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The Mongol Rally: Charlie Grosso’s Down-and-Dirty Ride

On a crowded bus trip in Mongolia, one traveler learns how to sit back and enjoy the ride.

Overview

Albert Kahn’s photographic archive is a mesmerizing record of human history.

How creativity and commerce have transformed a city of business into the world’s newest art capital.

From the mountains of Iran and the backstreets of Yogyakarta to war-torn Addis Ababa and a hillside roost in Taiwan, this is the riveting story of a wanderer whose thirst for travel was never-ending.

In Scotland, a writer disconnects from civilization and discovers something much more. . . civilized.

This couple created their own little house on the highway. Here’s what they learned from the experience.

Every culture seems to have its own ways of making wishes and prayers. I’ve tossed many a coin into many a fountain and blown out many a candle on a cake. In Mongolia, the tradition revolves around the ovoo, a large stone cairn. Ovoos serve mainly as religious sites, used in worship of the mountains and the sky as well as in Buddhist ceremonies. They are also used as landmarks – important on the Mongolian steppes where there are few paved roads, let alone street signs! The tradition for travelers is to walk around the ovoo three times, in a clockwise direction to wish for a safe journey. Three rocks are picked up from the ground and added to the pile each time you circle around the mound. Ovoos will have tree branch or stick in the middle. Worshippers tie a blue khadag, a ceremonial silk scarf that is commonly white in color in northern Buddhist cultures, to the branch. Some of the cairns were large enough that we could actually drive around them and others were far away enough from the road that all we did was honk the horn three times. Apparently, honking the horn is acceptable if you don’t feel like getting out of the car. I’m not superstitious but who doesn’t want to wish for a safe journey so I took every opportunity that I could to walk around the ovoo. Besides, it was really interesting to see them up close. It’s not uncommon for worshippers to leave items behind like animal skulls, bones, and utensils. I even saw bottles of vodka and a crutch!

As ubiquitous as “mandu” (dumplings) may be in Korea, when in Seoul, seek out their Mongolian lamb-filled ‘ancestors.’ One theory says that meat-filled dumplings were introduced to the Korean peninsula during the Mongol invasions of the 14th century. If that’s the case, then “buuz” (Mongolian dumplings) have made a comeback in the 21st century. In recent decades, tens of thousands of Mongolians have immigrated to South Korea, and the neighborhood just to the west of the new Zaha-Hadid-designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza has become home to a Central Asian village. Seek out the Cyrillic lettering and look for “Ulaan Baatar” restaurant, on the second floor of an otherwise nondescript building in an alleyway. A plateful of “buuz” would make a hearty meal, but it’s best shared. Hand-cut noodles, al dente, stir-fried with carrots and mutton are another option. If you want a break from the seemingly non-stop chile-garlic-soy palette of Korean food, but still want a ‘local’ flavor, this is your fatty chance. My wife and I were the only non-Mongolians when we had lunch here. We followed the example of the other diners and ordered salty milk tea to go with our food. I couldn’t bring myself to dunk my dumplings in it, though, as everyone else was doing. (Beer and Fanta are also available.) By subway: at “Dongdaemun History and Culture Park” station, take exit 12, walk west and turn left at the next corner; look for the 10-story building with cyrillic lettering on your right.

The Butcher Shop in Wynwood is a concept that blends retail, restaurant, and biergarten into a top-notch venue selling and serving quality meats, sausages, and burgers. They have the best craft beer selection in Miami, with 15 permanent taps, a rotating draft lift, and varying styles from IPA to saison to hefeweizen. Bar snacks range from German pretzels to Mongolian duck wings. This is a chance to enjoy a night out trying something new in a relaxed spot.

Don a headset, approach an exhibit, and wirelessly listen to African thumb piano or Mongolian throat singing at the vast Musical Instrument Museum. Besides browsing some 15,000 artifacts that represent different musical genres, visitors can catch a concert, take a drumming class, or recharge at the café, which serves global fare made from local products.

This landmark hotel, built in the Swiss rustic style popular at the turn of the 19th century, has hosted Winston Churchill, Arturo Toscanini, Albert Einstein, the Shah of Iran, Henry Kissinger, and the Rolling Stones, among others. Situated high above Zurich, with a sweeping forest and a golf course for company, it offers breathtaking views of the city, the lake, and even—on clear days—the Alps.

Renovated in 2008 by Lord Foster for a cool 385 million Swiss francs, it now features a bold, contemporary edifice that wraps around the turreted original, two entirely new wings (the Spa Wing and the Golf Wing), and a completely revamped interior. While the rooms in the Main Building (the historic structure) are appointed with traditional furniture and hand-painted wallpaper to give a regal, turn-of-the-century feel, the newer rooms are equipped with balconies and bathrooms of white marble or sand-colored Jura limestone. Imagined by London-based United Designers, they also come with flat-screen televisions with integrated Bang & Olufsen CD and DVD players.

The four signature suites sprawl over hundreds of square meters and feature steam showers, whirlpool baths, and even (in one case) a grand piano. The hotel also offers an expansive spa and wellness center.

Sinseon Seolleongtang is a local chain that specializes in seolleongtang soup, a milky broth that gets its subtle, soothing flavor from simmered ox bone. When combined with tender beef brisket and sliced green onions, the soup is the ultimate comfort food. The origins of seolleongtang are in dispute—some believe it evolved from the boiled beef with scallions dish eaten by ancient Mongolian invaders, while others argue it came from an 11th-century king, Seonjong, who, after sacrificing a cow, wanted to feed a large number of subjects with the least possible ingredients. Either way, the 24-hour Sinseon has remained a go-to since 1981 for locals seeking a satisfying breakfast, lunch, dinner, or hangover meal.

Austrian painter Christiane Ritter reluctantly followed her hunter husband to Svalbard in 1933, a time when much less was known about the far north than today. Five years later, her memoir, A Woman in the Polar Night, did the same job of informing people about the realities of arctic life that Marco Polo did for the Silk Road and Mongolia. Located at the mouth of the Liefdefd Fjord, Gråhuken Mountain plays a starring role in the novel as the location for the couple’s tarpaulin-covered hut, more than 97 kilometers (60 miles) away from the next human—and the place where Ritter gradually learns to love the isolation and harsh yet inspiring environment.