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The UAE is one of the most multicultural countries in the world and its largest city Dubai the most cosmopolitan. Indians make up one of the largest population groups and have a long history in Dubai dating to its early years as a tiny trading port when most Indians arrived as merchants. My Indian friends in the UAE always swore Dubai had the most authentic Indian food outside India and after 8 years eating it there I can assure you they weren’t exaggerating. It was my go-to for take-away, the food being so good and so cheap there was no reason to cook it at home. My favorite Indian eateries weren’t in hotels but on gritty backstreets in my old Bur Dubai neighborhood -- an area few tourists explore after they’ve done the sights and shopped the souqs. Farida Ahmed, sister of Arva Ahmed, who started Frying Pan Adventures, Dubai’s first culinary walking tours, runs a mouthwatering foodie tour of the Meena Bazaar area, Dubai’s Little India. During the four-hour foodie walk, which will take you through the bustling area, bursting with Bollywood CD and DVD shops, cheap electronics stores, textile shops, and an abundance of simple family-owned eateries, you’ll try everything from fried street food snacks, such as samosas, and piping hot Indian naan breads to Dubai’s best chicken tikka and spice-infused drinks. As with Arva’s Middle Eastern food tour, during the balmy winter months Farida leads you on foot and during the sultrier period uses an air-conditioned car. A must.

The most luxurious way to experience Dubai’s desert may smash an entire holiday budget, but a stay in the Bedouin-inspired tented suites at Al Maha might well be worth it. It’s one of the best places to see desert conservation in action: Al Maha is in the heart of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, home to the UAE’s largest free-roaming herd of Arabian oryx, a species brought back from extinction in the wild through rehabilitation initiatives. Guests should keep their eyes peeled for gazelles, too—300 Arabian and 100 sand gazelles inhabit the dunes, and the more inquisitive ones often come right up to the 42 tented accommodations. Water recycling, biodiesel, and solar panels all contribute to Al Maha’s efforts to tread lightly on the fragile desert ecosystem.

For an unusual wildlife experience, take a day trip to Al Ain’s Camel Market, one of the last remaining in the U.A.E. Watch livestock traders and merchants drive hard bargains and haggle mercilessly. It’s an excellent photo opportunity, but be respectful and ask permission before photographing any people. The Camel Market is open until sunset daily, but most trade takes place in the morning. Al Ain is about two hours by car from Abu Dhabi proper, with the camel market a few miles from town. Norbert Heidenbluth/Flickr.

When the swell is up and the waves are high, Sunset Beach is Surf City, UAE. Count on left-breaking waves at the Jebel Ali end and right-breaking waves at the northern tip of the beach. In between, expect a busy beach full of tourists, locals, and expats soaking up the sun. Palace Beach offers easy access to the waterways of the Palm Jumeirah (perfect for kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders), a glimpse of the great sail of a building that is the Burj Al Arab in the distance, sugary white sand between the toes, and crystalline water all the way to the horizon. If you forgot your water-sports equipment at home, Club Joumana at the sprawling JA Jebel Ali Beach Resort rents it all—from Zapcat inflatable racing boats to paddleboards.

One&Only Royal Mirage, the calmest and most elegant of Dubai’s mainland beach resorts, consists of three Arabian-styled palace hotels set amid a lush, 65-acre palm garden fronted by a three-quarter-mile white-sand beach. The Palace, the oldest and largest hotel, still has the feeling of an intimate escape despite the past decade’s frenetic high-rise construction along the coastal highway. The Arabian Court draws local couples and, in winter, sheikhs who take trained falcons to tea in the lobby. The most exclusive joint, the Residence, is closest to the spa where guests indulge in massage-themed vacations. All rooms share a French-Moroccan decor and courteous staff who continually offer fruit skewers, cold towels, and drinks around four of the U.A.E’s most beautiful outdoor pools.

No matter where you are staying in the UAE, you can’t leave without visiting the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. The mosque, the third-largest in the world, is the final resting place of Sheikh Zayed, the nation’s founder. Even on the hottest summer day, the white marble floors—inlaid with mosaic flowers and vines—remain cool underfoot, and the scale of the space will impress even the most casual observer: The main hall can hold about 7,000 people. Take a tour and learn about the iconography of the intricate tiles and mosaics. Marvel at the huge rug that covers the floor in the main worship space; it’s the largest handmade rug in the world. If you happen to be visiting during Ramadan, you could consider joining one of the community iftar dinners, which sometimes serve as many as a thousand people in an evening.

The Camel Racing Festival is free and open to the public, and celebrates a sport that has deep cultural roots in the region. Much like the city itself, the current festival has a modern twist (as you can see): robot-jockey-mounted camels gallop toward the finish line during Dubai‘s Camel Racing Festival.

Tucked behind Sheikh Zayed Road and its imposing skyscrapers, Al Satwa is a low-tech hot spot for all your tailoring needs: Patch up an old skirt, tailor a designer dress, or get fitted for a custom-made Indian sari. The textile stores here offer rainbows of colors and materials at affordable prices, and their staff will happily recommend tailors nearby. Dubbed Little Manila by locals, Al Satwa is also home to a Filipino supermarket, where you can buy kabocha squash and banana blossoms. Cap off your visit with a stroll through Al Satwa’s 2nd December Street, named to commemorate UAE’s National Day, with many works of art celebrating Emirati national culture.

