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Where to Eat in Florida, According to a Chef

Born from improvisation, this ever-popular stew has survived a complicated history.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent chef John Currence on 24 hours’ notice to a hot, sweet, sticky country where he followed a trail through the cuisine to the people who make it.

Overview

Wandering Chef: Guillermo Pernot in Cuba

An interview with the band.

The roots of this Mediterranean Revival-style boutique hotel go back to 1914, when a local grocer created the tropically inspired property to house his visiting vendors. Nearly a century later in 2010, hotelier and style guru Liz Lambert added the place to her mini-empire, reviving the grounds that still feature magnolia, palm, and cypress trees planted by the original owner. Set on a quiet section of the River Walk near the museum corridor, the restored building (which is on the National Register of Historic Places) houses 27 guest rooms decorated in a designer-meets-flea market aesthetic, with bright pops of color and plenty of personality. All are pet-friendly, and feature stocked SMEG fridges, Red Flower bath amenities, custom serape bathrobes, and complimentary coffee and Wi-Fi; suites have sitting areas, terraces, or other perks. Room service comes from the in-house Ocho restaurant, but it’s better to head down and eat there in person to take in the cheery setting, river views, pan-Latin menus, and cocktails that highlight rum (as a nod to Havana) and tequila (an homage to San Antonio’s Mexican roots). A regular calendar of happy hours, musical performances, and cultural events round out life at this vibrant hotel.

Miami is a cultural melting pot. Each weekend, various ethic groups gather to celebrate their heritage. Festivals vary by neighborhood, but always include ethnic music, native cuisine and cultural traditions. Miami is known for its rich culture, mostly Cubans who have come to Miami over the last 40 years. Little Havana is the primary neighborhood for Cuban Festivals. Be sure to stop at Calle Ocho for Cuban parties that last through the night.

Calle Ocho or Little Havana is where all things Cuban and Latino come together in Miami. Start your walking tour of Little Havana at Maximo Gomez Park (aka Domino Park). If you play dominoes and have the patience to wait for a spot at a table, you will be in on the hottest game this side of the Florida Straits. Or just watch as all ages face off for hours and hours. Then follow the pink marble of the Calle Ocho Walk of Fame that honors Latin stars such as the Queen of Salsa, Celia Cruz. Stop for tostones (fried plantains) and ropa vieja (shredded beef), or a medianoche, a morning or late-night version of the Cuban sandwich with sweeter, lighter bread. And don’t be afraid to try some chicharrones (fried pork rinds). ¡Buen provecho!

Buda Bar, on the other side of the Havana tunnel in Cabaña, is a meditation center by day and a bumping party by night. Go after 10PM from Friday to Sunday to hear anything but reggaeton, play domino, or get your future told by an Osho card reader underneath the trees. Ask a young local for directions, as the spot is somewhat secret!

The craft beer scene is here in South Florida with the opening of the Miami Brewing Company—the region’s first craft brewery—at Schnebly Redland’s Winery in Homestead. The family-owned operation uses the tropical fruits and flavors of South Florida to make flavorful flagship and seasonal beers, including Big Rod Coconut Blonde Ale, Miami Vice IPA, and Little Havana Cafe con Leche Milk Stout. Stop in at the brewery for a craft beer tasting or pick up a to-go growler.

When traveling to Miami, it’s important to get a taste of the Cuban culture that started this community decades ago. To immerse yourself in Latin music and Cuban tradition, head to Hoy Como Ayer, a high-end Cuban nightclub in Little Havana. The wood-paneled walls are adorned with portraits of music icons like Celia Cruz and Benny More, stained glass and picturesque old Cuban ads. On any given night you might see one of the best musicians and acts in the Latin Music scene. The most popular event Spam Allstars on Thursdays, where you’ll see the house band perform Latin-fusion music on a small stage at the front of the bar. You might even see a Latin celebrity or two hiding in the corners.

For ten days each spring (in early March), The Latino community of Miami celebrates culture, cuisine and entertainment with a vibrant array of beauty pageants, sports, concerts and international foods at Carnaval Miami. There are culinary competitions, galas and an upscale Latin jazz festival. The grand finale is Calle Ocho, a 23-block street festival in Little Havana, which is the largest block party in the world. Over a million watch live entertainment on 30 stages featuring salsa, merengue and Caribbean music. Carnival has been a cultural highlight in Miami for 35 years.

Viernes Culturales is a local Miami event in Little Havana, where restaurants, galleries, clubs and street vendors get together on the last Friday of every month for a cultural art show. Local merchants and artists set up on the streets of Calle Ocho to turn it into what looks like a street fair. The City of Miami sets up an event area in the alley next to the Tower Theater to host DJs, performers, artists and sellers. Sponsors set up booths around here and offer free tastings and gifts. There are many live performances that occur throughout the day and night, but people dance throughout the streets during the entire festival. Many nightclubs serve drinks and vendors give out samples. Be sure to check out the expansive list of restaurants before choosing. I suggest going on a food crawl to really explore the Cuban American culture in Miami.

What was once a pop-up bar, The Broken Shaker is now a permanent fixture at the Freehand Miami. The James Beard Award-nominated bar is located in the high-end hostel on South Beach serving up a selection of handcrafted cocktails. The bar itself is a tiny room by the pool with a 1950s Havana look. You can grab your cocktail—made with elixirs, syrups and infusions using herbs and spices from the onsite garden—and drink it in the bar, or head outside to the pool and nestle into one of the lounge chairs. Away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach, The Broken Shaker offers a more intimate setting than the lavish pools at high-end hotels in the area.