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A narrow strip of land divides the northern Atlantic and southern Caribbean sides of Frigate Bay, making it easy to walk from one section to the other. Many visitors do just that, as hotels like the St. Kitts Marriott Resort and Sugar Bay Club are on the north side, while the beach bars of The Strip sit on the south side. The sand and scenery around the resorts is better, but the nightlife on South Frigate Bay is among the island’s best.

Located just a short walk from the Four Seasons Resort on Pinney’s Beach, the colorful Sunshine’s Beach Bar gets its name not just from its brilliant surroundings but also from its proprietor, Llewellyn “Sunshine” Caines. A popular lunch spot with both locals and tourists, Sunshine’s offers better-than-beach-bar food—you really can’t go wrong with the barbecue ribs or the grilled lobster in garlic butter. The bar’s most famous item, however, is the seriously potent Killer Bee rum punch. Just know that one is more than enough in the hot Nevis sun.

After opening in 2014, it didn’t take SALT Plage long to start appearing on lists of the world’s best beachfront restaurants. At the Christophe Harbour dining destination, guests gather on a palm-shaded deck overlooking White House Bay for craft cocktails and Caribbean fare, served from a corrugated steel bar that manages, like the menu, to project both a casual and sophisticated vibe. Live music and full-moon parties make this the place to be for sunset and beyond.

In the 17th century, the British and French were fierce rivals for control of St. Kitts. The only thing that eventually brought them together was the existential threat of an attack by the island’s native Carib inhabitants—a fear so real that, in 1626, a joint force of British and French soldiers cornered and massacred more than 2,000 Caribs at what came to be known as Bloody Point. Today, guests can visit the historic site by hiking along the river—which was said to have run red for three days after the slaughter—from the village of Challengers through Stone Fort Canyon, where they can also find 100 petroglyphs carved into the rocks.

One of the perks of staying at the St. Kitts Marriott Resort is the opportunity to test your skills at the Royal St. Kitts Golf Club, an 18-hole, par 71 course laid out along the island’s Caribbean coast. If you’re not a Marriott guest, however, head to the Irie Fields Golf Course at Kittitian Hill, where organic farms fringe the fairways. Designed by World Golf Hall of Famer Ian Woosnam, the course is maintained without pesticides or chemicals—if you see a herd of sheep grazing on the back nine, let them play through.

Shipwreck is a classic Caribbean beach bar with umbrellas (in both the sand and the drinks), snorkeling off the shore, and live music on Sundays from “4ish to 6ish.” Don’t miss the fish tacos, claimed to be the best you’ll ever taste. And bring your phone—the photo to get is one of the local monkeys that frequent the beach.

With 394 rooms, there’s nothing understated about St. Kitts Marriott Resort. What it lacks in intimacy, however, the hotel makes up for in fun amenities, like umbrella-shaded chaises perched on the golden sands of North Frigate Beach, and a meandering pool that resembles a lazy river. On the grounds you’ll also find an 18-hole championship golf course, volleyball nets on the beach, and a 15,000-square-foot spa that uses local botanicals like jasmine and frangipani in its treatments. When you need to get out of the sun, there are eight restaurants serving local specialties and global favorites, as well as a lively casino.

A combination of train and bus, this three-hour tour weaves a fascinating route past some of the island’s most historic sights. Constructed from 1912 to 1926, the rail system originally carried sugar from St. Kitts’ estates to the factory in Basseterre, but today serves as a fun tourist attraction. Visitors ride in double-decker cars—the lower is air-conditioned, the upper open-air—past black-sand beaches, old plantations, and sugarcane fields, and then up a portion of Mount Liamuiga.

Local is the ethos at The Craft House. Commissioned by the government in 1982, the store offers a dizzying array of hand-crafted products, though the dolls, straw work, pottery, and leather goods are the best bets. No matter what you choose, you can rest assured that you’ve purchased an authentic souvenir—everything here is made on the island by artists who trained in the store’s educational program.

This being a former English colony, St. Kitts is centered around the Circus, a small roundabout modeled after London’s famed Piccadilly and set in the middle of buzzy Basseterre. Preserved Georgian-style buildings line its edges, while the Berkeley Memorial stands in the middle. Built in 1883 to honor a local legislator and landowner, the memorial features an imposing green clock with four faces, each looking out toward one of the city’s main streets.

Some zip line parks are one-and-done—you arrive, sit for orientation, take a single (if exhilarating) ride, and get back in the car. Not so at Sky Safari, located at St. Kitts’ Wingfield Estate. Here, you start with a training run on a short zip line, then head into the jungle for the main attractions: four more lines that run over the lush canopy of slumbering stratovolcano Mount Liamuiga. The first three lines, named The Boss, Mango Tango, and Brimstone Blast, measure up to 1,400 feet long, while the fourth is a dual zip line that crosses over a river and ends near the ruins of a historic sugar plantation. As you soar, you’ll reach heights of 250 feet and thrilling speeds of up to 40 miles per hour.

Marina Village in Christophe Harbour features a small collection of galleries and boutiques perfect for finding a unique souvenir. DALE Original Art & Style offers local artwork, pottery, clothing, and jewelry, while Joya St. Kitts sells bohemian dresses from Camilla, resort wear by Vanita Rosa of St. Barths, and colorful creations by the Wayuu tribe of South America. You’ll also find Mediterranean-inspired fashion at Totally Bananas Boutique, sportswear and equipment at Ballast Bay Outfitters, delicious espresso at Peppe’s Coffee Kiosk, and a range of fresh, artisan breads at Sugar & Salt Gourmet Market.

Dieppe Bay is ringed by black sand—a reminder that St. Kitts was formed by volcanoes. It’s also the site of the first European settlement in the eastern Caribbean, a French colony established in 1538 that was destroyed by the Spanish just two weeks after its founding. Beyond its historic significance, however, Dieppe Bay is simply a peaceful, palm-lined beach on the north end of the island. An offshore reef keeps the water calm for swimming and snorkeling, and Arthur’s restaurant is nearby for when you’re craving some fresh fish and vegetables.

To say St. George’s has a rough past is an understatement. It was christened as Notre Dame Catholic Church in 1670 by French Jesuits, then burned down by the English, who rebuilt it as St. George’s Anglican Church in the early 18th century. Over the next two centuries, the church sustained two more fires, plus multiple earthquakes and hurricanes. Like Lazarus, however, it couldn’t be kept down—it was rebuilt time and time again, most recently after being damaged by Hurricane Hugo in 1989. Today, guests can visit to learn more about the church’s fascinating history, climb the bell tower, or even attend services.

It’s easy to miss Garza Marfa’s showroom on a brief visit, because it is located a few blocks off the beaten path. Usually open by appointment (call (432) 729-1946 or email [email protected]), and sometimes–in typical Marfa fashion–just randomly open, it is a space that is definitely worth checking out.

Jamey and Constance are the husband and wife team behind the vibrant furniture line; pillows, blankets and home wares. Their interpretation of ‘Midcentury Modern meets Wild West’ will put a smile on your face and probably make you wish you’d taken an empty truck to Marfa with you to fill up. Their colorful pieces can be hard to find outside of Marfa, except for a limited selection at the Heath Showrooms in San Francisco and LA.

>>>Warmest thanks to the awesome team at El Cosmico for another unforgettable Trans Pecos Festival of Music and Love–an annual gathering of friends, music, art, camping, sandlot baseball and a night sky full of stars in Marfa, Texas. Love you guys.