Clean, refreshing, full of light, and a shopper’s dream, Yas Mall is the newest of Abu Dhabi’s malls, set on Yas Island—where fast cars, a fast roller coaster, and mega-yachts arrive and depart regularly while shoppers enjoy fashion, food, and entertainment at the mall. High-end shops have a place in the massive new development, along with nearly every shop imaginable, from a LEGO store to West Elm. With an open atrium that allows you to imagine you’re outdoors, the Mall is a wonderful place to seek cool refuge from hot summers in the UAE.

When it opened in December 1999, the Burj al Arab—a sail-shaped, all-suite skyscraper hotel built on an artificial island—put Dubai on the map as an over-the-top travel destination and became a landmark. Even today, the Burj al Arab sets the standard for outsized luxury with Rolls-Royce airport pickups, a helipad, gold-plated iPads, and butler-serviced duplex suites equipped with beds with mirrored ceilings, double Jacuzzi bathtubs, and full-size Hermès toiletries. The cool architectural exterior conceals a vivid interior with acres of gold leaf, dancing fountains, and room decor so distractingly jazzy that it may make guests feel as though they’ve drunk the world’s largest cup of Arabic coffee. (This is not the place for admirers of subtlety or minimalism.) The Terrace, an ambitious project even by Dubai standards, added nearly 2.5 acres of cabana, beach, pool, and restaurant space to the resort in 2016. Come sunset, though, the place to be is the 27th-floor Skyview bar.

Whether you want to explore the stretch of sand dunes 40 minutes outside of Dubai or visit the largest expanse of uninhabited desert in the world, known as the Empty Quarter, a desert safari is the way to do it. There are any number of tour companies that will set you up for the adventure, which usually includes exhilarating (sometimes terrifying) dune-bashing rides, in which you’ll slide up and down the dunes in a 4x4; an Emirati-style supper under the stars; and, of course, a camel ride. Platinum Heritage can tailor its outings to the needs of your particular group.

Admit it; you’re curious. A ski hill in the middle of the desert, on the Persian Gulf, no less, is as wild an idea as humankind has ever concocted—but isn’t dreaming big what Dubai is all about? The slopes at Ski Dubai are no substitute for Jackson Hole or Vail, of course, but then again, they’re not supposed to be. You go simply for the experience of leaving a housewares shop, sauntering down the hall, and hitting the slopes. All the gear required can be rented at Ski Dubai: They even have long overcoats for women in abayas. You can ski or sled, roll down the hill in inflatable plastic balls, frolic with penguins, or even just ride the chairlifts back and forth. When you’re finished skiing, you can head back into the mall for a meal or a movie. You know, just another day in Dubai.

To truly get away from it all, spend a night or two at Qasr al Sarab. The resort lies on the edge of the Empty Quarter that stretches deep past the Saudi Arabian border with the UAE in endless sand dunes. The resort is fairly self-contained along an arc of oasis. Activities range from camel riding and walks in the dunes to fine dining and spa treatments. Be prepared for a couple hours’ drive from the City of Abu Dhabi, but the spectacular views and quiet resort atmosphere are worth every second.

I’ve heard there is a nice shawarma stand at the top of Jebel Hafeet to go along with the view, but on my trip up the mountain, it was so busy with Eid celebrations, that I had to drive straight down again without finding any parking! On the United Arab Emirates border with Oman, just outside the city of Al Ain in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi, are a series of jagged rocky hills. One such outcropping is Jebel Hafeet - the highest point in the UAE. The 1,249-meter mountain is a popular place to visit, barbecue, or just enjoy the scenery. A nicely paved road to the top is quite fun to negotiate by car. The mountain road is also a challenge for bicyclists who can climb the curves, switchbacks, and steep incline. Hikers, too, can find a route or two up the mountain. For those wanting to spend the night, the Mercure Grand Jebel Hafeet Al Ain Hotel provides a comfortable four-star environment where you can be close to the stars at night and the sunrise at dawn.

Starting out as one of the United Arab Emirates’ first food trucks, Meylas is no longer so much about grabbing a quick bite of local culture on the go, as it is about experiencing the traditional flavours in a small cafe decorated like a “canteen” from a bygone era. You will feel like you’re at the start of the modern development in the UAE. Dallah (traditional coffee pots), henna, shopping bags, postcards, and children’s games are on display and for sale if you choose to take a bit of that culture home with you.


Of course, the food and hospitality is at the center of attention. Locally sourced ingredients contribute to chbaab, a pancake served with date syrup and salonat badu, the traditional bedouin stew made with chicken or lamb. At the end of the meal, you’ll find several sweets like khabees that are spiced with cardamom and saffron or legeimat, which reminds me of a donut hole sweetened with dates syrup and topped with sesame seeds. Coffees and teas are prepared the way they used to be and should not be passed up at the end of the meal while you mull over the days events. I recommend ordering a smattering of anything that looks interesting off the menu to share.