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by Fabrizia Lanza Within the Palace of the Normans, there’s a chapel of the kings. “It’s sumptuous,” Fabrizia says, “all covered with mosaics. It’s like getting inside a golden box of jewelry.” Piazza del Parlamento 1 This story appeared in the January/February 2011 issue.

In the area of the Norman palace, near the market, there are still some little medieval botteghe (shops) below the level of the palace. Via dei Biscottari is where they used to make the pastries and cookies for the king. There is one shop I love to visit where they still make the shells for cannoli by hand. Sicilians love cannoli, of course, filled with fresh ricotta. We have an intense sweet tooth. Via dei Biscottari near Via Saladino

This super-exclusive private club opened recently in the chic Palermo Soho district. Members or friends of members can go to the garden bar for poolside drinks. It’s all the buzz in Buenos Aires. 54/(11) 4832-5276.

Spend a day strolling the medieval streets of Cefalù, an idyllic coastal resort town about an hour’s drive east of Palermo. The Norman-era Cefalù Cathedral towers above honey-colored stone houses; a rocky promontory known as La Rocca forms a dramatic backdrop to it all. Step inside the cathedral to see its beautiful mosaics, then get in some souvenir shopping or relax at a café and just people-watch.

This small, chic hotel came into being after an Argentine PR director and her English record producer husband couldn’t find the perfect place for their visiting guests to stay during their Buenos Aires wedding. They needed a place with a bar, a spa, a nice pool, good cocktails in a friendly environment—and so in 2005 they opened Home, one of the pioneer boutique properties in Palermo Hollywood. Strategically located within blocks of much of the city’s nightlife, Home has become something of a base for those coming to the city looking to indulge in it.

Generally though, Home’s reputation is quite positive. Few modern design elements have been left out, from Knoll furniture and vintage wallpaper to the Chilean wool rugs and tech-friendly amenities like iPod-ready stereos and LCD TVs. A spacious walled garden area is the focal point of the property, holding the heated swimming pool plus deck chairs and ferns, alongside a bar and restaurant.

For serious wine enthusiasts, this is the closed-door dining experience of choice. On Wednesday through Saturday at at Casa Coupage, a pair of sommeliers serve a seasonal tasting menu with wine pairings to nine tables inside their elegant Palermo apartment. In this intimate environment, dinner doubles as an informal wine course - the sommelier talks you through everything you taste, discussing the grape, terroir and winemaker, answering your questions, even helping you choose a few bottles to take home with you.

With a smart and simple chalkboard menu of cheese plates, salads, sandwiches made with homemade bread, good coffee, and Argentinian wines by the glass, Pain et Vin is a lovely venue for lunch or an afternoon glass of Malbec rosado. The Palermo Soho eatery doubles as a tasting space and shop: look for Friday evening events open to the public, or stop by to choose from the excellent selection of boutique wines to take on a picnic to the park.

With its innumerable acres of grasslands that are perfect for raising cattle, Argentina is not surprisingly known for top-quality leather goods. Murillo Street, in the Villa Crespo neighborhood, is lined with outlets where you can purchase bags, shoes, jackets, and belts at discount prices. For higher-end leather, however, Palermo boutiques are your best bet. Near Plaza Armenia in Palermo Soho, Humawaca showcases stunningly unique handmade purses and accessories. For men’s shoes, belts, and wallets—all of spectacular quality and sure to make any guy a touch more dapper—stop by Apuesto Hombre in Palermo Hollywood.

The Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri, also called Steri Castle, was built in 1307 by Sicily’s powerful Chiaramonte family. Manfredi Chiaramonte later added the elaborate Hall of the Barons, whose wooden ceiling is blanketed with murals. Starting in 1601, the castle was a base for the Spanish Inquisition for 180 years. A tour of the prison cells offers a look at haunting graffiti carved into the walls by those wrongly imprisoned and tortured here.

