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There aren’t too many opportunities in the Caribbean to ride on horseback to a cave. In Los Haitises National Park, located three hours west of the resorts of Punta Cana, Fun Fun (pronounced “Foon Foon”) Cave is officially known as the largest cave in the Caribbean. Though the cave itself is in the National Park, access to the land goes across a private ranch and requires a guided tour. While the nearly three-hour drive from the resorts of Punta Cana is a lengthy, bumpy, journey into the interior, the scenes from the window provide an authentic glimpse into rural Dominican life. Sugar cane sways, schoolchildren wave, and mangoes drip from the trees. Upon reaching the ranch where you begin the tour you are shimmied into a jumpsuit and saddled onto your horse. A 45-minute ride through the shaded forest brings you to the edge of the National Park. From here it’s another 30 minute walk through sun-swallowing trees until you reach the entrance of Fun Fun Cave. Sliding into a harness and climbing gear, entering the cave requires a 50 ft. repel into a tiny hole which can barely fit your shoulders. Once at the bottom, it’s a one hour slog through the depths of the darkness before reaching the other exit. Inside the cave, stalactites and stalagmites pepper the areas which fall in the beam of your flashlight, and at some areas you are forced to swim through the soothing, subterranean waters. Here, a lone rope helps guide visitors through the hidden recesses of the cave.

This vibrant neighborhood is just north of Wynwood and the Miami Design District and is getting increasing attention from visitors for its independent galleries, street murals, hot restaurants, and cool bars. It’s also a great place to experience a strong Afro-Caribbean culture and tradition. On the third Friday of every month, the Little Haiti Cultural Complex puts on Big Night in Little Haiti, a concert series showcasing local bands, dance troupes, and some of the biggest names in Kreyol music. Although after-parties are held at neighboring establishments, things typically climax with a procession on nearby streets, picking up pedestrians as the night goes along.

Hôtel du Roi Christophe is a small, relaxed boutique hotel, nestled in a lush tropical garden in the midst of humming Cap Haitien. It’s not über–luxurious, but perfectly comfortable, and it attracts travelers and business people alike. There’s a great, comfortable terrace, a good place to hang out and let the day spool past one more time, drink in hand. The central location (ten minutes to the cathedral and Place d’Armes) makes it a perfect starting point for excursions on foot. Speaking of walking and exploring, if you want to get to know Haiti by yourself, Cap Haitien is a safer place to venture out on your own, than Port-au-Prince. ___________________________________ Warmest thanks to my incredible guide Anne-Rose, with Ayiti Tours (http://caribbeantours.info/en/haiti-tours), for her competence and brilliant knowledge of Haiti’s past and present.

“Café con piernas”, or coffee with legs is an institution in downtown Santiago. Founded originally as Italian-style espresso bars decades ago, bar maidens serve steaming cups of frothy “cortados,” pumped out by macho men manning the coffee machine. While many patrons are men who must enjoy the mini-skirts, today, office workers and those running errands stop in to experience this classic coffee--Santiaguino style. There are locales all over the downtown although the largest location is on Paseo Ahumada and Moneda.

The brand new Marriott Port-au-Prince is located 6.5 miles from Port-au-Prince International Airport, in the city’s emerging commercial district, called Haute Tourgeau. On a recent visit, it provided me with a much appreciated retreat from the wild hustle and bustle that defines so much of Haiti. It’s a cool hotel, and it goes beyond the call of duty to be socially responsible. To begin with, a tremendous effort is made to employ locals, and to support Haitian businesses that provide the hotel with products and services. Much to the chagrin of some of the locals, you won’t find a Starbucks in this Marriott’s lobby. Instead, you can sample one of the best, and most likely strongest coffees, you’ll ever had–Haitian Rebo! The public spaces are filled with a well-curated collection of–you guessed it–local art. Philippe Dodard, a renowned Haitian artisan, selected the works. Some of his own pieces made it onto the walls as well, one of the most prominent ones can be seen in the lobby area. The food is great and there are plans to tap more into the Haitian cuisine in the future. Produce is sourced from local farmers, mostly from the Kenscoff area. ___________________ A big thank you to JetBlue (http://www.jetblue.com) for flights to and from Haiti, and of course the Marriott Port-au-Prince (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/papmc-marriott-port-au-prince-hotel/) for accommodations.

