can get a reliably excellent meal and they’re bound to suggest Le Bouchon Bordelais. Between its warm atmosphere, outdoor seating on a cobblestone street, reasonable prices, and location in the heart of Bordeaux, it’s one of the city’s most popular restaurants. Here, the frequently changing menu is varied and seasonal, ranging from wild shrimp samosas with leeks and watercress cream to marinated apricots with almond mousse. If you can’t decide on a main course, opt for one of the prix fixe menus and try a little bit of everything.