In 1910, Argentina received a wave of Armenian immigrants fleeing genocide. Many of the new residents settled in Palermo Soho, and several good restaurants emerged. For something a little special on Friday and Saturday nights, the community hosts a cultural and culinary experience that includes dinner and a show, the proceeds of which allow Armenian teens to visit their historical homeland. Food is served in the school cafeteria, and students wait tables as moms and grandmothers send out delicious, authentic delights. Music and dance, courtesy of the young waitstaff, also lend a lively, festive atmosphere to the entire proceedings.

The resort town of Mondello, just a short drive from Palermo, is a popular escape for visitors and Sicilians alike. Cerulean waters lap a beach of soft white sand. Visitors staying in nearby villas spend much of their time relaxing on the beach, with occasional breaks for arancini and panelle bought from street vendors. For a serious meal, stroll down the pier to the Charleston, a landmark restaurant and bar in an Art Nouveau building over the water.

Beef is everywhere in Buenos Aires, but there are a few parrillas in town that stand above the rest for quality. Within that category, La Cabrera offers a unique experience. Yes, the focus is on the meat, but the sides almost steal the show—surprising vegetable dishes accompany each entrée, and in sharable portions. It’s typically packed with locals and tourists alike, so expect long waits any night of the week. That said, for those who can live with dinner earlier than Argentina’s customary 9 p.m. or later, La Cabrera offers an early seating they call “happy hour” that’s wait-free and includes a 40 percent discount on all menu items.

Why we love it: A five-star resort unlike anything else on the Jersey Shore

The Highlights:
- Private terraces in every room with views of the ocean or sand dunes
- Top-notch service from pool attendants and the staff at large
- A rooftop pool that feels more like Miami than New Jersey

The Review:
From real estate developer iStar, designer Anda Andrei, and hotelier David Bowd of Salt Hotels comes this five-star resort—the first of its kind on the Jersey Shore. Located on the fourth floor of a mixed-use luxury development, the 54-room property sits right off the boardwalk, offering endless views of the Atlantic Ocean. Rooms take advantage of the vistas with floor-to-ceiling windows, a muted palette, and private terraces that look out onto either the water or the hotel’s sand-dune garden, while spacious bathrooms feature glass-enclosed showers and handpicked amenities like conditioner from MiN and soaps from Palermo Body.

As inviting as the guestrooms may be, however, it’s the hotel’s common spaces that truly impress. The pool deck and garden terrace blend seamlessly into the ocean beyond, creating a serene oasis just four stories above the beach. Here, guests sunbathe on loungers and daybeds or relax in tree-shaded seating areas while pool attendants mill about, offering to clean their sunglasses, spritz them with cool water, or bring them a drink from the pergola-covered bar in the corner. Should they wish to hit the sand, a personal “Beach Bellperson” will set up their towels, chairs, and umbrellas and deliver lunch whenever they get hungry.

When the weather gets too hot—or too cold, as AOC is a year-round hotel—guests can repair to the Drawing Room, which sits at the heart of the property. A glass house that floats on a tranquil reflecting pool, the space is designed to feel like a living room, with eclectic furniture, a green-tiled fireplace, an open kitchen that doubles as a bar, and live piano music several nights a week. Come 2020, there will also be a fine-dining restaurant on site, where guests can indulge before sweating it out at the Technogym-equipped fitness center or a morning yoga session on the pool deck.

Mount Pellegrino, which towers over the coast between Palermo and the beach of Mondello, is a popular day excursion from Palermo. The panoramic view from the top is breathtaking. And while you’re up there you can visit the sanctuary of Santa Rosalia, who is believed to have saved Palermo from a plague in the 1600s. She lived in a cave on the mountain until her death around 1160, and more than four centuries later hunters found remains that were thought to be hers. The plague in Palermo ended, it was believed, because her bones were finally given a proper Christian burial. This shrine was built around her cave to protect the site, and Santa Rosalia was named the patron saint of Palermo.

Take a break from the city’s frenetic energy with a visit to the Palermo Botanical Garden, just south of the port next to Villa Giulia Park. Established in 1786, the 10-hectare (25-acre) gardens contain plants from around the world: Southeast Asian palms, coffee and papaya trees, even cotton plants and sugarcane. A terraced pond blooms with lotus and water lilies, while the ruins of the 14th-century Church of Saint Dennis can be found amid the greenery.