Close to the Haitian border on the Dominican Republic’s northwestern coast, this white-sand beach, which is part of Montecristi National Park, sits below an 800-foot-high limestone mesa. Hike a rough stretch through rocks to the beach and you’ll find clear water but strong currents—these waves are not for children, and even excellent swimmers should be very cautious. Shipwrecks from the colonial days draw experienced divers to nearby Isla Cabrita, while empty sands attract Dominican families on weekends. Playa El Morro is almost completely off the tourist radar and all but deserted on weekdays.

Located on a craggy cliff jutting between Meads Bay and Turtle Cove Beach, Malliouhana has views of the glittering aquamarine sea that will hypnotize guests from the moment they arrive to its chic porte cochere. The bright, cerulean open-air lobby with mirrored mosaic-tile flooring tumbles out to a deck where tiered infinity pools are punctuated by ruffled yellow umbrellas, and a cliffside restaurant serves fresh seafood and farm-to-table fare. Built in 1984, this is Anguilla’s original luxury resort, which reopened in December 2018 after a complete restoration following Hurricane Irma. While guests may find it hard to take their eyes off the dazzling Caribbean, the 46-room boutique hotel’s interior design offers its own portal to the sublime with an aesthetic that can best be described as tropical eclectic. Guest rooms are painted sorbet yellow or robin’s-egg blue and feature white lacquer four-poster beds, mural panels by Haitian artist Jasmin Joseph, Venetian glass lamps, and sea-green marble bathroom vanities. All of this somehow swirls together for a look that’s both regal and untamed. Beyond the rooms, guests can look forward to an extended pool deck with fresh cabanas, as well as the Bar Soleil, which offers a prime spot to watch Anguilla’s famous sunsets.

Near the Dominican Republic’s northwestern border with Haiti, the city of Montecristo, and El Morro National Park, this 12-room lodge makes a great base for exploring subtropical forestland and boating through mangroves. Warm woods, neutral tones, and black-and-white photos decorate the lovely understated guestrooms, while comfy loungers and lush greenery surround the bean-shaped pool. Spend your days bird-watching in the national park, deep-sea fishing, kayaking, or snorkeling off the cactus-covered Seven Brothers Island, then head back to the hotel for traditional Dominican dishes at El Morro, wood-fired pizzas at Restaurant Bubí, or drinks at the lobby bar.

Remote and difficult to access, this three-mile beach on the Dominican Republic’s southwestern Caribbean coast (15 miles from Pedernales and close to the Haitian border) is also blissfully uncrowded. Playa Bahia de las Águilas, which translates to “Bay of Eagles,” can only be reached via a four-wheel-drive vehicle on an unpaved road, or a 15-minute speedboat ride from the little village of La Cueva at Cabo Rojo. Once there, however, you’ll discover a pristine beach, bordered by rocky cliffs and free of any hotels or restaurants—the beach is located in the Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, so building is forbidden. Turquoise water laps the white sand, while well-preserved coral reefs wait just offshore. Don your mask and snorkel to see starfish, sand dollars, and maybe even a manatee. Also remember to bring water and sunscreen as there’s virtually no shade, and pack lunch or plan to eat in nearby La Cueva.

It’s as powerful an artistic representation of a country and its people as I’ve ever come across anywhere – Le Negre Marron, or in Creole, Neg Mawon. Translated into English, it’s The Black Maroon. In any language, it’s simply amazing. Commissioned by the Duvalier government to commemorate the landmark slave revolt against France that won Haiti her freedom in 1804, the statue was produced by Haitian sculptor/artist Albert Mangones in the late-1960’s. It’s an extremely moving piece – the left leg extended with a broken shackle at the ankle denoting the hard-fought freedom, a machete in the right hand showing the strength to fight, and the conch shell at the lips harkening to the old and oft-used method of alerting the masses. What makes the statue even more significant today is the fact that it survived the devastating earthquake of January 2010 completely intact. Even as major buildings like the National Palace crumbled all around it, Le Neg Mawon stood firm, resilient in the face of tragedy much like the people of Haiti have for hundreds of years. Le Neg Mawon is located in downtown Port-au-Prince, just a few short blocks from the Marriott Port-au-Prince, the country’s newest and most modern hotel.

College-town hiking aficionados usually know where to eat, so when the guys up the street at Babbitts Backcountry Outfitters told me this was one of the best places in town for weekend brunch, I went. A lunch-and-dinner place during the week, Criollo Latin Kitchen opens up on weekend mornings with offerings from blue corn pancakes to pork belly tacos, with poblano cheddar grits, sweet ancho chili sausage gravy, and Haitian ‘ti-malice'-inspired relish to go with eggs over easy. And along with the artists’ paintings that change monthly, the food is “local” as well—the menu and the chalkboard on the wall will let you know the ranches and farms in Arizona and Colorado that are the sources for Criollo’s organic ingredients. On this particular morning, I had the “huevos motuleños,” the Yucatán’s version of “huevos rancheros.” And get some bacon—it’s hearty, comes from Black Mesa Ranch in the White Mountains, and will make you want to bring the word “toothsome” back into popular usage. Even if you’re just passing through Flagstaff on your way to the Grand Canyon, or driving from Albuquerque to Los Angeles, Criollo is worth a stop. It’s just a block north of historic old Route 66 downtown. (Criollo is owned by the same folks who opened the nationally-renown “Brix” just up the street—Flagstaff is becoming a restaurant mecca—and its newest sister restaurant is “Proper,” way down the road in Tucson. “Taco Tuesday” evenings with inexpensive margaritas can be crowded.)

The Bridges of Samaná, also called the “Bridges to Nowhere,” are a string of bridges connecting the small islands that stretch across the outside of Samaná harbor. They are remnants from a project in the 1960s and ’70s by President Joaquín Balaguer to build a restaurant on one of the islands, connected to the mainland by a pedestrian bridge. The restaurant never opened, but the bridges and the shell of the building remain as curious relics of recent history.

Set stoically atop a handsome steed, the statue of Jean-Jacques Desalines bears every bit the exalted “Father Of A Nation” status you’d expect from the only person to have a holiday celebrated in his honor in Haiti. The statue is the centerpiece of a collection of memorials honoring Haiti’s heroes set in the Le Champs de Mars area of downtown Port-au-Prince. Here, big, broad boulevards intersect among a series of squares, parks, and wide open spaces, each bearing statues of Haiti’s legendary statesmen creating what’s easily the most impressive public space I’ve come across along my Caribbean travels. I got to tour around Champs de Mars on my last visit to Haiti in early-December 2017 while staying at the Marriott Port-au-Prince. Haiti’s newest and nicest hotel sits just a few blocks from the area, though walking to Champs de Mars from the Marriott isn’t advisable. What little sidewalk space exists between the two is jammed with locals selling all manner of goods along the road. There’s really just no room to walk until you get to Champs de Mars. Take a taxi then enjoy the sights, history, and local art for sale all throughout the various squares and parks.

Antonio de Montesinos held it down in the New World and defended the rights of the indegenous people. He was truly ahead of his time. This statue located in Santo Domingo’s colonial section is dear to my heart. I used to go play and ride my bike there all the time. The stone and bronze statue was a gift from Mexico and was made by artist Antonio Castellanos in 1982, a year before my birth. Below is Montecino’s famous quote, which as you could imagine enraged the Spanish King and all of the aristocracy at the time. #Legendary. “Tell me by what right of justice do you hold these Indians in such a cruel and horrible servitude? On what authority have you waged such detestable wars against these people who dealt quietly and peacefully on their own lands? Wars in which you have destroyed such an infinite number of them by homicides and slaughters never heard of before. Why do you keep them so oppressed and exhausted, without giving them enough to eat or curing them of the sicknesses they incur from the excessive labor you give them, and they die, or rather you kill them, in order to extract and acquire gold every day.”

You know when the elegant maître d’ greets you at the door like a VIP—even if you’re not—that you’re in a first-rate Italian restaurant. Owned and operated by Italians, Otto is located in a restored heritage building, and its decor is a fusion of black glass, polished metal, and oak. The service is excellent (not always a given in Singapore) and the wine list is, too; but you’ll remember the food most of all. The mushroom-and-rosemary risotto is delicious, and so is the homemade walnut-and-ricotta tortelli with spinach velouté sauce. Savor the crispy suckling pig lacquered with honey, or the Hokkaido scallops carpaccio. Whatever your main dishes, dessert is a must. And not just the tiramisu and crème brûlée; the warm chocolate cake with Haitian vanilla ice cream and the mango-and-passion-fruit millefoglie with peach coulis are divine.